tite_tite

Hello,

2010 G37 Sedan

So it looks like another hose leaked on me. It's the heater hose going to passenger side firewall

The hose to the firewall is fine but the one from connector to engine is leaking from under the coupler(I believe that's what it's called)

Does anyone know how much dealership charge to replace it? I see the leak from under the car but it looks pretty tight to get to. Has anyone replaced this before & if so, please give me some pointers.

Thanks in advance.

Veliz7

Having the same issue. I will most likely be tackling this on my own. At first I thought my old coworker (technician at infiniti) had said to replace heater core. After talking about it with him and also my service advisor, they said it was just the hose! 😅
I decided to see check and see where the actual leak was at, if near fire wall or near engine..and seen that it was at the joint of the two hoses. Will be having my wife buy the parts(works for a different dealership now but the dealer group owns infiniti where the wife and I used to work at) so shouldn't be that bad.
Will keep you updated and see if I can get some pictures or video/s!

tite_tite

Was able to replace.. PITA... but i recommend the following tool & remove clamp from passenger side. GL

tite_tite

Beside the heater hose, are there any other hoses in the area that coolant would flow thru?? I asked because upon inspecting hose after removal, I didn't see any leak. I may need to inspect hose again.

Thanks in advance

Veliz7

I wish I had more tools in my "tool box"..Managed with what I had. Will be definitely investing here and there on tools, specially since I want to start working on my car!

Well after I initially inspected, I thought it was the hoses the cause of the leak. So I had bought the 2 hoses at my DS and stopped at a auto parts to get some clamps, went with the ones that have the removable butterfly on them. I first started to with the two clamps on the middle where the pastic connector is at. Well right when I put pressure on the clamp and slightly shook it to "break it free" from the hose, the plastic connector gave up. So about an hour or so later I was at the DS again, now for the connector. When I tried removing each hose from the engine and the heater core, but found rather difficult. Since 1- I had new hoses 2-wasn't going to just replace the connector and 3-wasn't going to drive back and returned the hoses that cost me about 10 bucks or so.. I just decided to use my razor knife and facilitate the removal of the hoses. I inspected the all ready broken connector and as I tried taking it out from the hose it was just breaking apart piece by piece. The installation was WAY EASIER and FASTER than the removal. Maybe after each drive or so I would inspect to make sure clamps were tight and that no leak was present.

Will post pictures in a sec.....

tite_tite

Question: when u remove old hose, did coolant came out? I was afraid so i drained b4 removing old hose.

Though i like the easy aftermarket clamp, the dealership is ideal. It control pressure better IMHO..

Veliz7

Coolant did come out, I was prepare for it with something under the car to catch it in, plus grabbed some old rags to not have a lot of it go down fast. Overall tho not a lot of coolant came out and if anything it was mainly from the connection coming from the engine, but I was expecting it and tried to install the new hose and clamp fast!

Well only reason I went with aftermarket clamp was, because I read somewhere else how that style of clamp looses tension after years..and my car being about 9 years and at about 140K miles I went with the new clamps, BUT if I would've had the long reach pliers I would've just used the old ones, since they were on pretty good and with good tension still!!

Surfnazi

The oem clamps aren't meant to be reused

tite_tite

Sorry for late post for those inquiry bout parts & tip for removal. Hope this helps the next person

Parts:

tite_tite

Parts for repair

tite_tite

Replacement tips:

Before coolant draining, make sure you can remove clips from hose. The one to Engine is most difficult to get to. Remove engine cover & battery cover. Battery remove is not needed.

See tools from above post. The angle one go to hose clamp to engine. Position from passenger side gives best angle. The straight plier go to body hose clamp.

Once clamps can be remove, drain coolant. Do NOT remove hose until coolant is drained. See DIY for coolant drain. Connect all hose & connector to 1 piece be.fore installing. Put hose & clamp on engine first before one going to body.

Fill coolant & bleed. Hope no more leaks or missing coolant. GL

tite_tite

Replacement tips GL

antirice

iTrader: (2)

I had the same leak. The OEM plastic connector is garbage, mine was corroded on one side, I had to take some time to clean up all the corroded pieces inside the heater hose.

I bought an aluminum connector from O'Reillys so I don't have to deal with this crap in the future. Thanks Nissan for the garbage part.

As mentioned, the OEM clamps were a pain to remove due to the location and lack of space. I remembered I had to climb on top of the engine, kneel and reach down. I didn't have the long reach pliers, guess that would have helped. Replaced the clamps with worm clamps, much easier to deal with than those OEM tension clamps.

Highly recommend replacing this connector if you are changing your coolant.

dbl07

iTrader: (2)

What was the part number for the aluminum connector that you purchased from O'Reillys autoparts?

leszekml

I just went through this process, losing all the coolant because of a disintegrated coupler. The replacement part that I used was DORMAN 56430 (Heater Hose Connector). It is available from O'Reilly (it is steel not aluminum). So far it works well. No leaks. As somebody mentioned before the most difficult part was to remove the old plastic coupler without getting parts of it inside the hoses - I had to remove the coupler piece by piece - it was breaking at the touch of pliers.
Why Infinity did not recall this thing or at least does not replace it during routine service is beyond me. For $10 worth of part, there is a risk of premature failure of the engine...