When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I know it's been a while but I'm now going thru the forum with the same problem. I measured the voltages coming out from the ckp sensor connector and I am also getting 5V on pin 1, GND on pin 2 and 5V on pin 3. Did you ever figured out why you had 5V on 2 out of the 3 pins ?
The output of the crank sensor (pin 3) is only LOW (close to 0 volts) when the crank tooth is at the crank sensor.
Once the tooth moves away, the output switches to ~5v.
The output of the crank sensor (pin 3) is only LOW (close to 0 volts) when the crank tooth is at the crank sensor.
Once the tooth moves away, the output switches to ~5v.
I have the crankshaft sensor disconnected and I am measuring the voltage from the connector side. Pin 3 on the connector is supposed to be only receiving a signal from the sensor and not outputting a signal according to the FSM . But with the sensor off and key on , I am getting voltage close to 5 VDC at Pin 3. I'm thinking it may be the ECM at this point .
I have the crankshaft sensor disconnected and I am measuring the voltage from the connector side. Pin 3 on the connector is supposed to be only receiving a signal from the sensor and not outputting a signal according to the FSM . But with the sensor off and key on , I am getting voltage close to 5 VDC at Pin 3. I'm thinking it may be the ECM at this point .
It isn't the ECM, that is the proper voltage for a disconnected circuit.
With the crank sensor disconnected, the circuit inside the ECU will "pull up" the voltage to 5v. This is because the crank sensor can't switch to 5v, but it can strongly switch down to 0v.
If you want to do a static test of the crank sensor:
• remove the sensor from the engine
• with the sensor connected, measure the voltage on pin 3. Should be 5v
• put a magnet / metal object at the end os the crank sensor. Should be close to 0v
This will verify that the sensor is switching, but doesn't verify the quality/speed of the change in voltage. That requires a scope.
It isn't the ECM, that is the proper voltage for a disconnected circuit.
With the crank sensor disconnected, the circuit inside the ECU will "pull up" the voltage to 5v. This is because the crank sensor can't switch to 5v, but it can strongly switch down to 0v.
If you want to do a static test of the crank sensor:
• remove the sensor from the engine
• with the sensor connected, measure the voltage on pin 3. Should be 5v
• put a magnet / metal object at the end os the crank sensor. Should be close to 0v
This will verify that the sensor is switching, but doesn't verify the quality/speed of the change in voltage. That requires a scope.
What is the problem you are trying to fix?
That is a very important info I may have missed.
I was assuming on the connector side which is connected directed to ECM should be no output at all on key on and only receiving the output signal from the crank sensor . But you're saying that it's always held high on pin 3 and the crank sensor sinks that voltage from pin 3 to ground then my ECM may be working correctly.
The problem is Long delayed crank. Takes about 5 secs to start car. Idle flutters and I can't rev past 3000 rpm while driving or in park. Only code that's coming up is the P0335 for the crank sensor. It's basically in limp mode.
That is a very important info I may have missed.
I was assuming on the connector side which is connected directed to ECM should be no output at all on key on and only receiving the output signal from the crank sensor . But you're saying that it's always held high on pin 3 and the crank sensor sinks that voltage from pin 3 to ground then my ECM may be working correctly.
The problem is Long delayed crank. Takes about 5 secs to start car. Idle flutters and I can't rev past 3000 rpm while driving or in park. Only code that's coming up is the P0335 for the crank sensor. It's basically in limp mode.
You are 100% correct with terminal 3 at the connector. It has a 5V with key on with sensor off. I was able to borrow a DAQ to measure the crankshaft postion sensor output with car running at idle. Low is about 0.5V and high is 5V
Looking at the signal it seems like the teeth are in sets of 10s then a gap. So I think there is no broken or damaged tooth. Problem isn't solved yet but I can cross off the crank sensor and wiring because I have ran 3 new wires directly from ECM to CKP.
You are welcome and I'm glad you had access to a DAQ/scope to verify the crank signal.
The flywheel does have 3 sections of teeth, with each section having 10 teeth.
Here is the timing diagram from the factory service manual:
If your DAQ/scope is multi channel, it might not be a bad idea to verify the CAM / CRANK waveform relationships.
The extended cranking might be from the ECU trying to figure out what position the cam/crank is in.
With the engine off, unplug one cam position sensor and start the car. See if it starts differently.
Then turn off the engine, plug in that cam position sensor, and unplug the other one. See if it starts differently.
Also, watch the tach when starting the car, since it is driven only by the crank position sensor, this may give you an idea what the ECU is actually seeing.
You are welcome and I'm glad you had access to a DAQ/scope to verify the crank signal.
The flywheel does have 3 sections of teeth, with each section having 10 teeth.
Here is the timing diagram from the factory service manual:
If your DAQ/scope is multi channel, it might not be a bad idea to verify the CAM / CRANK waveform relationships.
The extended cranking might be from the ECU trying to figure out what position the cam/crank is in.
With the engine off, unplug one cam position sensor and start the car. See if it starts differently.
Then turn off the engine, plug in that cam position sensor, and unplug the other one. See if it starts differently.
Also, watch the tach when starting the car, since it is driven only by the crank position sensor, this may give you an idea what the ECU is actually seeing.
I was able to grab the data off the sensors over the weekend. This is at idle about 800 rpm. I can't find a place that lines up with the spec sheet or both my cam timing is off.
I was able to grab the data off the sensors over the weekend. This is at idle about 800 rpm. I can't find a place that lines up with the spec sheet or both my cam timing is off.
Have you made progress with your issue? Im having crank issues as well and this thread is the most useful I've found.
Have you made progress with your issue? Im having crank issues as well and this thread is the most useful I've found.
Yes, it was the bank 2 camshaft sprocket. The cam phaser ring which gives the signal to the camshaft sensor somehow spun out of place and pointed about 1.5 to 2 tooth off where it was supposed to be. I had to knock it back to the correct mark and she started right up beautifully. But the ring is pressed fit on so there is nothing holding it in place but friction. Ultimately, you'd have to replace the sprocket assembly to make sure that problem doesn't happen again.
Yes, it was the bank 2 camshaft sprocket. The cam phaser ring which gives the signal to the camshaft sensor somehow spun out of place and pointed about 1.5 to 2 tooth off where it was supposed to be. I had to knock it back to the correct mark and she started right up beautifully. But the ring is pressed fit on so there is nothing holding it in place but friction. Ultimately, you'd have to replace the sprocket assembly to make sure that problem doesn't happen again.
Amazing how many things it can be. My code has since returned 6 years after I originated this post. I’m looking into the very solution you ran into. Thanks for continuing the thread.
Yes, it was the bank 2 camshaft sprocket. The cam phaser ring which gives the signal to the camshaft sensor somehow spun out of place and pointed about 1.5 to 2 tooth off where it was supposed to be. I had to knock it back to the correct mark and she started right up beautifully. But the ring is pressed fit on so there is nothing holding it in place but friction. Ultimately, you'd have to replace the sprocket assembly to make sure that problem doesn't happen again.
My issue was my cams were in time but my crank was off by a few teeth. I ultimately found the solution in my bidirectional scan tool. I had to reset the variable valve timing solenoids. Once I did that, car fired up like nothing happened
My issue was my cams were in time but my crank was off by a few teeth. I ultimately found the solution in my bidirectional scan tool. I had to reset the variable valve timing solenoids. Once I did that, car fired up like nothing happened
