Heater Hose Connector
NEVER! lol, ...I may live here for now, but I will always be a NY'er... 
...more than welcome. I just happened to have that info on hand from a previous search for parts. Good luck with the hoses, the front one (engine to connector) will turn a saint into a sinner real quick!
...more than welcome. I just happened to have that info on hand from a previous search for parts. Good luck with the hoses, the front one (engine to connector) will turn a saint into a sinner real quick!
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Feb 13, 2022 at 11:10 AM.
[QUOTE=ILM-NC G37S;4307225]NEVER! lol, ...I may live here for now, but I will always be a NY'er...
ha! Same here. But I moved away from NY 30+ yrs ago. But still root for the rangers/giants.
miss those NY delis and bagels
ha! Same here. But I moved away from NY 30+ yrs ago. But still root for the rangers/giants.
miss those NY delis and bagels
Amazon has a connector that's red aluminum for those that care, no bleeder = no leak potential. Downside - same cost as Z1.
Just putting it out there. I'll likely do this once I can take the car out of service for a while next month. (replace hoses and connector, not get this red thing). There are other 14mm metal options with bleeders than the Z1 IIRC...
Just putting it out there. I'll likely do this once I can take the car out of service for a while next month. (replace hoses and connector, not get this red thing). There are other 14mm metal options with bleeders than the Z1 IIRC...
There's another option, plastic but with a bleeder:
Tons of Amazon sellers of what appear to be the exact same thing. I'd go for metal, myself, but hard to beat $14.
Tons of Amazon sellers of what appear to be the exact same thing. I'd go for metal, myself, but hard to beat $14.
So I have the Z1 temp. sensor adapter bleeder port currently installed. It's been great for over 7k miles so far, but when I swap out my rad hoses again in the very near future I was thinking of switching to the bleeder port-only version - but am worried that O-ring seal will become a point of failure (as it did for the first reviewer on the product page who simply replaced it with a nicer O-ring a year later). I could just get a few Viton o-rings like they did and swap before installing it.
I just figured being EcuTek tuned now with my basic air-to-air supercharger plans I don't really have a need for a direct coolant temp sensor anymore, which was the original reason I went with the temp sensor version. The bleeder-only version seems easier in the long run since you don't have to mess with thread seals, assuming the o-ring holds up. Any thoughts?
I just figured being EcuTek tuned now with my basic air-to-air supercharger plans I don't really have a need for a direct coolant temp sensor anymore, which was the original reason I went with the temp sensor version. The bleeder-only version seems easier in the long run since you don't have to mess with thread seals, assuming the o-ring holds up. Any thoughts?
That’s my exact worry with the bleeder port version. The o-ring. I really don’t want to introduce a new possible point of failure.
I’m thinking of just throwing in a basic 3/4” non-plastic connector and calling it a day with one hold up.
Anyone know if you can/done the connector swap without draining the coolant and bleeding the system? The Z1 bleeder connector is supposedly miles easier to bleed the system with.
I have access to a coolant machine and used it to vacuum draw the old coolant and replace it previously. I’ve never had to use the factory bleeder screw that’s on the radiator IIRC. I don’t see how I’d be able to hold vacuum in the coolant system/lines and change the connector. Which means it’ll be a drain, fill, and bleed job.
I’m thinking of just throwing in a basic 3/4” non-plastic connector and calling it a day with one hold up.
Anyone know if you can/done the connector swap without draining the coolant and bleeding the system? The Z1 bleeder connector is supposedly miles easier to bleed the system with.
I have access to a coolant machine and used it to vacuum draw the old coolant and replace it previously. I’ve never had to use the factory bleeder screw that’s on the radiator IIRC. I don’t see how I’d be able to hold vacuum in the coolant system/lines and change the connector. Which means it’ll be a drain, fill, and bleed job.
That’s my exact worry with the bleeder port version. The o-ring. I really don’t want to introduce a new possible point of failure.
I’m thinking of just throwing in a basic 3/4” non-plastic connector and calling it a day with one hold up.
Anyone know if you can/done the connector swap without draining the coolant and bleeding the system? The Z1 bleeder connector is supposedly miles easier to bleed the system with.
I have access to a coolant machine and used it to vacuum draw the old coolant and replace it previously. I’ve never had to use the factory bleeder screw that’s on the radiator IIRC. I don’t see how I’d be able to hold vacuum in the coolant system/lines and change the connector. Which means it’ll be a drain, fill, and bleed job.
I’m thinking of just throwing in a basic 3/4” non-plastic connector and calling it a day with one hold up.
Anyone know if you can/done the connector swap without draining the coolant and bleeding the system? The Z1 bleeder connector is supposedly miles easier to bleed the system with.
I have access to a coolant machine and used it to vacuum draw the old coolant and replace it previously. I’ve never had to use the factory bleeder screw that’s on the radiator IIRC. I don’t see how I’d be able to hold vacuum in the coolant system/lines and change the connector. Which means it’ll be a drain, fill, and bleed job.
Glad I’m not alone thinking that might be a failure point… I still went ahead and ordered a set of Viton o-rings and will try out the standard Z1 bleeder port with them vs the Z1 temp sensor bleeder installed now. Hopefully I never need to replace the Viton o-rings, I’ll share what size I end up using. I hear you on the straight connector though, something to be said for simplicity.
Most people only replace the right (passenger) side as that is the one that almost always fails. There have been very few driver side failures but it can happen.
Replacing both is a judgement call only you can make...
Replacing both is a judgement call only you can make...
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From: Philly
Thank you! I ordered 2, cheap enough that it's peace of mind more than anything. Hopefully these coupled with the Z1 silicone hoses last another +100k! Approaching 95k now so gearing up to do some preventative stuff.
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From: Happiest Place on Earth
92401-JK20A (from connector to firewall (heater core)) ≈$10;
92402-JK20A (from engine to connector) ≈$12;
92417-JK20A (connector) for those who insist on using plastic ≈$14 (I used a ¾" brass barb fitting that I paid ≈$5 for)
01558-00521 clamps (need 4) ≈$11.20 EA. (much cheaper on eBay)
92400-JK200 is a kit that has the "front hose" with the connector pre-installed ≈$17
(all prices above estimated/quoted from http://www.discountinfinitiparts.com as of 31 Jan 2022.
There is a seller on eBay who has the whole kit (both hoses + connector (no clamps)) for $41.
92402-JK20A (from engine to connector) ≈$12;
92417-JK20A (connector) for those who insist on using plastic ≈$14 (I used a ¾" brass barb fitting that I paid ≈$5 for)
01558-00521 clamps (need 4) ≈$11.20 EA. (much cheaper on eBay)
92400-JK200 is a kit that has the "front hose" with the connector pre-installed ≈$17
(all prices above estimated/quoted from http://www.discountinfinitiparts.com as of 31 Jan 2022.
There is a seller on eBay who has the whole kit (both hoses + connector (no clamps)) for $41.
My G has 98K miles.
Anyways, this is the one I ended up using:
