My blower motor stopped suddenly in my 2010 G37x Coupe. I replaced the two 15 Amp fuses and the Relay behind the fuse panel. Neither helped.
I have since disassembled and removed the blower motor (not seized). I can't locate the blower motor resistor, which may be the culprit. I plan on replacing the blower motor but would like to first try the cheaper resistor. Any one know exactly where it is? Or does a resistor for the car even exist? I downloaded the related full service manuals and it is not mentioned or pictured.
Thanks in advance.
Edit Quote

 

Have you followed the troubleshooting steps in the FSM?

https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...e/2010/HAC.pdf
See Page HAC- 79
Did you apply voltage to the blower motor as specified in the FSM?
Did the blower motor then operate?
Did you test the wiring harness connections as per the FSM?
Are you getting the proper battery voltage on the relay terminals?
You mentioned that you replaced 15 amp fuses. Were they blown?
Are you using a multimeter for troubleshooting measuring voltage and ground or are you just guessing?
Good luck

 

Hey, thanks for info in the FSM. I am "just guessing". I don't have the test equipment or knowledge for all of the trouble shooting. I replaced the 2 fuses to be safe. Then I replaced the relay. Then I took the blower motor apart, cleaned it, and lubricated the hub. I looked in the area of the blower motor, firewall, center console under dash etc for a blower motor resistor. I could not find one. I know from past experience that the resistors corrode over time and can cause the blower motor to quit completely or work only on high,.low, etc....
Inexplicably, I can't locate a resistor, nor can I find reference to one in the manuals. I would replace that on the cheap prior to paying for a new blower motor.
That's all I want to know....if there is a resistor, where is it?
I found a new blower motor online for under $75. Since the fuses and relay are new, the odds of problem being remedied are high with the new motor. I understand there could be wiring or voltage issues elsewhere, but it is cost effective for me to go this route, and I have the knowledge to do the install myself. Thanks again.

 

These blower motors do not use a resistor like older motors used. All of the electronics (IC- Integrated Controller) are incorporated into the blower motor housing itself:

A few simple tests would have helped to diagnose the problem, but as you have neither the skills, tools, or time, hopefully replacing the motor will solve your issue.

Please update accordingly.

 

Thanks for clearing that up for me! If the new blower works, I'll have saved hundreds of dollars. I have the wherewithal to take apart the dash and components, just no equipment for electrical testing. Much appreciated.

 

A quality, digital multimeter, is worth its weight in gold. I've had my Fluke multimeter for well over 20 years and it has saved me countless aggravation and money. But I understand your position.

Hope it works out for you.

 

The blower motor resistor is located on the blower motor it's build in .

 

thank you. When I finally figured that out, I ordered a new blower motor on Amazon for less than sixty bucks. Installed it and everything has been great ever since.

 

I removed the plastic trim on top by the battery and forgot to put it back leaving a big opening to the cabin air filter. Went to car wash and the filter was drenched and not bowing any air. Changed the filter and tried changing the 2 15a fuses but they keep blowing. Could water of blown the actual blower motor?

 

Short answer: yes. Water and electricity do not mix. After the filter became drenched, it is very likely that water leaked into the motor housing and damaged the internal electronics. When you removed the filter was there any water along the bottom of the air box?

You can try removing the blower motor and completely drying it out, as well as the connector, but likely you'll have to replace the blower.

 

Got it. So new blower motor with possibly new relay and the 2 fuses. Does the motor have to be oem or can I buy it from any auto parts store? Is there a difference in performance that you may know of?

 

I doubt the relay is shot. Those are tough little cookies. Fuses, yes. Many folks have had luck with whatever blowers Amazon is pushing these days. I'd go that route and, if it doesn't work, you can always return it. Just make sure it is G37-compatible.

Amazon will cost ≈$65-70. (depends on that Prime crap),
OEM p/n: 27225-JK60B will cost ≈$135-225 (depending on vendor)

Also, make sure the air box is completely dry before putting everything back together. You do not want to risk mold or mildew settling in.

 

You’re the best. Quick replies and you know your stuff. I got lucky with an exact model and year at my local junk yard. Got the blower motor and some new oem fuses for $30 quick and easy install 15 min. Everything working great now. Just payed 300 about a month ago to fix my ac so I was bummed out that the air stopped working too but everything back to normal!

 

Congrats! Glad it was a simple, painless fix and that you got it running before the heat waves get here!

 

so quick question, my car did blow both 15A fuses. my question is the order of "power supply" i know it comes in and hits the fuses first, then goes to the relay and ultimately the blower motor. would the relay blow the fuses or is a bad blower motor shorting the voltage and flow backwards through the relay and popping the fuses? (i have a meter)