So I am trying to leave the gym, unlock car, press break, push button... all lights on dash come up, all sort of chirps from the dashboard start, but car won't.

Break pedal is now quite hard to push in, no response to the fob, can't lock it, open trunk, radio won't turn on. Just all lights on the dash.

Help.

 

Maybe starter? You can test it to see if that is the problem.

 

No tools or anything to help me out here. All the dash lights on is weird. Is even telling me the door is open when it is not.

 

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes?

 

I was leaning towards battery is good but have you tried jumping it. Also are you getting any clicking etc... There are typically a few basic cases why a car won't start. Is it cranking at least, starting and then going out, just not turning over, etc...

My last car would only start if I turned the car off at a good point. If I didn't it would take me forever to get it running again.

 

There were no clicks. I disconnected the battery, waited a few minutes and reconnected it. Immediately went haywire again. Checked voltage with voltmeter, good 13v at battery. Had it towed to dealer, just before they closed. Seems to be an ECU malfunction of some sort. More later this week.

 

Dead battery possibly. Get a boost and see if that works.

 

Good thing you got it in now they can work on it first thing tomorrow. Keep us posted and let's hope it is no big deal .

 

You should've tried getting a jump starts prior to towing it to the dealership. Hopefully they don't charge you to much if it's nothing major and with that being said hopefully it isn't something major. Best of luck man keep us posted.

 

It is good to know someone at the dealership... they have started working on it bright and early.

They have tried to jump start it and nothing...

Disconnecting the battery seems to have done the trick... a quick "reset" of all electrical systems, if you will. They will perform some diagnostics as the day goes by.

So far the dealer reports that they cannot open the gas door. Maybe there is a short there and it is causing all sorts of havoc on the electrical system. More as it develops.

 

Very good to hear man hopefully you'll have the car back in no time!

 

Hey,

Read my post from the link below. . make sure that it doesn't apply to your car. check your vin etc .... The dealer didn't know about this until I found the issue.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...f-problem.html

The ITB which applies is ITB12-024.

 

Thank you! Let the dealer know about this. It seems it was applied already.


In the end, it was a short on the "fuel lid door actuator" that in turn sent the BCM crazy. They need to reprogram the BCM and FOBs (tomorrow), order the actuator (all the way from Japan), and I should have the car good to go before mine and my wife anniversary trip this weekend. $100 deductible, rental car covered, still $367.34 out of pocket. Not bad for an electrical part.

 

FYI ... checking the car battery with a volt meter is pretty useless. Unless the battery is totally shot to hell you will almost always read decent voltage. True test is a load test and also check voltage with car running to see if you are getting good charging voltage (roughly 14-14.5 volts). I know you couldn't do either of those in this case.