picked up my 6MT last night... glad I went with the 6MT.

 

Manual is fun. You won't mess up your car too much learning it. As for getting tired of it after a while.... that depends. When i first started to drive an MT I said I would never ever drive and auto again. Fast forward to now... and I have had a change of heart. For me, it's just more of a chore now more than anything ( driving an MT ). In the end (and as with any other car) a G37 is a G37 no matter what transmission you pick. Having an MT is not going to give you 100 more HP.

 

My thing is 70mph at 3k rpms..

How far off is the 6MT from this?

 

I do not own the G37, but according to the numbers I have (3.79 final drive, 0.79 6th gear ratio, 245/40/19 tires), the rpm should be approximately 2,575 in 6th gear at 70 mph.

at 3,000 rpm you would be traveling at almost 82 mph in a 6mt.

 

I said this in a much earlier post, but I really believe if you have to ask yourself that question, then you're probably better off with the auto in the long run. There is no doubt that an auto is an easier way to get around. Performance is a non-issue as their so close anyway. For me - I won't even shop for a car if a manual is not an option. My wife doesn't drive stick, so she has her own car. She bugs me about owning only manual cars, but she knows how important cars/driving is to me and getting an auto in a non-starter. I deal with it in times of traffic for the joy of driving when there is not. And for everyone who says "traffic is terrible in (fill in the blank)", then why shop for a G37 anyway? If traffic is that bad, then what joy could you possibly get out of any car in this class? Unless, of course, your main priority is not driving-oriented (nice looking car, fancy electronics), which I'm sure is the case with many people. There are many good reasons to buy one car over another.


EDIT: By the way, the only part of my post that was in response to Ender17 is the 1st couple of lines. The rest is from the posts I've read in this thread.

 

well my daily commute to school is about 10 miles nothing but stop and go traffic, but when I go home to work about once a week, it's 50 miles of mostly wide open highway

so, nothing to worry about learning on a $40k car? I know one of my friends that has a POS accord that's a stick, maybe he can teach me to drive

 

Nothing to worry about.

 

no you wont mess it up really. i learned on my vette when i bought it back in june. what really helped me is i read online sites about tips on driving manual. that really helped me a lot. also everychance i got i drove and manual car for extra practice.

 

real men drive manuals.....

 

how does driving a manual factor into quick thinking safety situations? with an auto, you'd just brake and turn the steering wheel, i'd imagine with a manual you're doing more.

 

Nope it is the same... I guess if you're concerned about stalling the engine (you're hard braking at LOW speeds, ie < 20mph), then you are mashing the clutch down while you mash the brake. Otherwise, it is the same.

The car will stop the same. If you want to surpass the 5AT's stopping power and you know what you are doing, you can downshift to the lowest possible gear immediately (e.g. cruising in 6th to 6,000 rpm in 2nd) to use engine braking to help your car stop a few feet sooner.

 

I went with the 5AT for something different for a change. I have an 06 Civic Si (manual obviously) and just liked the novelty of the paddle shifters. I drove a 6MT 08 and an 07 and there definitely is an improvement in the clutch. Just my 2 cents!

 

If that's the case wouldn't highway driving give much better mileage in the 6MT vs. the Auto....Assuming you live in a state where highway driving is typically 70-80 MPH on avg without gettin pulled over (eg Michigan)

 

Unfortunately for relatively new MT drivers like me - that IMMEDIATE downshift to 2nd in a crunch situation for engine braking is not 2nd nature just YET and easier said than done I just brake by pushing in the clutch, dropping to neutral and braking while keeping the cluth in so that when I shift back up I can just depress to the friction point. Is there anything wrong with that in orthodox MT protocol?

 

This is accurate +/- 3mph as far as I can tell..