What happens if you bypass the switch altogether and try starting while shorting out the 2 pins in the connector that goes to the switch?

 

 

Lets hope that's the case. Any updates?

 

One terminal of the clutch interlock switch has 12v from the battery. When the switch closes it sends the 12v to the IPDM to activate the starter control relay
See page STR-7 in the FSM
There are wiring harness connections between the IPDM, the BCM, starter motor, CPU, and ground as well as relay contacts in both the starter control relay and the starter relay.

Good luck

Telcoman

 

This is going to have to sit for a while because I'm going on vacation.

Which means it's going to bug the crap out of me when I should otherwise be enjoying myself. Damn it.

 

I know the feeling. I have a htpc on the home network that's trying to call out to another local ip (on a different subnet) I haven't used in over year. Everything here now is on 10.x.x.x, not 192.168.1.x. Anyways, wasted two hours trying to track down the cause. Got nowhere. I only became aware of this when the firewall logs started showing a higher number of blocks than before. At this point i said fück it. Added a rule to the firewall to just block any such attempts and not log them. Problem solved.

If you have 10 minutes and feel like crawling into a cramped space, it shouldn't be too difficult to short out the connector and try starting. You'll probably need a helper to ensure the clutch pedal is at least partially depressed, enough to open the cruise switch.

 

Wait, are you saying the cruise switch on the pedal comes into play when trying to start the car? I find that had to believe, but I'm open to anything.

I can't get out there today. It's almost 100°F and humid as fck. It's going to have to wait until the end of the week.

 

 

You're speaking in riddles, man. The only coastline near me is Lake Ontario.

 

 

I don't know for sure, but I imagine it probably does. You can't have the pedal at the top and bottom at the same time, can you? Or it may start the car but throw a code of sorts? Really depends how the button logic is programmed into the ECU.

 

Paperclip bypass had no effect.

So one possibility is that the wire(s) became loose in the clip, making for an intermittent connection. Either the harness clip isn't receiving 12v on the one side, or the connection is severed on the other. Right? If two different Intermotor switches don't work, and a solid paperclip bypass doesn't work... I'm thinking the connection is loose. Actually, that's the only thing I can do without taking the car to the shop.

 

Or your paper clip doesn't conduct . Or there's some other issue elsewhere. Did you try probing for voltage between ground and either pin with the key in the run/on position (double press)?

Loose connection where... The connector for the switch leads into a wire hardness iirc.

 

There's 12v going through that circuit, verified with a multimeter. So there's nothing wrong with the position switch wiring, and I'm assuming the new switch functions, if not the old switch too.

I'm thinking my starter is toast.