2010 with 251000 miles. Well I ordered and replaced the VVT solenoid on bank 2 based on removal and no resistance or movement in the solenoid based on P0021 and P0524 and it drove great for a week. After that I changed the oil because it had 4800 on it and that is a cause for the solenoid. I change the filter at 3000 btw. Drove another week and it drove great. This morning I reset the ECU/TCU down the street from work on the way in from the 32mi trip. On the way home I immediately got the 3500rpm stall, but it was different. It went a tad farther at 36-3800rpm and it was not as pronounced or hard. I still do not have a CEL all the way home after 32mi but now I have a pending code of P0021 again. Is it really the gallery gaskets?

 

Does the Torque app monitor oil pressure? I believe the car does not, it is just a temp switch and an external gage must be installed on these engines.

 

What is the gallery gasket failure pressure at 2k rpm?

 

I like to believe it's 30psi.

One way to find out is to drive around with that oil pressure gauge.

The 524 code usually points to Gallery thought certain times it been the VTC phaser or both. One of the ways I have figured it let's itself behave is by keeping the RPMS higher and shifting yourself past 3-3.5k rpm.

 

The G37 does not have a oil pressure sensor. Many have added aftermarket sensors/ gauges. I am still waiting (patiently) for Frank's @MotorvateDIY kit.

 

Like you and many others in the G/370Z community (this is a frequent question on the Reddit sub), I have also been trying to figure out how to monitor Transmission Pressure/Temperature and Oil Pressure/Temperature.

Specific to oil pressure, our cars use an Oil "Sending Unit": https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...saAqNWEALw_wcB

I run iOS, so the closest app to Torque Pro (Android only) is OBD Fusion ($9.99). Within OBD Fusion, you can download the Nissan Enhanced Diagnostics ($14.99) for your specific year (or pay more and get all Nissan PIDs for multiple years) and this includes many additional PIDs/CAN Bus Networks which are an extension of the generic PIDs that come with the free app. I found a PID called "Engine Oil Pressure Sensor" and attached it to a custom dashboard a few days ago (below), but haven't been out to test it since. Note that it is measuring mV (millivolts), so I'm not sure what the translation is to actual pressure, but I'm sure someone will know. I am worried that mV means that its a boolean function that measures a simple Yes/No to pressure; if my hunch is correct, then the sensor is of limited use and a different approach needs to be taken with an external guage: Observed Oil Pressure with a gauge - Nissan 370Z Forum

Everything I have read about the stock sending unit indicates that it measures pressure, but not specifically how. Since the Gallery Gasket is a known issue on the pre-2012 VQ37VHR, I know that someone has had to figure this out, and based on the fact that so many of the Z guys install external Oil Pressure guages, the stock oil sending unit and associated VID may not be enough.

I also posted something here, but the conversation took another path: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post4326131

Mounting an external guage inside the car may be tricky, but this fellow enthusiast offers some different options: https://ortizcustompods.com/infiniti.html

This video shows how to connect an oil pressure plate, but he doesn't do a production mount inside the car:

 

These cars do not use a "Oil Pressure SENSOR," rather they use a simple pressure SWITCH which is solely for the idiot light on the cluster. When oil pressure drops below ≈5-10psi the switch closes, grounds the circuit, and the oil light on the cluster turns ON. This is why folks are adding aftermarket sensors/ gauges and also why the apps can not read any data. No sensor, no data to read. As stated above, many are waiting for motorvateDIY's cumulative kit which should show oil pressure on the NAV center display without having to add a "out-of-place" gauge (IIRC).

If you notice, there is only 1 wire at the oil switch on the G/370Z, not 3 as is found on the pressure sensors on the 350Z and the GT-R. On those cars, the signal value is 1V with the key on/ engine off at the low end and 3V with engine running/ oil pressure at 80psi at the high.

Unfortunately, I am of no substantive help with this CANBUS stuff. It is way over my head. Folks like BULL, motorvateDIY, SonicVQ, and iCrap will definitely be more helpful with this coding stuff.

 

This is correct.

All nissan did was conevert the value between HR and VHR. Both engines have a "3 wire SENSOR" in that location assigned to give different readings. The only ones who brought actual wide ranging sensors were the DE and HR. Since Oil temp oveheat is more comment than low oil pressure Nissan switched to that.

Because the VHR uses a pressure switch it with a flag set at under 5psi it's almost never used. My switch was replaced by a gauge and switch was disconnected. Light still off....

I've been suffering from a p0011 for a year now, MPGs dropped 4 points, I have to keep it above 3k or it will throw me the code over time and I just dont want to deal with it.
I get a pinging around the 1500-2000 rpm if im in a loaded gear so I carry the rpms higher and shift into it slowly while I let off and continue with my day.

I have a spare engine that will go in the car eventually.

What I suspect my pinging is not in the pistons but my VTC bank 1 is going crazy. Logs show numbers all over the place, OIL pressure is erratic while it's happening but stable as soon as I clear those RPMS. The car does not like a loaded 1500-2000rpm event and the logs show the VTCs need to be very active during this RPM. Oil temps are running hotter which could make me a candidate of a slipped phaser ring.I've noticed a bit of oil consumption as well but I believe. Funny enough the car is still powerful and takes a beating, drives and runs every day.

I've never gotten a p0524. The only way I believe the code is set is by no movement at all from the VTC while the ECM is commanding but the cam sensor doesnt see the change.

You could buy a Stethoscope camera and remove Bank 1 VTC cover and send the camera down there and look for a broken gasket.

 

I thought about the borescope thing as I have one just don't think I'll see it. I started getting higher oil consumption and reduced MPG (again) about 3- months ago and thought it was because the oil switch to Castrol Euro 5w-40. I went back to Mobile 1. I do not see how you get the car above 3500 as mine just hits a brick wall. Is it ok to drive this car <3500rpm even if the gaskets are leaking?

Thanks a lot @ILM-NC G37S @socketz67 and @BULL for answering this, it really helps. You guys really are pretty knowledgeable. I'm going to drive it again in a few minutes and see if it hits a wall again as yesterday morning it didn't. I got it up to ~135mph on the way to work yesterday and all good until I started home.

 

If you already have the borescope give it a look-see. If it is the gasket I think you will see evidence of the break and/ or streaks of oil leaking from the perimeter of the gallery plates.

 

Is it ok to drive this car <3500rpm even if the gaskets are leaking? And no way the pressure switch has failed? Even though people run with it disconnected?

 

Appreciate the thorough responses @ILM-NC G37S and @BULL

So it appears that the mV based PID that I found in the ECM OBD module is measuring the following (1000 to 3000 mV):

"If you notice, there is only 1 wire at the oil switch on the G/370Z, not 3 as is found on the pressure sensors on the 350Z and the GT-R. On those cars, the signal value is 1V with the key on/ engine off at the low end and 3V with engine running/ oil pressure at 80psi at the high."

So if I see a value that is 0, or much lower than 1000, then it likely means that the oil pressure is roughly <5psi, which then would ground the switch and turn the oil indicator on correct? So there is no real value to that PID since the oil light will come on at the same time.

I have read alot on both excessive oil and transmission temps on the platform. I even saw that Nissan ran an external oil cooler on the Z when the outgoing 370Z model was being tested.

Any idea what the acceptable range is for both Oil and Transmission fluid temperatures since these can be monitored used a PID/OBD2 Reader and iOS/Android app?

Also, is there any reason to monitor transmission line pressure? Like the gallery gasket failure, others are trying to figure out if they can predict Valve Body/TCM failure in the G/Z/Q platforms by leveraging temp and pressure values.

 

Well, good news bad news. It was fine for the first 1/2 mile and then it wouldn't go over 2500rpm not 3500, 2500. Bucking like a horse. Went back to the house, cleared the stored P0021 code and had both P0021 AND P0524 pending again. Went for the same drive and it's fine all the way up to normal operating temp. No other noises from the engine. Could I have a new faulty/intermittent VVT solenoid? Still going to drive it and get my bore scope out probably Saturday. I'll update.

 

@socketz67 ​​​​​​, those voltage values that I posted are from the 350Z & GT-R (R35) FSM's. What is unclear is if those voltages actually represent a range of pressure or if they are a "cut-in/ out" value for the idiot light. What befuddled me is that no where can I find any table that shows a "pressure-to-voltage" range.
​​​​​​
There's a reason most go aftermarket... reliability/ accuracy notwithstanding.

 

Thanks again for the support man.