I agree with putting "0's" in the survey. That got their attention with me. Believe it or not try their FACEBOOK page! I got a response in 4 hours.

I had the dreaded interior high pitched noise. Everyone claimed they couldn't hear it. if you can find the same or similar problem on this site give it to them! Corporate initially refused my concern. After talking with a few different people I finally talked to an "engineer" who was familiar with my issue. He said it was a "known issue with a fix". I had them call the dealer even though they claimed my car would not be covered at 76k. IT WAS! They ordered the parts. NO COST to me. Again, this wasn't the same issue but I think persistence pays off.

 

As of last week I too am experiencing the same issues in regards to CEL P0021 and P0524. My vehicle is at Sewell Infiniti Houston,TX and I was just quoted $3500.00 to replace the rear time cover gasket along with the associated parts timing chain, gaskets etc....

Here is the exact quote I received via email from the service advisor: "We need to start by replacing the rear timing cover and the seals and gaskets within it that are allowing for the drop in oil pressure. The total cost of the repair is right at $3500, which includes the labor to remove your engine, replace the rear timing cover and associated components, and reinstall everything, as well as the cost of the parts with tax. Please do not hesitate to contact me if I can provide any additional information or be of any additional assistance!"

Is their no other way around fixing this issue? My car doesn't fully go into limp mode but when stepping on the gas to quickly accelerate it will not respond well. I can feel the engine jolt and shake or misfire but once I ease off acceleration for 2-3 seconds it will accelerate fine as long as I'm not fully stepping on the throttle. I cannot afford this problem right now and just recently underwent a full new brake job rotor, pads etc., transmission flush and tune up. The car has 85k on it.

ANY ADVISE GUYS WOULD HELP????????

 

Same dealership as BB...

 

Man, I'm sorry to hear that Jbusby. I don't know that there's anyway around it unless you're willing/able to go at it yourself. As Jeremy mentioned, it's not something I would have time to do myself or really the knowledge for something that involved. I've never pulled an engine before.

Does anyone know if this issue is limited to 2008/2009 models? Or is it related to ALL VQ37's? I would hope that in later model years, they would have replaced that crappy gasket with a more durable part. Seems like a no-brainer.

 

Or perhaps just seal the parts together with silicon gasket goo...

 

^^^
My thoughts exactly. If there was a way to cleanly seal that gasket in silicone, it probably wouldn't be an issue.

 

Just out of curiosity, I would like to see what would happen if I went into that same dealership with the $25 gasket in my hand and asked for it to be installed. If they said $3500 I could whip out the printout of the PDF I brought of the engine disassembly showing only the front being taken off to reach that gasket and ask why they are removing so much.

But seriously I can't believe this dealership is trying to do the same to another customer after dealing with BB so recently. I guess they can justify it because when they punch up the service on the computer, that's what it says is required.

 

So I hate seeing elements of poor design decisions and that's caused me to get my engineering cap on. I am considering ordering all of these gaskets and designing a molding jig out of CNC'd aluminum. Basically, it would be a two-sided mold and would be 1/16" of an inch larger than the gaskets. You'd fill the back side of the mold with high temperature silicone RTV and place the gasket on top of the RTV on the back of the mold. You'd fill the front half of the mold with RTV as well and then join the two halves together. I would put channels in the mold for the excess to escape and then clamp the two halves together with several clamps and allow it to set.

I have access to a CNC machine at work so it would not be too hard to do this. Anyone interested? I know I am probably over-thinking this and over-engineering a solution to this problem, however, it's bad enough to have to do this once but if they're using the same crappy gasket on the repair, I think that adds insult to injury only to have to go through the same thing in how ever many miles.. wash, rinse, repeat.

Thoughts?

 

Another option for those of you guys out of warranty like myself is purchasing an extended warranty from somewhere like warrantydirect.com

I looked into it as I'm at 86k miles. The long and short of it.. it's expensive. My quote was right around $1882 and that would cover me for 37 months and 37,000 extra miles and it would be $100 down and $99 a month for 18 months, and no charge to finance. But between FI CBE and FI RHFC, I'm paying close to $2k so it's all a matter of what's important to you.

At first when I saw the website quote, I was put off by it. But I'm actually considering it. Their warranty is of the wear and tear type where a part does not have to fully break down in order for them to cover it.

So is it worth it? Possibly. You're basically getting some extra miles without having to worry about coming out of pocket a huge lump sum. And there is a one month waiting period and 1,000 miles are required before any claims are made.

If the 7AT goes out for some reason, a new one costs almost $9k and who knows how much in labor. But if your 7AT goes out, you're likely going to A) trade the car in or B) get one from a salvage yard and have it installed.

 

Those extended warranties have so much fine print that most of them can back out of almost any serious claim. My 02 BMW 7 had one and there was numerous problems and in the fine print it basically said any failure due to overheating would be void, how can you prove that it wasn't due to overheating?? Maybe the warranty you found is less misleading

 

Brad, in my research I learned that there are two types of those extended warranties. One is of the "major breakdown variety" (MBV) which functions pretty much exactly as you mentioned. The other, which is what warranty direct offers is of the "wear and tear" variety and they will cover anything major that goes wrong, including engine seals, gaskets, and other mechanical breakdown. For instance, if the alternator is beginning to go out such as not supplying enough voltage, the MBV warranty won't cover it because it has not completely failed. In the case of alternator, a complete failure is highly unlikely, unless all of the windings pop and it's supplying zero current.

Basically, the cost amounts to a $3.00 cup of coffee every day for 18 months to get three years of additional peace of mind. But give them a call and do your own research on them. They're the only extended warranty company that is approved by Kelley Blue Book. So there's that.

 

Are there any reputable non-dealer shops near you?

I finally found a good one near me, and I know they would take a more common sense approach to fixing something like this, vs going by what Nissan/Infiniti says is Gospel.

 

I do know of a reputable shop here in Houston I can take my car too. They quoted me at $900.00 but my only thing is what are all the parts I need to get for this operation? This has really been a pain in my ***, especially because I am scheduled to be relocating soon to Dallas for my job within the next few weeks. It really sucks this is the only vehicle me and my family have at the moment. I've been looking into a 09 Armada since I have 3 boys but due to this s*** I need to take care of this G37 before I proceed with that.

 

So I just got a response from the dealer this morning and they are only able to bump the price down to $2500.00. I told them I couldn't do that and I will be picking up the vehicle today with the request of a full diagnostic report parts, labor etc... But I need to know what and where to get the specific parts I need in order to get my car over to the non-dealer shop for operation.

 

The diag report usually list the part number on the left side. If this is an Infiniti dealer the part will be listed under pass/fail column with a *. Even an autologic system list the part numbers. Infiniti may charge an additional fee for the diagnostic hard copy. Similar to requesting medical records... BS!

With the part numbers listed do a google shopping search and you should find a competitive price.