Clutch Position Switch
08-05-2018, 08:48 PM
#16
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I let this project slide, and the car experienced three more no-start events. Yesterday was particularly bad, so today I went to swap the switch.
However, new switch, old switch... doesn't matter. Even tried manually depressing the switch in while pressing the ignition button, but it just won't engage. The dash lights up, but I get the "clutch" warning in the center, which I think means it doesn't recognize the switch being in a closed position. What could that possibly mean? I'm wondering if the wiring is loose at the clip somehow. Suppose now I have to get out a volt meter and test the connection.
Dammit. Thoughts anyone?
However, new switch, old switch... doesn't matter. Even tried manually depressing the switch in while pressing the ignition button, but it just won't engage. The dash lights up, but I get the "clutch" warning in the center, which I think means it doesn't recognize the switch being in a closed position. What could that possibly mean? I'm wondering if the wiring is loose at the clip somehow. Suppose now I have to get out a volt meter and test the connection.
Dammit. Thoughts anyone?
Last edited by Rochester; 08-05-2018 at 09:09 PM.
08-05-2018, 10:28 PM
#18
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pretty bummed out right now
08-06-2018, 11:29 AM
#20
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I let this project slide, and the car experienced three more no-start events. Yesterday was particularly bad, so today I went to swap the switch.
However, new switch, old switch... doesn't matter. Even tried manually depressing the switch in while pressing the ignition button, but it just won't engage. The dash lights up, but I get the "clutch" warning in the center, which I think means it doesn't recognize the switch being in a closed position. What could that possibly mean? I'm wondering if the wiring is loose at the clip somehow. Suppose now I have to get out a volt meter and test the connection.
Dammit. Thoughts anyone?
However, new switch, old switch... doesn't matter. Even tried manually depressing the switch in while pressing the ignition button, but it just won't engage. The dash lights up, but I get the "clutch" warning in the center, which I think means it doesn't recognize the switch being in a closed position. What could that possibly mean? I'm wondering if the wiring is loose at the clip somehow. Suppose now I have to get out a volt meter and test the connection.
Dammit. Thoughts anyone?
See page STR-7 in the FSM
There are wiring harness connections between the IPDM, the BCM, starter motor, CPU, and ground as well as relay contacts in both the starter control relay and the starter relay.
Good luck
Telcoman
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Rochester (08-06-2018)
08-06-2018, 12:16 PM
#21
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This is going to have to sit for a while because I'm going on vacation.
Which means it's going to bug the crap out of me when I should otherwise be enjoying myself. Damn it.
Which means it's going to bug the crap out of me when I should otherwise be enjoying myself. Damn it.
08-06-2018, 12:27 PM
#22
I know the feeling. I have a htpc on the home network that's trying to call out to another local ip (on a different subnet) I haven't used in over year. Everything here now is on 10.x.x.x, not 192.168.1.x. Anyways, wasted two hours trying to track down the cause. Got nowhere. I only became aware of this when the firewall logs started showing a higher number of blocks than before. At this point i said fück it. Added a rule to the firewall to just block any such attempts and not log them. Problem solved.
If you have 10 minutes and feel like crawling into a cramped space, it shouldn't be too difficult to short out the connector and try starting. You'll probably need a helper to ensure the clutch pedal is at least partially depressed, enough to open the cruise switch.
If you have 10 minutes and feel like crawling into a cramped space, it shouldn't be too difficult to short out the connector and try starting. You'll probably need a helper to ensure the clutch pedal is at least partially depressed, enough to open the cruise switch.
08-06-2018, 01:17 PM
#23
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I can't get out there today. It's almost 100°F and humid as fck. It's going to have to wait until the end of the week.
08-06-2018, 05:29 PM
#25
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08-07-2018, 04:28 PM
#27
Wait, are you saying the cruise switch on the pedal comes into play when trying to start the car? I find that had to believe, but I'm open to anything.
I can't get out there today. It's almost 100°F and humid as fck. It's going to have to wait until the end of the week.
I can't get out there today. It's almost 100°F and humid as fck. It's going to have to wait until the end of the week.
08-10-2018, 05:01 PM
#28
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Paperclip bypass had no effect.
So one possibility is that the wire(s) became loose in the clip, making for an intermittent connection. Either the harness clip isn't receiving 12v on the one side, or the connection is severed on the other. Right? If two different Intermotor switches don't work, and a solid paperclip bypass doesn't work... I'm thinking the connection is loose. Actually, that's the only thing I can do without taking the car to the shop.
So one possibility is that the wire(s) became loose in the clip, making for an intermittent connection. Either the harness clip isn't receiving 12v on the one side, or the connection is severed on the other. Right? If two different Intermotor switches don't work, and a solid paperclip bypass doesn't work... I'm thinking the connection is loose. Actually, that's the only thing I can do without taking the car to the shop.
08-10-2018, 07:49 PM
#29
Or your paper clip doesn't conduct 
. Or there's some other issue elsewhere. Did you try probing for voltage between ground and either pin with the key in the run/on position (double press)?
Loose connection where... The connector for the switch leads into a wire hardness iirc.
. Or there's some other issue elsewhere. Did you try probing for voltage between ground and either pin with the key in the run/on position (double press)?Loose connection where... The connector for the switch leads into a wire hardness iirc.
08-24-2018, 03:30 PM
#30
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There's 12v going through that circuit, verified with a multimeter. So there's nothing wrong with the position switch wiring, and I'm assuming the new switch functions, if not the old switch too.
I'm thinking my starter is toast.
I'm thinking my starter is toast.