SheDrivesaG37

I love your setup! Do you happen to have the specs or drawings on how to assemble? ❤️

QUOTE=BOOSTTT;4324931]I did the same thing. The height for the entire box has to be under 5.75". Mine sounds amazing. Top works fine. Lots of Dynomat under the cover to prevent a flapping sound. For best results, tap into the 6x9's speaker wires because your bass **** will work just like a sub control as only low frequencies will be going out from those.
This works very well:

NVX XFLOC2 2-Channel 80W Line Output Converter with Digital Noise Filter + Line Driver

Zero unwanted noises.

Sub barely fits:

Pioneer TS-A3000LS4

Shallow-mount 12" 4-ohm subwoofer

Amp isn't mounted in the pic yet. It's a Kenwood and doesn't get hot at all. I also upgraded the tweets in the sail and that made all the difference. The system is perfect with a good sub and better tweets.
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BOOSTTT

I measured the opening in the trunk and subtracted 3" in width and 3" on the length to be able to move it a bit if needed. It is in a U shape for the air space required. I bought some 12" MDF mounting rings to sink the sub 3/4" so it wouldn't hit the trunk floor cover. Still ended up putting a grill on the sub because the trunk floor sags and my sub was hitting the fabric. I used the mounting ring to measure the space needed to just barely fit. The lower sub ring is touching the back and the front of the upper opening, so that determined the opening/space for the sub. The height is 5.75 inches (outer dimensions) The MDF is .75 inch, so the height of ea cut is 4.25 inches and the length is 23" minus .75 inches on the sides to account for the with of the MDF. Start with the floor of the enclosure, as it's just one piece. Make .75 inch thick lines around the perimeter (wood thickness) and draw on the base how the sides will fit. That sub will just fit with 4.25" minus .75 inch for the counter sunk sub rings, so the sub mounting depth has to be less than 3.5 inches. That specific sub is 3.38" on the mounting depth. You need a little space under the sub. It can't be laying on the floor of the enclosure. The amp cut-out was measured by the size of the amp. That Kenwood amp (Kenwood Excelon X501-1) is fairly small, but it's perfect for this sub. running on 2 Ohms at 500W. I was worried it might not have enough power, but it's MORE than enough! The cutout for the amp is fairly snug, so I could get enough air space for the enclosure. I drilled out holes under the amp to run the wires out of sight. Ea hole was about 1/2 inch and I made 5 holes. 2 for RCA's 1 for ground, 1 for 12V and one for power on wire. The wire connector to the sub is behind the amp, so the wires are short so they can tuck behind the amp, but just enough length to be able to slide the amp out for access to the wiring. The wire holes on the bottom will let you pull those wires from under the enclosure and not have anything bunched up. I made the larger holes above the amp for ventilation and access to the mounting points on the amp. I'm really surprised that amp does not get hot. I'm very impressed with that sub. It sounds fantastic. The bass is deep and sounds like a full sized sub even though it's a shallow mount. The box is still just a bit tall, so I removed the plastic that went around the spare tire and dremeled the screws half way down too. I would suggest making the floor of the enclosure 1/2 inch MDF to get a perfect height, but reinforce it. I sealed every piece with silicone adhesive caulk in between ea piece and every seam on the inside of the enclosure. The floor cover in the trunk will need to fully lined with Dynomat, or it will cause a flapping sound. I just barely have enough room to close the vert top.