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Old Dec 7, 2021 | 01:15 PM
  #16  
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Yup. I could be driving a $16K R32 GTR if I were living in another state
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Old Dec 7, 2021 | 01:16 PM
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What's different about the GTR spark plugs? I thought the ones in our engines are the best ones available
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Old Dec 7, 2021 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by spoolin03
What's different about the GTR spark plugs? I thought the ones in our engines are the best ones available
I don't remember specifics but it's recommended by a tuner before tune, gapped to 0.30". It's probably just a combination of consistent quality, availability and price that results in the recommendation. I'm sure there are other similar or even technically better options.
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 04:07 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by BULL
From the Honda rule of thumb is that they will work, again at this point you need to take advantage of as much velocity as possible since you'll loose a bit going with bigger volume and at the end you'll be limited to your exhaust timing/duration.
At this point long tube headers are going to maximize your air setup, the pump can wait and this way you can actually put it up to the test.
And if I don't want LTH?

My plan is to go with FI resonated test pipes, Hallbuilt resonated Y pipe and SOHO dual exit for the exhaust setup.
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 10:52 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by AnotherVQ
And if I don't want LTH?

My plan is to go with FI resonated test pipes, Hallbuilt resonated Y pipe and SOHO dual exit for the exhaust setup.
You can do it as well. Seems like you dont want the noise(pun intended).

Seems like you want a maxxed 93oct daily driver. The combo will work, just understand that this exhaust will limit some gains, unfortunately the VQ will make power at it's loudests.

In my opinion LTH to a Y then a long resonator to a single pipe can offer both power and sound but sadly will need to be custom. Many stainless exhausts are thin metal and it's vibrations bleed into the exhaust.
Muffler shop pipe can quiet down a car a bit just on thickness alone.
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BULL
You can do it as well. Seems like you dont want the noise(pun intended).

Seems like you want a maxxed 93oct daily driver. The combo will work, just understand that this exhaust will limit some gains, unfortunately the VQ will make power at it's loudests.

In my opinion LTH to a Y then a long resonator to a single pipe can offer both power and sound but sadly will need to be custom. Many stainless exhausts are thin metal and it's vibrations bleed into the exhaust.
Muffler shop pipe can quiet down a car a bit just on thickness alone.
Maybe not maxed out because I probably won't do cams and I really don't intend on doing everything I just want to figure out something to get a little bit more out of it. There's a lot of talk of losing power on na when switching the manifolds. I don't know if I should go for those or for the throttle bodies or what.
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 03:16 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by AnotherVQ
Maybe not maxed out because I probably won't do cams and I really don't intend on doing everything I just want to figure out something to get a little bit more out of it. There's a lot of talk of losing power on na when switching the manifolds. I don't know if I should go for those or for the throttle bodies or what.
I've never truly seen any loss in porting other than financial which is a bit lower than throttles.
Throttles will have you porting the opening of the flanges at least but also has given folks/tuners some issues.

I dont consider cams as a fair "bolt on" but I mean maximizing the outside of long block bolt ons while keeping drivability
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BULL
I've never truly seen any loss in porting other than financial which is a bit lower than throttles.
Throttles will have you porting the opening of the flanges at least but also has given folks/tuners some issues.

I dont consider cams as a fair "bolt on" but I mean maximizing the outside of long block bolt ons while keeping drivability
Thanks. Currently I have the stillen catback, stillen gen3, FI RHFC and gt-r spark plugs with a tune.

Would you say this setup is reasonable as far as being a safe bet to gain power?:

SOHO Dual Exit catback
RHM 3" intakes with velocity stacks
HBP resonated y-pipe
FI resonated test pipes
ported upper/lower
TriggaSpec 76mm TBs
GT-R spark plugs
ECUTEK

I understand it may not be much but this is not a total waste, regardless of the amount per dollar being spent, right?

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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 04:09 PM
  #24  
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Are you on stock y-pipe?
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 04:09 PM
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You could have done ported upper and lower from Trigga for a package deal and sell him your current ones. Comes out to a reasonable price
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by spoolin03
Are you on stock y-pipe?
I have the one that came with the Stillen.

Originally Posted by spoolin03
You could have done ported upper and lower from Trigga for a package deal and sell him your current ones. Comes out to a reasonable price
I don't have upper and lower right now. I'm actually looking at his upper and lower currently. From what he said in a video I get the impression his TBs are port matched to his upper.
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 09:08 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by spoolin03
What's different about the GTR spark plugs? I thought the ones in our engines are the best ones available
GTR plugs are gapped differently and also said to be a step colder (heat range 8 by NKG, but the OEM Denso is a heat 24 which is a 8 for NGK). Heat range is selected based on detonation resistance and burning optimization.

A plug that's too hot (higher heat range) for your will cause detonation. A plug that's too cold (lower heat range) will cause you to run rich since it can't burn the air/fuel mixture completely and foul the plugs.

Spark plugs and fuel injector/pumps are support items rather than power mods. you will only see gains upgrading these if you are being limited by them.
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 09:11 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by projectpanda13
GTR plugs are gapped differently and also said to be a step colder (heat range 8 by NKG, but the OEM Denso is a heat 24 which is a 8 for NGK). Heat range is selected based on detonation resistance and burning optimization.

A plug that's too hot (higher heat range) for your will cause detonation. A plug that's too cold (lower heat range) will cause you to run rich since it can't burn the air/fuel mixture completely and foul the plugs.

Spark plugs and fuel injector/pumps are support items rather than power mods. you will only see gains upgrading these if you are being limited by them.
I changed the gap to 0.030"
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 10:06 PM
  #29  
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I previously had EPS TB and they were a pain on driveability. Rev hang and rpm surges. My tuner wasn’t able to tune it out.

with larger TB, the resolution is smaller so I can completely understand. But I have since sold the EPS setup and currently have the 75mm TB kit. My upper manifold has also been ported to 68mm with a transition adapter from 75mm to 68mm. The Trigger kit is similar where the adapter necks down from 75mm to the stock opening of 60mm.

I did this thinking I was going to boost my car.
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Old Dec 8, 2021 | 10:29 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by projectpanda13
I previously had EPS TB and they were a pain on driveability. Rev hang and rpm surges. My tuner wasn’t able to tune it out.

with larger TB, the resolution is smaller so I can completely understand. But I have since sold the EPS setup and currently have the 75mm TB kit. My upper manifold has also been ported to 68mm with a transition adapter from 75mm to 68mm. The Trigger kit is similar where the adapter necks down from 75mm to the stock opening of 60mm.

I did this thinking I was going to boost my car.
I've read online about tuners having issues with EPS TBs. I mentioned this to highmileracer and he said he didn't have these issues with the Triggaspec ones.

Since you seem to know about the Triggaspec one, what is your opinion on getting his upper/lower/TBs for $1250 shipped on NA? Along with 3" intakes with velocity stacks.
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