Alagator28

Hi guys,

I followed this DIY: https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-i...le-bodies.html which is similar to the others I found online, since I have recently had the P0106 error code pop up, go away and come back again.

Since the cleaning, the car is driving badly...

Current symptoms: Starting the car (when warm or cold), it will rev to 2K initially and slowly drop to about 900 rpm after a few seconds and stay there. At a red light, it now idles around 800 RPM when it used to idle around 400-450 RPM. Putting the car into gear, it feels like it wants to move forward more than before. On the highway, going from 5% throttle to 0% throttle, you can feel a noticeable drop like the throttle is ON then OFF. Going from 0% throttle on the highway and just feathering it ever so slightly, you feel a jolt when it kicks in.

About the Throttle Body cleaning:

• I didn't unplug any electrical wires or anything that was not indicated to unplug from the DIY.
• I made sure that everything was re-plugged correctly. There is no problem here.
• Immediately after cleaning both throttle bodies, I started the car to see if the check engine light would disappear, and immediately noticed the high RPM at start. I assumed it just needed to adjust.
• I proceeded to clean the MAF sensors, no issues there, and the RPM at engine start didn't change.

Do you guys have any suggestions?


Thanks.


2011 Infiniti G37x Sedan

Rich11G37xS

I never touched my MAF sensors, I just cleaned the throttle bodies and have had positive results, I would say it has to do with your MAF. My G's RPM's were dropping at redlights, almost to where it sounded like it was going to stall, since Ive cleaned the throttle bodies, the RPMs have been where they need to be, also got better acceleration. Hope this helps 11G37xS

Alagator28

Thanks. The high RPMs happened immediately after throttle body cleaning and before MAF cleaning. I only did MAF to see if it would help.

Gio37

iTrader: (1)

here is an easy step-by-step procedure you might want to try:


g/l

KungFooFireman

I did the procedure above as well and it worked. Here is a most recent video procedure done by MotorvateDIY. The best way to do it is to just follow along with the video.

G37OB

Your car should idle around 700-800rpms. You need to do the relearn procedure, it will take care of your problems

Bostonreefer

subbed for vid

Alagator28

You guys are amazing, thank you! I'll try this later.

saywat?

iTrader: (3)

where did u get that info from? thats incorrect

llebcire

Make sure perform all steps correctly, in sequence and all the parameters are correct. When I cleaned mine last fall I did physically move them as they were filthy however didn't unplug anything and had the same symptoms of revving to 1500 - 2000 after start and a CEL. This process will fix the issue but you may need to do it more than once if you fail the first time.

-Eric

Parameters, i.e. preconditioning, before starting relearn sequences in videos:

1.PRECONDITIONING
Make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied.
Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.
• Battery voltage: More than 12.9 V (At idle)
• Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 105°C (158 - 221°F)
• PNP switch: ON (M/T models)
• Selector lever: P or N (A/T models)
• Electric load switch: OFF
(Air conditioner, headlamp, rear window defogger)
On vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is
started the headlamp will not be illuminated.
• Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
• Vehicle speed: Stopped
• Transmission: Warmed-up
- A/T models
• With CONSULT-III: Drive vehicle until “ATF TEMP SE 1” in “DATA MONITOR” mode of “A/T” system indicates
less than 0.9 V.
• Without CONSULT-III: Drive vehicle for 10 minutes.
- M/T models
• Drive vehicle for 10 minutes.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

^^What is PNP switch above for the MT's?

Alagator28

the video posted by KungFoo did the trick! No more issues so far and idle is steady at 600 RPM.

llebcire

Google indicates it's the park neutral position switch and on MT would be the switch for the clutch. I assume it means the clutch has to be out (foot off) when doing the procedure.

Ohers with MT experience please chime in.

-Eric

llebcire

Awesome!
-Eric

saywat?

iTrader: (3)

Yea when I do idle relearn I don't touch the clutch