Help Code P0705 transmission out - speed sensor
Code P0705 transmission out - speed sensor
Hi all,
2013 G37 Journey won't shift higher than third gear. Check engine code was P0705. I took it to the dealership and they said it was the transmission speed sensor. They want $2,300 to fix it.
I am reasonably mechanically inclined. I've changed out solenoids on GM 4l60e transmissions before. I have never messed with this transmission and this is my daily driver. I can borrow a car for a few days if I have to but I need to be at work on Monday/
Is this a DIY job or do they have to rechip it? I don't even see where I'd fill the transmission fluid, though I'm sure there's a place.
Sorry if this has been asked before. I searched the forums for "P0705" and didn't find anything.
Thanks
2013 G37 Journey won't shift higher than third gear. Check engine code was P0705. I took it to the dealership and they said it was the transmission speed sensor. They want $2,300 to fix it.
I am reasonably mechanically inclined. I've changed out solenoids on GM 4l60e transmissions before. I have never messed with this transmission and this is my daily driver. I can borrow a car for a few days if I have to but I need to be at work on Monday/
Is this a DIY job or do they have to rechip it? I don't even see where I'd fill the transmission fluid, though I'm sure there's a place.
Sorry if this has been asked before. I searched the forums for "P0705" and didn't find anything.
Thanks
Last edited by orava; Jun 4, 2021 at 08:28 PM. Reason: clarity
You might want to download this to see what is involved:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...F2013%2FTM.pdf
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...F2013%2FTM.pdf
You might want to download this to see what is involved:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...F2013%2FTM.pdf
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...F2013%2FTM.pdf
I've been looking at comments about valve bodies acting out like this. I hope that's not my problem. The dealership said the speed sensor.
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I looked into what it could have been since I was not happy with the report OP gave. The symptoms and code he threw leads to Transmission Control Module (TCM). Failure rates are noted around 115k miles and beyond.
The "book" lists this repair at 1.5 hours, that includes the ATF drain and fill.
I'm guessing they sold you the dealer part
A ready to go valvebody on ebay or your local rebuilder for this transmission (The Jatco RE7R01A) with a working TCM (Transmission Control Module) runs about $500-$600 depending on your market. The module is plug and play so there is no "rechipping" (module programming).
The cost for 3 gallons of Valvoline Maxlife ATF (Our tasters choice here on MyG37.com) should be no more than $60 at one of our valued retailers (Walmart, lol) do a proper flush while you are here, transmission is begging for it at 100k + Miles.
The ATF Filler Neck Adapter is available on Amazon for about $20 give or take depending on who is milling the item. And the pump required to do this task can be about the same.
This job can be performed on the street or in a driveway without powertools.
It will require:
a torque wrench, the bolt tightening sequence and torque specifications.
flathead screwdriver
socket wrench with 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets.
I guess they got you pretty good at the dealership, im unsure how your repair was $3400, even at MSRP on dealer parts ($2,200 MAX AND THATS PUSHING IT) and $200 per hour labor rate (Over charged like a mother****er)
The "book" lists this repair at 1.5 hours, that includes the ATF drain and fill.
I'm guessing they sold you the dealer part
Automatic Transmission Valve Body Part Number:31705-X987B (Or similar) at $1,400 or so.
And the delicious accompanying Matic J/S fluid at $20 a QUART (YOU NEED LIKE 5 OR 6 OF THESE LMAO!!!)A ready to go valvebody on ebay or your local rebuilder for this transmission (The Jatco RE7R01A) with a working TCM (Transmission Control Module) runs about $500-$600 depending on your market. The module is plug and play so there is no "rechipping" (module programming).
The cost for 3 gallons of Valvoline Maxlife ATF (Our tasters choice here on MyG37.com) should be no more than $60 at one of our valued retailers (Walmart, lol) do a proper flush while you are here, transmission is begging for it at 100k + Miles.
The ATF Filler Neck Adapter is available on Amazon for about $20 give or take depending on who is milling the item. And the pump required to do this task can be about the same.
This job can be performed on the street or in a driveway without powertools.
It will require:
a torque wrench, the bolt tightening sequence and torque specifications.
flathead screwdriver
socket wrench with 8mm, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets.
I guess they got you pretty good at the dealership, im unsure how your repair was $3400, even at MSRP on dealer parts ($2,200 MAX AND THATS PUSHING IT) and $200 per hour labor rate (Over charged like a mother****er)
Yeah... $3,400 at the dealership is robbery for this as Snaxxor points out. If you're able and willing to do this yourself (and it's not difficult really) then you can fix it for a few hundred bucks and a few hours of your time. As long as you get the right replacement part... keep reading...
I finally got my car running again after a very long process. See my post here that details the issues: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post4303426. Original code I received was a P0720 indicating speed sensor issue.
The resolution ended up involving ordering another full valve body/tcm combo that was indeed plug and play when I made sure to get a 2013 and earlier unit vs. the Q model version. For anyone in my position and willing to do this themselves beware that online sellers will state that the units for G and Q models (along with some FX, Titan, etc... Nissan models) are interchangeable... THEY AREN'T!! The VB itself is interchangeable and there are guys on YouTube swapping the V30 transmissions into their G models and only swapping the TCM, but the TCM itself needs to be from a 2013 or earlier model year. The way to check this is 1) The 4 digit code below "Hitachi" on the TCM must begin with a 3 or lower... it represents the last digit of the model year (eg. 201"3"). 2) If you're replacing the valve body, and assuming the solenoids are original, the first 2 digits on the solenoid numbers will represent the last 2 digits of model year (eg. 13XXX_X_X will be for a 20"13" model).
What surprised me was that replacing solenoids and TCM on my original valve body didn't fix the issue... it only resolved itself by replacing the body as well. I'm not entirely sure what was wrong with the VB in my car, but even after putting a correct TCM on it it still wouldn't get out of limp mode.
Total cost to me was 427 dollars for the VB/TCM (but you can find them cheaper than that), 50 dollars for a new speed sensor (which I'm not certain I really needed) and about 140 dollars in ATF (only because I drained and refilled the damn thing so many times trying to get parts that worked). I ended up reusing the fluid after the 3rd drain/fill and now that it is fixed have ordered 10 quarts of Matic S to get a nice clean refill. As noted by Snaxxor the tools you need are basic and I made do with a 19mm (for the drain bolt), 10mm for the pan and VB bolts, a 5mm hex and the ATF pump (10 bucks on Amazon). Depending on the condition of the pan gasket you may/may not have to replace that and can be gotten for 20 bucks on ebay.
One last note... after dealing with ebay sellers and Amazon sellers that weren't that great I ordered the last valve body from 5 Star Transmissions in Florida and they were fantastic! (https://www.fivestartransmissionparts.com/). I only point this out because during the whole ordeal it got pretty depressing trying to find a knowledgeable seller that would actually help to make sure the right part was sent. This place did... at one point I texted them at 10:30 on a Saturday night after the TCM replacement I tried didn't work thinking I'd get a call back Monday... she phoned me 30 seconds later to discuss the problem and make sure they overnighted me a replacement part for Monday!! That replacement part is the valve body/TCM that's in the car now and working... amazing customer service.
I finally got my car running again after a very long process. See my post here that details the issues: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post4303426. Original code I received was a P0720 indicating speed sensor issue.
The resolution ended up involving ordering another full valve body/tcm combo that was indeed plug and play when I made sure to get a 2013 and earlier unit vs. the Q model version. For anyone in my position and willing to do this themselves beware that online sellers will state that the units for G and Q models (along with some FX, Titan, etc... Nissan models) are interchangeable... THEY AREN'T!! The VB itself is interchangeable and there are guys on YouTube swapping the V30 transmissions into their G models and only swapping the TCM, but the TCM itself needs to be from a 2013 or earlier model year. The way to check this is 1) The 4 digit code below "Hitachi" on the TCM must begin with a 3 or lower... it represents the last digit of the model year (eg. 201"3"). 2) If you're replacing the valve body, and assuming the solenoids are original, the first 2 digits on the solenoid numbers will represent the last 2 digits of model year (eg. 13XXX_X_X will be for a 20"13" model).
What surprised me was that replacing solenoids and TCM on my original valve body didn't fix the issue... it only resolved itself by replacing the body as well. I'm not entirely sure what was wrong with the VB in my car, but even after putting a correct TCM on it it still wouldn't get out of limp mode.
Total cost to me was 427 dollars for the VB/TCM (but you can find them cheaper than that), 50 dollars for a new speed sensor (which I'm not certain I really needed) and about 140 dollars in ATF (only because I drained and refilled the damn thing so many times trying to get parts that worked). I ended up reusing the fluid after the 3rd drain/fill and now that it is fixed have ordered 10 quarts of Matic S to get a nice clean refill. As noted by Snaxxor the tools you need are basic and I made do with a 19mm (for the drain bolt), 10mm for the pan and VB bolts, a 5mm hex and the ATF pump (10 bucks on Amazon). Depending on the condition of the pan gasket you may/may not have to replace that and can be gotten for 20 bucks on ebay.
One last note... after dealing with ebay sellers and Amazon sellers that weren't that great I ordered the last valve body from 5 Star Transmissions in Florida and they were fantastic! (https://www.fivestartransmissionparts.com/). I only point this out because during the whole ordeal it got pretty depressing trying to find a knowledgeable seller that would actually help to make sure the right part was sent. This place did... at one point I texted them at 10:30 on a Saturday night after the TCM replacement I tried didn't work thinking I'd get a call back Monday... she phoned me 30 seconds later to discuss the problem and make sure they overnighted me a replacement part for Monday!! That replacement part is the valve body/TCM that's in the car now and working... amazing customer service.
Yeah, what can I say? I got screwed. One mechanic told me they don't mess with the inside of transmissions. I'm mechanically inclined but need my car for work and never messed with this transmission before.
If this was a hobby car, I would have messed with it myself.
I loved this car before this happened.
If this was a hobby car, I would have messed with it myself.
I loved this car before this happened.
I can totally relate as I would have done the same if I hadn't been able to work from home and sparingly use the wife's car when I needed to go in for meetings. In reality knowing now what I know this wouldn't have taken me 2+ months to fix, but it would have still taken about a week to get the part delivered. It comes down to the old joke about the Mercedes mechanic who knows where to tap the hammer to justify the 1k dollar bill. I loathed the idea of taking my car into the dealership (or any transmission place for that matter) when I knew it was a relatively simple fix and I only lacked the 1k bill knowledge to finally get it working. I hope that my experience with this helps out someone in the future...
Yeah, what can I say? I got screwed. One mechanic told me they don't mess with the inside of transmissions. I'm mechanically inclined but need my car for work and never messed with this transmission before.
If this was a hobby car, I would have messed with it myself.
I loved this car before this happened.
If this was a hobby car, I would have messed with it myself.
I loved this car before this happened.
I've been 'stuck' many times while doing '****' to my car and not having a car for work.
I've had to rent a car once just to get to work
It was nice when I had another car (weekend car) to get to work while I was working on my daily
I've had to rent a car once just to get to work
It was nice when I had another car (weekend car) to get to work while I was working on my daily






