DIY: Clutch Master Cylinder
11-23-2016, 09:37 PM
#1
DIY: Clutch Master Cylinder
This is for my 6MT guys. Over the weekend I had the pleasure of a failed clutch master cylinder. Luckily I foresaw this part failing so I had a spare on hand. Difficulty on this: 4/10. It's relatively easy to do but getting it it between the brake booster and the abs booster is SOOOOOOO tight, expect to be there for quite some time. Start inside the car by disconnecting the clutch pedal from the master cylinder by taking the pins out. Next grab a 12mm and a lengthy extension to loosen the cmc off of the firewall. I used this bad boy to help me get up there easier
It'll be good to have a magnet on hand. The bolt might fall behind the fuse box. Leave one bolt on. You'll come back to it momentarily. Time to get under the hood and remove everything associated with the cmc. Clutch fluid reservoir, bracket and hose. Disconnect and take away all of that. The clutch line is a 10mm wrench. With the cmc still fasten on the inside, it'll be easier to take it off. When finished, remove the 10mm bolt from inside the car. Now jack the car up and remove the passenger side wheel. Remove clips holding up fender liner. You'll see three 12mm bolts that are for the abs module. Remove those. Now the fun begins. Lift the module up and out of the holes and pull it towards the front of the car. The brake lines are flexible so it'll be fine. Just don't be blatant by pulling on them. Time to begin the wiggle process. Get the cmc out however you can. You can remove the 10mm bolt in the front of the abs module obstructing if it is you can rotate the cmc left or right. However you can.
The damper below the cmc will be the biggest issue to clear. The way I got it out is by rotating the cmc to the right until the damper was on the top then slid it out.
Putting in the replacement is just as tedious as taking it out. For me, I couldn't get it in with the damper on the right but it slid right in when it was rotated on the left (side of the brake booster). Reconnect the clutch line, bolt down the abs module, reconnect the fluid reservoir, install bracket tighten everything down.
Return back inside and bolt the cmc down with the two 10mm bolts. Get some grease handy to hold the bolt inside the socket so it doesn't fall out when putting the bolts back on then connecting the pedal to the cmc and Eureka! Clutch master is cylinder has been replace! Time to bleed the clutch and the job is completed. I bled the clutch by leaving the clutch pedal up, slackening the bleeder valve and keeping the fluid reservoir tapped up with some dot 4 brake fluid. It'll start out by dripping then continue on to a stream. You can tighten breather valve and check clutch pedal to make sure u got pressure. Once completed, you are done with bleeding the clutch (by yourself) and u can go grab a few beers for a job well done.
It'll be good to have a magnet on hand. The bolt might fall behind the fuse box. Leave one bolt on. You'll come back to it momentarily. Time to get under the hood and remove everything associated with the cmc. Clutch fluid reservoir, bracket and hose. Disconnect and take away all of that. The clutch line is a 10mm wrench. With the cmc still fasten on the inside, it'll be easier to take it off. When finished, remove the 10mm bolt from inside the car. Now jack the car up and remove the passenger side wheel. Remove clips holding up fender liner. You'll see three 12mm bolts that are for the abs module. Remove those. Now the fun begins. Lift the module up and out of the holes and pull it towards the front of the car. The brake lines are flexible so it'll be fine. Just don't be blatant by pulling on them. Time to begin the wiggle process. Get the cmc out however you can. You can remove the 10mm bolt in the front of the abs module obstructing if it is you can rotate the cmc left or right. However you can.
The damper below the cmc will be the biggest issue to clear. The way I got it out is by rotating the cmc to the right until the damper was on the top then slid it out.
Putting in the replacement is just as tedious as taking it out. For me, I couldn't get it in with the damper on the right but it slid right in when it was rotated on the left (side of the brake booster). Reconnect the clutch line, bolt down the abs module, reconnect the fluid reservoir, install bracket tighten everything down.
Return back inside and bolt the cmc down with the two 10mm bolts. Get some grease handy to hold the bolt inside the socket so it doesn't fall out when putting the bolts back on then connecting the pedal to the cmc and Eureka! Clutch master is cylinder has been replace! Time to bleed the clutch and the job is completed. I bled the clutch by leaving the clutch pedal up, slackening the bleeder valve and keeping the fluid reservoir tapped up with some dot 4 brake fluid. It'll start out by dripping then continue on to a stream. You can tighten breather valve and check clutch pedal to make sure u got pressure. Once completed, you are done with bleeding the clutch (by yourself) and u can go grab a few beers for a job well done.
Last edited by PongSanity; 11-28-2016 at 05:29 PM.
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goldbug (04-05-2023)
11-28-2016, 05:31 PM
#3
That's what the z1 tech told me it is. The damper is flat circular area at the bottom of the cmc. I actually forgot cmc made an upgraded master cylinder and I already had a stock master cylinder on hand. If... and a BIG if... if it fails again, I will go to the heavy duty master
11-29-2016, 10:27 PM
#6
When is a good question. Sometime in the last year or two?
370Z/G37 Clutch Master Cylinders - *RJM Performance.com
370Z/G37 Clutch Master Cylinders - *RJM Performance.com
