Heater Hose Connector
Thanks ILM-NC G37S - I replaced the coupling this morning and I'm glad because it just came apart while trying to remove it.
My G has 98K miles.
Anyways, this is the one I ended up using:
Brass fitting
My G has 98K miles.
Anyways, this is the one I ended up using:
Brass fitting
Sea Stories
Just ordered my kit (2 hoses plus connector) today from the eBay seller. Not paying $5 per clamp (need 4) and will just reuse the original ones. Hopefully that wont be a problem. Yes, @ILM-NC G37S is the man, continuously provides solid information to this community.
Yea - if it lasted 12 years on the original one, I probably wont have the car after another 12 years. I may just buy the Home Depot version anyways.
Did you drain some coolant first?
I'm a little reluctant to pinch the 10 year old hoses as they could become damaged in the process. I'm at 67K and the hoses and connectors look brand new, but I purchased the Dorman connector and plan to install it soon because even my local mechanic told me that the plastic connector is a problem waiting to happen. Thinking that I will need to don my Antman suite and leverage some Pym particles to reach the size needed to get my hands situated properly on those hoses.
Last edited by socketz67; Feb 21, 2023 at 11:30 AM.
Done! Whew!
2012 G 109K miles Dallas Texas area. Replaced connector just this morning used an aluminum replacement and used two(2) new spring clamps, took me several hours but it is done! The OEM plastic one looked OK, but maybe showing signs it was getting brittle very little coolant loss at connection when I took it apart but refilled and burped system Glad it is over. HA!
What process did you use to remove the original connector to avoid having pieces of plastic go into the block or heater core? One of the techs I spoke to recommended Hose Pinch Pliers: https://www.harborfreight.com/line-c...ece-63596.html
Did you drain some coolant first?
I'm a little reluctant to pinch the 10 year old hoses as they could become damaged in the process. I'm at 67K and the hoses and connectors look brand new, but I purchased the Dorman connector and plan to install it soon because even my local mechanic told me that the plastic connector is a problem waiting to happen. Thinking that I will need to don my Antman suite and leverage some Pym particles to reach the size needed to get my hands situated properly on those hoses.
Did you drain some coolant first?
I'm a little reluctant to pinch the 10 year old hoses as they could become damaged in the process. I'm at 67K and the hoses and connectors look brand new, but I purchased the Dorman connector and plan to install it soon because even my local mechanic told me that the plastic connector is a problem waiting to happen. Thinking that I will need to don my Antman suite and leverage some Pym particles to reach the size needed to get my hands situated properly on those hoses.
Sea Stories
2012 G 109K miles Dallas Texas area. Replaced connector just this morning used an aluminum replacement and used two(2) new spring clamps, took me several hours but it is done! The OEM plastic one looked OK, but maybe showing signs it was getting brittle very little coolant loss at connection when I took it apart but refilled and burped system Glad it is over. HA!
Red anodized plastic Rochester? I saw those on Amazon, but didn't realize they were plastic (assumed aluminum like Mike confirmed above). Went with the Dorman connector because it's tried and proven across other brands as well that decided to separate hard to reach hoses.
I read here somewhere that there is another connector like this on the driver's side, but I couldn't find it when I looked yesterday.
Thanks for the background Sea Stories (Naval reference?). I just recently did a drain and fill (write-up here), replaced upper and lower hoses, deep cleaned the reservoir and surround areas, changed the thermostat - everything went very well, so I kick myself for not changing that connector at the same time as I could have avoided the mess I'm about to make.
I read here somewhere that there is another connector like this on the driver's side, but I couldn't find it when I looked yesterday.
Thanks for the background Sea Stories (Naval reference?). I just recently did a drain and fill (write-up here), replaced upper and lower hoses, deep cleaned the reservoir and surround areas, changed the thermostat - everything went very well, so I kick myself for not changing that connector at the same time as I could have avoided the mess I'm about to make.
Last edited by socketz67; Feb 21, 2023 at 05:14 PM.
Red anodized plastic Rochester? I saw those on Amazon, but didn't realize they were plastic (assumed aluminum). Went with the Dorman connector because it's tried and proven across other brands as well that decided to separate hard to reach hoses.
I read here somewhere that there is another connector like this on the driver's side, but I couldn't find it when I looked yesterday.
I read here somewhere that there is another connector like this on the driver's side, but I couldn't find it when I looked yesterday.
The Original Heater Hose Connector is Made of Plastic. Our Improved Heater Hose Connector is Made of Aluminum. The Original Plastic Connector is Easy Break Which Can Cause a Coolant Leak. Our Aluminum Connector is a Great Alternative to the Original Plastic Connector.
LOL
That's the connector (92417) on the passenger side. I also saw the other one shown on the driver's side, but there isn't an adapter/connector like the passenger side, just a metal tube near the block which transitions to the firewall area and is met by a hose.
The orientation of that picture seems wrong though, like a reflection of the actual L/R setup.
The orientation of that picture seems wrong though, like a reflection of the actual L/R setup.
Last edited by socketz67; Feb 21, 2023 at 05:32 PM.











