Quick note: The GTR gauges, Bluetooth sensor server (for oil pressure) hardware is now finalized, circuit boards designed and triple checked. Tomorrow they will be submitted to manufacturing.
So... please hang in there!

 

Thanks for the update Frank. We are all excited to see how the final product turns out as this product is something the community has needed for some time now.

 

This is possibly where our issues differ between one and the other.

I serviced my Gallery gasket 30k miles ago just changing the gasket and re-using oem bolts just properly torqued and sealed. This either failed over time or I started having VTC issues and my gallery is fine.

Now my pattern is to drive over this RPM under operating temps, if I do I'm able to utilize the car however has to spend the least amount possible under 3000 rpms or it will start logging the fault and in about 15mins of detecting it the bucking starts and usually stays there until I turn off the car and let it cool down. Sadly I've developed a fantastic pattern that has caused me to keep ignoring the issue being that I have a spare engine for it.

Now if under no circumstances you are able to replicate my patterns then this could point out that your issue is just pressure to the VTCs and mine's is a faulty gear/phaser. I only get a P0011 almost daily and many times depending on how I follow this pattern there are certain days that it does not trigger it.

You've changed the solenoid which should have worked (usually points that it's not the solenoid itself) Next down the line would be to determine if there is oil pressure post solenoid which is impossible to test while the engine is together. The only spot you can tap into is the oem sender which is pre-VTC. The FSM would tell you that this is unnecessary being that you should be looking at variating VTC angles but this is not always the case.

The spot where it feeds the VTC which is a male/female part could be damaged, VTC gear could be leaking internally, phaser ring could have shifted.

One side effect that I have a theory about is the oil consumption. This could be from hotter oil from not enough lubrication to the VTC as well as wear on the cylinders/rings from the richer airfuels that the engine tries to burn.

PS: The stethoscope will work, just needs to be a decent one ($40) amazon ones do wonders)

 

It does sound like our issues are completely different. I can't get the car to go over 3500 and if the oil pressure s not high enough then I don't want to. I am going to remove the oil switch, get a gage and pressure test the engine. If the pressure is less than it should be then I will scope it, if I see gasket....then the plan is to change the GG and install a pressure gage while I'm down there. God this sucks. Soho is out of bounds for the price they charge by the lack of competition in CLT. My rule of thumb is that If the job is 2x what I would make in the alloted time to do it, then I will have someone do it. I will just do it myself. God this sucks! I don't have an engine lift anymore either or I might get an engine at LKQ but still 2x more $.

 

So A finite reality is that:
Gallery gasket
Bolts
New Sprocket
Chain
Tensioner

Will fix this problem completely. Unsure how much of service the car is being right now however if it's not that bad then use this time to save and scavenge the parts needed.
If I wouldnt have made the mistake of buying a spare engine I would have taken a trip to the yard and replaced everything with newer low mileage JY stuff in an instant.
I told myself I would use that time to learn the P0011 code which I've somewhat have and in the end ended up having to replace the transmission over a locked TC.
I would hate to give up on mine's but we will see.

 

I performed the pressure test at idle and 2000rpm at operating temp. I get 11-12psi idle and 50psi+at 2000rpm. I replaced the pressure switch (not like that had anything to do with it but I got one) and it still sends codes. I purchased all the stuff to do the chain, water pump, and gaskets. I am also thinking about getting an oil pressure meter as well. I remember someone saying that they have the pressure switch disconnected and not getting a pressure light. May have misunderstood. Anyhow my question is this, is the other sensor next to it the oil temp? Pictured next to the open switch port.

 

10-12psi is indicative of a gallery gasket. The open port is factory oil pressure. The sensor is engine oil temperature.

 

Looks like this outfit on the other side of the pond is offering gauges that integrate with our nav unit: https://zada-tech.com/products/multi...rket-head-unit

 

I saw that offering some time ago. From what I gather, it is the OBDII version of the "Nifty City" or GROM V-Line that folks use for the AV Infotainment. By "hijacking" the AUX (or AV Composite signal) they can inject their images/ software/ feed. I am not sure it is worth the base price of £500 ($620). But, to each their own.

 

Well it turns out it WAS the galley gaskets. Being that a few of the screws around the gasket were lose and others, this has to be the failure mode. The locations of the lose screws were the areas of very easy gasket removal. It is not the fault of the gaskets. If the screws back out due to vibration then it is an assembly (or perhaps a design) process problem. Look at my sketchy *** **** harmonic balancer install. Eventually had to use the jack handle as a cheater bar.

 

I think we are both happy to find that it was this gasket. I know I am in a way because it shows diagnosis was correct, in another way it makes me question mines. In a lot of cases the gallery leaves the car undriveable which my method of being able to drive the car should not be working unless the gasket is not fully blown/etc. I suspect that on mine's it might be more VTC that overheated due to gallery gasket failure but in a uncommon way. Being that I went the extra mile to prevent the backing out of bolts and gasket by using RTV on the "re-used factory bolts" I suspect that I might have had a bolt back out and created a minimal leak that dried up the VTC and killed it. I also suspect that some RTV might have made it into the Gallery and gotten stuck inside the VTC filter or VTC itself.

Anyways, I approve of the tightening method. You supported the extension because you know how important this is. Most folks would have jammed the flywheel/flexplate if you had the correct tool or the right pry bar but this can increase failure. You did great in my opinion.
Thank you for the diagnosis and documentation you were able to provide. All of this will be golden info in a few years when VHRs are not so cheap to replace and folks have no other choice.

 

I still get P0021 and P0525 codes and brick wall at either 2500 or 3500RPM!!! FUUUUGGGG!!!

 

Bluetooth sensor? Will where can I see information on this? What app does this work with? @MotorvateDIY

 

At the beginning, I made an iPhone app.
However, after about 1 month of testing, I realized it is a pain in the neck to always have to start the app, connect to Bluetooth and keep your display on and drain the battery (or always have it plugged into power)

This morphed into a "Bluetooth Sensor Server" that sends engine oil pressure, fuel pressure, manual transmission oil temp and differential oil temp to our "LCD mini-dash"

Then, we figured out how to enable and feed data to the GTR gauges that are built into the G37 / 370z navigation system.

Last month we designed the circuit boards and sent them to manufacturing:

The Bluetooth gauges have been in testing for almost 2 years and have worked perfectly every time!
The GTR MFD Converter and Bluetooth Sensor Server boards are being assembled and will be tested locally (Toronto) over the next few weeks.

Once the GTR gauges are rolled out, the next project to provide similar look/feel of the GTR gauges to non-nav G37s / 370s.

 

@MotorvateDIY that is awesome. I do not have nav. I guess there is no way to get this without it?