Here's a bit of context: I just finished the following mods/repairs:

• Replaced oil gallery gaskets
• Replaced spark plugs
• Replaced valve cover gaskets
• Replaced power steering cooler
• Installed oil cooler
• Cleaned throttle bodies
• Replaced serpentine belt

And along with that Ive added new oil, coolant, and power steering fluid.
Before starting for the first time, I put the car in clear flood mode to crank and get oil pressure. I then started the car, with clutch engaged and it idled smoothly for a few seconds. I then slowly disengaged clutch and the engine sputtered, so I turned it off. Now when I try to start the car, the dashboard lights up but nothing happens, no crank or anything. Ive tried disconnecting battery for 15min to reset ECU but that doesnt help. The battery itself is fine since I replaced it a month ago. Also OBDII scans dont show any engine codes. Any ideas on whats wrong?

 

Some type of anti-theft feature? Other than that, you should get some sort of crank as long as your battery and starter are good. Plugs and oil etc I believe are irrelevant to the cranking procedure unless you forgot to plug a wire back in and the system realized it. Have you tested your battery with a multi, and it has read over 12v? Maybe someone else can chime in that would know more about looking at individual sensors that may be tripped. For me it’s gotta crank anyway, it may not run, but it’s gotta crank, it’s a simple system. Battery to ignition relay to starter. Could there be something blocking the ignition? If everything else checks out it usually has to do with anti theft in my experiences with various cars (not Infiniti). If your engine was flooded, I would imagine it would still crank. You could have pulled all your plugs, coil packs, fuel injectors etc out and I think it would still try to crank, like when you do a compression test. Unless your starter is cooked?

 

Thanks for the reply @McBoing .
I checked battery voltage and it was sitting steady at 12.4, but I could double check. Ill also check starter to make sure its getting power. Anti-theft is something I haven't considered, but I have seen posts about it, so I could also check that. Ill post with more info later.

 

The only potential red flag I see is
How long did the engine idle before it started to "sputter?"

As others alluded to, the engine should still crank (turn over).

• Does the starter make any sound that it is trying to turn the engine over or is there dead silence?
• Have you checked the clutch interlock switches?
• The only "anti theft" that could be culprit is the ESCL (Steering Column Lock). Do you have any "key" icons on the dash? It is unlikely this is the issue as the engine ran, briefly, before you shut it off when it began "sputtering." Plus, this issue rarely affected 2008 models... Possible, but not probable.
• Does the steering wheel lock when you shut the car off and does it unlock when you try to start the engine? You should hear the ESCL module make its clicking sounds.

 

The engine was idling fine while I had clutch engaged. As soon as I started to let go it began to sputter (car was in neutral). Ill definitely checkout the clutch interlock switch as you mentioned. Otherwise, I don't remember if steering wheel locked when the car was off, but I think I could move it when it was "on", that Ill also double check. Also, I didn't hear anything from the starter when I tried to start. Pretty much silent.

Again, thanks for the pointers. Ill try out all of these suggestions when I get the chance

 

Anything like remote start or aftermarket alarms that go between the ignition sequence as well. I doubt that’s the case here but worth a check. My car had a unit tucked in behind the glove compartment to remote start. This was installed by the dealer I believe and the car starts with three lock pushes. There is a control module spliced in to my wiring there and I had to set it back up after the battery was swapped (I didn’t even know it had this functionality at the time). Just good for thought and outside the box.

 

There was no OEM Remote Start option for the G37 in the US market. This doesn't mean there isn't a aftermarket unit installed, however. But, being that the engine ran- briefly- and now will not even crank, leads me to suspect something else.

 

Correct, this was a non-oem option that some dealerships did install as well as a plentiful amount of aftermarket shops. Sorry for any confusion that may have caused.

 

Just a quick update: I tried starting again and I noticed that the "Clutch" light on the dash was still lit after pressing the clutch all the way. I also read this post: https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...on-switch.html and it seems like a similar situation to mine, so I think that switch is the first thing Ill check. Ive attached some images below


Clutch light on while clutch fully pressed


Dashboard after turning car "on"

 

I think you hit the nail on the head. I haven’t driven a manual in about a year (my 37 is auto). I feel silly for not remembering you needed to depress the clutch before the ignition will fire. Let us know what happens upon further inspection!

 

UPDATE:
The new clutch switch came today and I installed it, but still no luck. Same issue as before. I checked the connector for the switch with a multimeter and its getting steady 12v. I tried shorting the connector with a paperclip, but no luck with that either. Is there some relay I should check? Im not sure what else to do

 

Does the clutch light still function like you had mentioned before prior to your swap?

 

Yep, same as it did before

 

Here is a picture of my cluster. Disregard the engine light (I have to do an oil change). Mine is an '11 X auto, so there may be some differences.

Looks like you have a few illuminated ones including a charge warning. That could be normal on your model, but someone else may be able to chime in.

 

Yeah your cluster looks like what I have, except the 'AWD' light.