Passenger window stuck cracked
Passenger window stuck cracked
Hey everyone I bought a g37s a few weeks ago but the passenger window is stuck cracked open. The window motor has been replaced to no avail. My next thought would be the actuator as the window seems to be stuck in the position it would need to be in for the window to clear the door jam when opened. I have also tried the window reset procedure and that didn’t work. If anyone else has experienced this problem I would appreciate your thoughts thanks!
Last edited by trmoore777; May 16, 2021 at 08:35 AM.
1) Any warning lights on the gauge cluster, for example: "Door Open?"
2) When you open/close the (pass) door, does the window "try" to do anything AND does any warning come up on the cluster?
3) Does the AUTO UP/DOWN function work at all?
2) When you open/close the (pass) door, does the window "try" to do anything AND does any warning come up on the cluster?
3) Does the AUTO UP/DOWN function work at all?
1) There are no constant warning lights but when the door is open I do get the usual door open warning.
2) The window hasn’t tried to do anything since I bought it door open or closed
3) The auto function does not work at all for drivers window
4) Thanks for your reply!
1) There are no constant warning lights but when the door is open I do get the usual door open warning.
2) The window hasn’t tried to do anything since I bought it door open or closed
3) The auto function does not work at all for drivers window
4) Thanks for your reply!
2) The window hasn’t tried to do anything since I bought it door open or closed
3) The auto function does not work at all for drivers window
4) Thanks for your reply!
https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...ore-leaks.html
Is the passenger side getting power? With the key on, does the passenger switch illuminate (will be hard to see in daylight, but...). Does passenger side door lock switch work?
Also, wouldn't hurt to check the harnesses at the BCM (pass side footwell under dash).
At this point, if the passenger window is DEAD, and the driver side only works manually (no auto up or down), then the likely culprit is the driver side master switch.
If you are skilled in the use of a multimeter, you can check voltage and ground connections at each door. Unfortunately, there is not much else that can be diagnosed here.
Also, wouldn't hurt to check the harnesses at the BCM (pass side footwell under dash).
At this point, if the passenger window is DEAD, and the driver side only works manually (no auto up or down), then the likely culprit is the driver side master switch.
If you are skilled in the use of a multimeter, you can check voltage and ground connections at each door. Unfortunately, there is not much else that can be diagnosed here.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; May 16, 2021 at 12:21 PM.
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Is the passenger side getting power? With the key on, does the passenger switch illuminate (will be hard to see in daylight, but...). Does passenger side door lock switch work?
Also, wouldn't hurt to check the harnesses at the BCM (pass side footwell under dash).
At this point, if the passenger window is DEAD, and the driver side only works manually (no auto up or down), then the likely culprit is the driver side master switch.
If you are skilled in the use of a multimeter, you can check voltage and ground connections at each door. Unfortunately, there is not much else that can be diagnosed here.
Also, wouldn't hurt to check the harnesses at the BCM (pass side footwell under dash).
At this point, if the passenger window is DEAD, and the driver side only works manually (no auto up or down), then the likely culprit is the driver side master switch.
If you are skilled in the use of a multimeter, you can check voltage and ground connections at each door. Unfortunately, there is not much else that can be diagnosed here.
The door "puddle" light is a completely separate circuit from the window/lock switch. One has absolutely nothing to do with the other...
Being that the LOCK switch doesn't always work, leads me to suspect either a power issue or a problem with the serial com link. Remember, both driver and passenger switches communicate with each other via the BCM.
I would start with the pass door/ switch first. Then check the BCM connectors (and for water), and finally the driver master switch.
Being that the LOCK switch doesn't always work, leads me to suspect either a power issue or a problem with the serial com link. Remember, both driver and passenger switches communicate with each other via the BCM.
I would start with the pass door/ switch first. Then check the BCM connectors (and for water), and finally the driver master switch.
Originally Posted by ILM-NC G37S;[url=tel:4295561
4295561[/url]]The door "puddle" light is a completely separate circuit from the window/lock switch. One has absolutely nothing to do with the other...
Being that the LOCK switch doesn't always work, leads me to suspect either a power issue or a problem with the serial com link. Remember, both driver and passenger switches communicate with each other via the BCM.
I would start with the pass door/ switch first. Then check the BCM connectors (and for water), and finally the driver master switch.
Being that the LOCK switch doesn't always work, leads me to suspect either a power issue or a problem with the serial com link. Remember, both driver and passenger switches communicate with each other via the BCM.
I would start with the pass door/ switch first. Then check the BCM connectors (and for water), and finally the driver master switch.
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