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Drove to store fine. Come back and it won't shift out of park. Have to push in the little switch next to shifter. Back-lighting in console and cluster work. The needles, trip, and speedometer don't work. Climate controls, auto dimming rear view mirror, heated seats, cruise control, sport mode, and paddle shifters don't work. Radio still does though. Sounds like engine fans are spinning at max speeds even when at idle. Noticed that i can now feel the power steering going from highly assisted to normal now at random times when it was only normal all the time before. The gps looses signal and regains it at random times if i set a route. Have codes but no check engine light. The little key symbol is the only light lit up Car seems to drive normal with MAYBE just a little less power at takeoff. No blown fuses that I could see with the ones I checked, including the ones next to the battery, that I think might be related to the symptoms.
Codes pulled with 2 different scanners were P0500, Vehicle speed sensor malfunction, and P0463, Fuel level Sensor 'A' circuit high. 2 other codes pulled with the Hypertech tuner were P1574, ASCD vehicle speed sensor, and U1001, Invalid or missing data for primary id.
Does anyone have any good ideas of what this might be? I'm trying to avoid having to go to the dealer for this at all cost but I'm stumped. Thanks in advance.
The code U1001 has the highest priority and needs to be looked at first.
It means there is an issue on the CAN Bus and the ECU can't receive or transmit from/to the car's network.
Unless you have a good understanding of how CAN bus works and some specialized tools, I think your only option is to take it to the dealer.
Has anything been added to the car's electrical system?
Just about all of your current symptoms point to a issue with the AC Amplifier which relies heavily on CANBUS. As SonicVQ stated, the code U1001 has priority. Think of it in terms as being "the internet is down."
Double check all of your fuses. Every. Single. One. Then, check any and all ground connections you can find- ensure they are clean and tight (especially those under the hood). I hate to ask, any chance of water leaking into the cabin? Any electronics added/modified?
From the FSM- same diagnostic protocol- check wiring:
Because this issue popped up "out of the blue" makes me believe it is something minor.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Nov 18, 2020 at 11:29 AM.
I do have a Fortin remote start system but I've had it for about 5 years without issue. And my passenger side sunroof drain was leaking until I fixed it a few weeks back.
...passenger side sunroof drain was leaking until I fixed it a few weeks back.
And that is where I suggest you start troubleshooting... aside from the fuses (all 3 locations) check all of the wiring and grounding points...
If you have a digital multimeter (and know how to use it) then you can download the LAN (Local Area Network) Section of the FSM and start checking for open circuits paying attention to the Meter & Amp branch of the CANBUS.
This is going take a lot of patience and trial and error to properly diagnose and repair this issue. CANBUS repairs can be a real PITA. Take your time and look over everything. If it seems overwhelming or above your skill level, then you might not have any choice but to take it to a reputable shop.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Nov 18, 2020 at 12:34 PM.
No.
U1001 is a non-OBD CANBUS communication error.
It is either a wiring issue or a bad component within one of the CANBUS branches (likely M&A).
I would solely focus on power & ground connections right now. Disconnect battery, check fuses, inspect all connectors at the ECM/BCM- make sure everything is 100% clean and dry, locate all grounding points and make sure they are clean and tight. If everything checks out good, and the problem persists, then you go from there.
A voltage drop could have set the code. Did you try resetting the codes? Maybe it was a one-off "hiccup?"
if you want to have the battery and alternator tested, by all means do so. It is your car. Who knows, it might actually be that simple. I would still verify what I suggested above as you did have a water leak at some point. If nothing else it potentially eliminates a few things and offers peace of mind.
I will say that as much as I have modified the wiring in my car (AV, SRS, steering, etc.), the electrical system in these cars is pretty robust.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Nov 18, 2020 at 01:19 PM.
I unplugged the negative cable for a half hour. Don't know if that accomplishes the same thing though. I didn't want to clear the codes because I wanted them to still be there if I took it to the dealer.
After going through a year of troubleshooting my 2012 G37 Sedan that ended up having significant hidden water damage to the IPDM, BCM, and wiring harness due to a leaking sunroof drain, I feel for you. I could get it to start a few times by resetting the ECU by unhooking the battery, but then it wouldn't start at all until SOHO Motorsports did over $8k in repairs. Fortunately, my insurance did cover it as water damage. We also re-routed the sunroof drains so they don't go anywhere near the electronics any more.
The fuses in front of the battery checked out good. Will have to check the ones on the side of the battery and under the dash tomorrow. Advance auto said my battery and alternator were good. One thing I did notice was that a few days before this happened was that the Viper app on my phone to start my car stopped communicating with the car. Was still able to start it with the hit lock 3 times to start though.
One thing I did notice was that a few days before this happened was that the Viper app on my phone to start my car stopped communicating with the car. Was still able to start it with the hit lock 3 times to start though.
Being that the remote start works using one method (3x fob) but not the other (Viper app) leads me to wonder if this is a symptom, or a cause, of your current issue. It would be a good idea to check all of the wiring for the Viper/Fortin unit. Does the Viper unit have a dedicated, in-line fuse? Any chance the module got wet?
I am not versed with how that unit works, but based on that new info, it sounds as if the remote start unit is not fully "turning the car on." In other words, it may be starting the engine, but is it allowing the rest of the car to "boot up?" If that makes sense... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Nov 18, 2020 at 06:48 PM.
Always helpful.
