Semi-new owner, Clutch issues
Registered Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,638
Likes: 161
From: NJ
^Only if whatever problem you have is related to the part you changed. Then again in this case why not just have the dealer swap it under warranty and upgrade the slave when its time for a new clutch. If your doing the clutch for sure I'd recommend just getting both done now.
The master on these cars is pretty strong from the factory from what people say but if your changing the clutch and CSC you may as well change that (its not much more expensive)
The master on these cars is pretty strong from the factory from what people say but if your changing the clutch and CSC you may as well change that (its not much more expensive)
Never had another clutch problem when I traded it in last August at 171792 miles still on the original clutch.
Telcoman
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
One more question guys. So, as I mentioned.. I just recently purchased the vehicle, and this part failed.. the Infiniti dealership I purchased from, offered to repair everything for 1500, and warranty the work(probably not the clutch though.. failed to ask this).
The aftermarket parts+ labor, would be close to 2000. But obviously, a more reliable setup. Should I go with the OEM setup, for 1500, and possibly endup going through this again in a few months- to a year.. or just go aftermarket, and do it on my own?
The aftermarket parts+ labor, would be close to 2000. But obviously, a more reliable setup. Should I go with the OEM setup, for 1500, and possibly endup going through this again in a few months- to a year.. or just go aftermarket, and do it on my own?
Registered Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 130
Likes: 4
From: Los Angeles, CA
One more question guys. So, as I mentioned.. I just recently purchased the vehicle, and this part failed.. the Infiniti dealership I purchased from, offered to repair everything for 1500, and warranty the work(probably not the clutch though.. failed to ask this).
The aftermarket parts+ labor, would be close to 2000. But obviously, a more reliable setup. Should I go with the OEM setup, for 1500, and possibly endup going through this again in a few months- to a year.. or just go aftermarket, and do it on my own?
The aftermarket parts+ labor, would be close to 2000. But obviously, a more reliable setup. Should I go with the OEM setup, for 1500, and possibly endup going through this again in a few months- to a year.. or just go aftermarket, and do it on my own?
I've heard great things about aftermarket clutch kits but the downside seems to be the clutch chatter. The chatter reducing clutch/clutch disk you linked earlier I've never seen before so it must be new?
If I were in your shoes, I would probably go OEM with the HD slave and save the $500 (especially since buying all new OEM clutch parts would normally be in the ~$3K ballpark for parts alone from what I recall when shopping around). But I heard the aftermarket flywheel and clutch setups are a bit more "fun" and "aggressive" and combined with the RJM pedal, is a real treat to drive.
One more question guys. So, as I mentioned.. I just recently purchased the vehicle, and this part failed.. the Infiniti dealership I purchased from, offered to repair everything for 1500, and warranty the work(probably not the clutch though.. failed to ask this).
The aftermarket parts+ labor, would be close to 2000. But obviously, a more reliable setup. Should I go with the OEM setup, for 1500, and possibly endup going through this again in a few months- to a year.. or just go aftermarket, and do it on my own?
The aftermarket parts+ labor, would be close to 2000. But obviously, a more reliable setup. Should I go with the OEM setup, for 1500, and possibly endup going through this again in a few months- to a year.. or just go aftermarket, and do it on my own?
I think Takman is about right. I can't fully recall if it was $500 or $700 for labor, and that was just for the clutch/flywheel and slave. I went to a local shop that my friend swears by, and they did a good job. Replacing the MC might cost a little bit more because its in a way unrelated to the changing of the clutch and CSC (those are in the trans, where the master is in the hood).
I cant help you too much with the silent disk, as I dont have it. I think i got the flywheel I did because although you cant resurface it, it is basically just a swappable disk when it does go bad, and the replacement disk was WAY cheaper than a new flywheel. Just to be clear (after I've done ALOT of research on it). What creates the chatter is the light flywheel. OEM our car has a dual mass flywheel that is big and heavy and basically absorbs the sound. Since the aftermarkets are lighter, they dont absorb as much sound. I'd be very interested as to how that silent disk clutch works out, but when i was researching, i dont recall seeing anythign about it.
I cant help you too much with the silent disk, as I dont have it. I think i got the flywheel I did because although you cant resurface it, it is basically just a swappable disk when it does go bad, and the replacement disk was WAY cheaper than a new flywheel. Just to be clear (after I've done ALOT of research on it). What creates the chatter is the light flywheel. OEM our car has a dual mass flywheel that is big and heavy and basically absorbs the sound. Since the aftermarkets are lighter, they dont absorb as much sound. I'd be very interested as to how that silent disk clutch works out, but when i was researching, i dont recall seeing anythign about it.
The dual mass flywheel is 2 pieces which "float" on each other to keep the trans gears quiet. Not really the weight that makes them quiet.
The "Silent" Or "Quiet" disk work much like the stock dual mass flywheel and have a floating center hub which reduces the engine firing pulses into the trans gears, This is what rattles when going to a single mass flywheel.
The "quiet" disk works much the same way without all the extra weight of the OE dual mass flywheel.
I have the 14.5lb aluminum South Bend flywheel in our shop 370Z right now with the "Quiet" disk and it is barely audible most of the time, Fully warmed up you can hear it slightly at idle but nothing like without it.
South Bend "Quiet disk" option, South Bend Steel flywheel 19 or 24lb with Motul gear 300 trans fluid is by far the quietest aftermarket set-up.
So why does the clutch go so early? Poor quality? I have an old civic with over 200k and have never had a problem out of the clutch, trans or any supporting parts. I found a 2008 with just under 35K on it that I am thinking of buying but I don't want to get a car that I am going to immediately have to dump 2 grand into on normal $h!+. If I am dropping that I want new wheels, sound system or exhaust for that money! Are you guys driving hard, new to manual or is this "normal-ish" wear and tear?
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 6,103
Likes: 594
From: People's Republic of IL
The problem is not the clutch disk itself, but rather the poorly designed slave cylinder. It's been speculated that lack of maintenance (clutch fluid flush) might be one contributing factor. However, even new(er) cars have had CSC failures, so who knows. If you're worried buy an extended warranty.
I've been driving manuals for close to 20 years. Last car was a 4th gen z28 that I sold with ~85K miles with the original clutch - never changed the fluid in that one ever.
I've been driving manuals for close to 20 years. Last car was a 4th gen z28 that I sold with ~85K miles with the original clutch - never changed the fluid in that one ever.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
redlinernyc
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
10
Feb 29, 2016 11:06 PM
inspector94
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
8
Sep 8, 2015 12:57 PM
