nitto 555 vs neo gen
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they make them now cass. and i beat my tires as hard as you can with vdc on so im only getting about 18k out of my rears.
looks like i might just stick with the t1-r's and get the camber kit. i was trying to save $ but oops? i have to admit the small camber correction they did with just factory made the car so much sturdier. i bet 0 and 0 will be awesome. already contacting iapdirect for the kit. ill probably just do rotations every 10k miles as well.
chuck are you talking about april 21st? i was thinking about going to atl that weekend for sharifs dyno day. are you free the weekend after (28th)? if not, ill adjust to your schedule since this is rather important. im going to wait until may before zdayz and ill get new tires once i get the kit on and my alignment corrected.
looks like i might just stick with the t1-r's and get the camber kit. i was trying to save $ but oops? i have to admit the small camber correction they did with just factory made the car so much sturdier. i bet 0 and 0 will be awesome. already contacting iapdirect for the kit. ill probably just do rotations every 10k miles as well.
chuck are you talking about april 21st? i was thinking about going to atl that weekend for sharifs dyno day. are you free the weekend after (28th)? if not, ill adjust to your schedule since this is rather important. im going to wait until may before zdayz and ill get new tires once i get the kit on and my alignment corrected.
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doh. well my off days before zdayz are 4/20-4/22, 4/28-5/1 and 5/8-5/10. i doubt you can do it during the week anytime huh?
so i was wondering, do you really want 0 camber front and rear? or would a little negative camber (like -.5) help with handling?
so i was wondering, do you really want 0 camber front and rear? or would a little negative camber (like -.5) help with handling?
You dont want to run 0 camber all around, then your handling will go to ****. When you take a hard turn, the inner contact patch wont be touching the ground because the camber will go positive. I'd recommend around -0.5 up front and -1.0 in the rear to retain your handling capabilities.
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Originally Posted by w0ady
doh. well my off days before zdayz are 4/20-4/22, 4/28-5/1 and 5/8-5/10. i doubt you can do it during the week anytime huh?
so i was wondering, do you really want 0 camber front and rear? or would a little negative camber (like -.5) help with handling?
so i was wondering, do you really want 0 camber front and rear? or would a little negative camber (like -.5) help with handling?
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The service manual lists the following data for alignment specs.
FRONT
Camber Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum − 1°15′ (− 1.25°)
Nominal − 0°30′ (− 0.50°)
Maximum 0°15′ (0.25°)
Left and right difference 45′ (0.75°)
Total toe-in Distance (A - B)
Minimum 0 mm (0 in)
Nominal 1 mm (0.04 in)
Maximum 2 mm (0.08 in)
REAR
Camber Degree minute (Decimal Degree)
Minimum − 1°45′(− 1.75°)
Nominal − 1°15′(− 1.25°)
Maximum − 0°45′(− 0.75°)
Total toe-in Distance (A - B)
Minimum 0 mm (0 in)
Nominal 2.8 mm (0.110 in)
Maximum 5.6 mm (0.220 in)
FRONT
Camber Degree minute (Decimal degree)
Minimum − 1°15′ (− 1.25°)
Nominal − 0°30′ (− 0.50°)
Maximum 0°15′ (0.25°)
Left and right difference 45′ (0.75°)
Total toe-in Distance (A - B)
Minimum 0 mm (0 in)
Nominal 1 mm (0.04 in)
Maximum 2 mm (0.08 in)
REAR
Camber Degree minute (Decimal Degree)
Minimum − 1°45′(− 1.75°)
Nominal − 1°15′(− 1.25°)
Maximum − 0°45′(− 0.75°)
Total toe-in Distance (A - B)
Minimum 0 mm (0 in)
Nominal 2.8 mm (0.110 in)
Maximum 5.6 mm (0.220 in)
