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Help G37/370Z 7AT FAQ Mega-Thread!

Old 08-28-2017, 09:09 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by future62 View Post
Do you recommend a kit or piecing together the wires on your own? Also my G has like 45K miles.... is it too early to worry about a flush? I wanna get the low hanging fruit first.
Definitely piece it together, it's easier than installing an air intake. Just a bit time consuming crimping and such.

As far as a flush. Now would be a good time if you are doing a full flush.
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Old 09-02-2017, 06:12 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by future62 View Post
Do you recommend a kit or piecing together the wires on your own? Also my G has like 45K miles.... is it too early to worry about a flush? I wanna get the low hanging fruit first.
Originally Posted by Slatey View Post
Definitely piece it together, it's easier than installing an air intake. Just a bit time consuming crimping and such.

As far as a flush. Now would be a good time if you are doing a full flush.

BE CAREFUL DOING A GROUNDING KIT. I DO NOT RECOMMEND BYPASSING THE CURRENT SENSOR. HERE IS WHY.
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Old 09-06-2017, 08:08 AM
  #18  
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Nice catch!

Regarding the current sensor... what does the battery negative terminal currently connect to? I'd imagine it would have to be a chassis ground no? And yea it does look like it could take a much fatter cable.
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Old 09-07-2017, 01:55 PM
  #19  
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Have there been any changes in the 7AT through the gens or models? I have a 2014 Q60S coupe.
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Old 09-15-2017, 08:27 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ghoti View Post
Have there been any changes in the 7AT through the gens or models? I have a 2014 Q60S coupe.
I'm not sure, but I think up until 2015 they were the same.
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Old 03-16-2018, 01:41 PM
  #21  
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L10 advice.

I have a stillen kit, uprev tune, and hi flow cats on a G37x with 7AT. ~ 400whp depending on the day.

I also have a transmission oil cooler. I talked with Pat at L10 a long time ago about transmission upgrades. His advice was:

1. Wait for the transmission to fail before sending it to him for bulletproofing. Doesn't cost more.

2. With oil cooler, and not increasing boost, transmission may not fail for a long time, or never.

3. I should send him the torque maps for my uprev tune and he could improve the transmission tuning, reducing the lag from hitting the paddle shifters and actual shifting.

That was 40,000 boosted miles ago. With the transmission cooler, I haven't noticed any degrading of performance.

I have drained and filled the transmission twice; which changes ~half the fluid. Once when I put in the cooler, and again a few months later when my WIX plastic inline magnetic filter exploded. Using Amsoil Sig. Series fuel efficient synthetic fluid, not Nismatic S. FYI, the 7AT pressure is much too high for a plastic filter. Use a welded metal or billet filter.
I use the same amsoil fluid in my supercharger. Amsoil says it is compatible with Nis S. After all, Nissan doesn't actually have a refinery making their precious fluids.
Haven't sent Pat my torque tables yet. Did a grounding kit and I am satisfied with the transmission at this point.

As for fluid changes, my personal feeling is they should be done every 30,000 miles or so; and never do a flush. The chances of f'ing something up with a flush are too great.
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Old 03-16-2018, 02:00 PM
  #22  
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"Sealed" transmissions

Some manufacturers stopped putting in AT dipsticks and filler pipes, as well as service intervals, for the following reasons:

1. With newer transmissions and synthetic fluids, they are confident the vast majority of trans will outlast the warranty (barely) without service.

2. Incorrectly filling (overfill, wrong flluid) or flushing will increase warranty claims.

3. Filler pipes and dipsticks allow contaminant entry.

4. Customers like stuff that is maintainance free. They also like plastic engine covers so they are not offended by seeing actual engine parts.

Repair histories I've seen suggest under normal conditions, the transmission should last 100,000 miles with no service, then fail soon after.

If you are reading this, your car ain't experiencing normal conditions! A fluid drain and fill every 30,000 miles or so is cheap insurance, considering the expense and hassle of a repair.

If boosting, racing, or driving hard, I would put in a cooler and inline mag filter. Again, very cost effective compared to repair / replacement.
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Old 03-16-2018, 03:28 PM
  #23  
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Why a magnetic filter? Most of your contaminates will be shredded clutch pack material.
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Old 03-16-2018, 08:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by mhadford View Post
I have a stillen kit, uprev tune, and hi flow cats on a G37x with 7AT. ~ 400whp depending on the day.

I also have a transmission oil cooler. I talked with Pat at L10 a long time ago about transmission upgrades. His advice was:

1. Wait for the transmission to fail before sending it to him for bulletproofing. Doesn't cost more.

2. With oil cooler, and not increasing boost, transmission may not fail for a long time, or never.

3. I should send him the torque maps for my uprev tune and he could improve the transmission tuning, reducing the lag from hitting the paddle shifters and actual shifting.


That was 40,000 boosted miles ago. With the transmission cooler, I haven't noticed any degrading of performance.
I have drained and filled the transmission twice; which changes ~half the fluid. Once when I put in the cooler, and again a few months later when my WIX
plastic inline magnetic filter exploded. Using Amsoil Sig. Series fuel efficient synthetic fluid, not Nismatic S. FYI, the 7AT pressure is much too high for a plastic filter. Use a welded metal or billet filter.
I use the same amsoil fluid in my supercharger. Amsoil says it is compatible with Nis S. After all, Nissan doesn't actually have a refinery making their precious fluids.
Haven't sent Pat my torque tables yet. Did a grounding kit and I am satisfied with the transmission at this point.

As for fluid changes, my personal feeling is they should be done every 30,000 miles or so; and never do a flush. The chances of f'ing something up with a flush are too great.
Well that's good news for the cash strapped who want boost. Great.
I have read many times "Don't boost in 5,6,7 gears. The clutch packs are weak"
What exactly does that mean? That you can only shift into those gears below 3000rpm?
Is that what you have done to keep your auto from destroying itself?
It would be nice to know how you use your boost since you are one of the few that did not grenade the stock 7AT.
Thanks for the info.
Much appreciation for those who share this stuff!
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Old 04-24-2018, 09:19 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by mhadford View Post
I have a stillen kit, uprev tune, and hi flow cats on a G37x with 7AT. ~ 400whp depending on the day.

I also have a transmission oil cooler. I talked with Pat at L10 a long time ago about transmission upgrades. His advice was:

1. Wait for the transmission to fail before sending it to him for bulletproofing. Doesn't cost more.

2. With oil cooler, and not increasing boost, transmission may not fail for a long time, or never.

3. I should send him the torque maps for my uprev tune and he could improve the transmission tuning, reducing the lag from hitting the paddle shifters and actual shifting.

That was 40,000 boosted miles ago. With the transmission cooler, I haven't noticed any degrading of performance.

I have drained and filled the transmission twice; which changes ~half the fluid. Once when I put in the cooler, and again a few months later when my WIX plastic inline magnetic filter exploded. Using Amsoil Sig. Series fuel efficient synthetic fluid, not Nismatic S. FYI, the 7AT pressure is much too high for a plastic filter. Use a welded metal or billet filter.
I use the same amsoil fluid in my supercharger. Amsoil says it is compatible with Nis S. After all, Nissan doesn't actually have a refinery making their precious fluids.
Haven't sent Pat my torque tables yet. Did a grounding kit and I am satisfied with the transmission at this point.

As for fluid changes, my personal feeling is they should be done every 30,000 miles or so; and never do a flush. The chances of f'ing something up with a flush are too great.

Do you mean you are against flushes from a DIY perspective, or the concept as a whole? I would think that a flush would be beneficial here if you are using the machine to do. Straight fluid transfer, old to new. I've heard some stories about particulates being dislodged from the process and royally borking things up when it moves around in the system, but it's more stories than actual evidence. Curious to hear your thoughts, and thanks for chiming in with the information!
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:05 PM
  #26  
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Hello Can I suggest a TMC Motorsport TCU Auto Flash

Hello, I have a G37 sedan and I have everything you can imagine for a N/A, except headers, turbo, or supercharge I have a VR Autoflash from the U.K. for about two years, it works but then it automatically resets and you have to reinstall and tune it when ever it happens. I have the old version a red obd2 that has been discontinued and vivid racing or agency power stop selling. With me researching a TCU flash, I found a few options and recently came a cross the black tool version now for 2018 from TMC sports.
I didn't want to purchase another one for my g37 but it was my wife's birthday this October and she owns a 2016 Mazda 6 and she loves how my car performance and enjoys taking it to work because it's fast when she needs to step on the gas compare to her Mazda 6. So I surprised her and spend about $5,000 including install of custom axle back exhaust, jbr racing sway bars, bilstein b8 front shocks and Koni yellow rear struts paired with vogttland springs, stoptech slotted brakes, megan racing front strut bar(extremely happy with it for this application, $65 on Amazon deal), mygenius tune, Injen CAI, pedal commander, and a auto transmission oil change
I had to list all this so that I can further explain my experience driving with this set up and it was very fast after with all this upgrades but what suck was the gearing of the transmission is horrible, slow as crap and it just didn't match up to the new upgrades the engine has now. Behold and guess what I purchase TMC Motorsport Automatic flash from the U.K. it was $400 shipped within a few days I order to the United states.
My first impression was like okay simple tool like mines but black that ones you install the tune is saved for ever, or until someone programs another tune or update thru the eco, you need to tune it again. It has unlimited tunes ones it marries your vin# and ecu.
ones I did the simple installation I followed all instructions to tune the transmission, after I drove it for 20 miles and maybe another five more in the morning. I didn't feel any change, so Inwss like oh crap it's not gonna work. So later that day I drove another 20 miles and after I felt like okay it's working a bit and got extremely happy.
The next day I warm up the car to drive a 50 mile roadtrip to fully test its capabilities. As soon as I stepped on the gas it was so much power unleash and the way it change gears was like on point for upshifts and downshifts instantaneously you can feel the difference from night and day you won't be disappointed. I love to drive my wife's car everywhere now it's fast compare to how it was before and it keeps up with a lot of brand new sport cars that are more powerful stock. I also want the transmission level 10, but until I have that, I will need a twin turbo and built motor setup to justify it. For now I'm going to wait for black Friday sale and purchase the tmcmotorsports Automatic Flash. : )
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Old 11-08-2018, 09:14 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Invaderzim View Post
Well that's good news for the cash strapped who want boost. Great.
I have read many times "Don't boost in 5,6,7 gears. The clutch packs are weak"
What exactly does that mean? That you can only shift into those gears below 3000rpm?
Is that what you have done to keep your auto from destroying itself?
It would be nice to know how you use your boost since you are one of the few that did not grenade the stock 7AT.
Thanks for the info.
Much appreciation for those who share this stuff!
Late reply, but from what I've gathered reading on the 370 forums is: this means you don't romp on the gas at low RPMs while in 5-6-7. If you're cruising in any of the top three gears and need to make a maneuver, you downshift into 1-4 (whichever makes the most sense given your speed) and bring the RPMs up before going WOT. It's my understanding, that the sudden load put onto 5-6-7 is what causes them to give at low RPMs.

Again, this is just my interpretation of it and if someone else would like to add or correct this interpretation - please do.

Lastly, a friend of mine worked at AAM and said on boosted applications, that kept the WHP under 500, a level 10 valve body upgrade seemed to be more than enough to handle to power. If this is the plan, I'd throw in an upgraded Sebring cooler for peace of mind and call it a day. Going any more than that though, you may want to consider the bullet proof build.
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Old 11-08-2018, 08:30 PM
  #28  
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Thanks for the reply! I mostly use sport mode with manual upshifts and only get into 7th when on the open highway so the "no boost" approach doesn't sound so hard to resist. 6th gear seems quite enough for most driving unless I'm over 80.
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Old 11-08-2018, 09:49 PM
  #29  
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All new automatic transmissions are not tune to the fullest capacity, and thank God for the workers who got fired from car manufacturers that saw that they where ripping faithful customers and just human beings in general, they came with great products for the aftermarket consumers. I want that level 10 transmission since 2013 but my car was to new and still has 96,000 miles for being a 2010. I'm about to purchase that tmcmotorssport black auto flash gearing tool just because the old school one was the first one to exist and ofcourse is going to have flaws but the new auto flash works way better. This tool gives you instant torque and horsepower specially if you have a uprev or tune. Search Transmission Control Unit Module and you will exactly understand me and the TMC Motorsports TCU Flash autogearing. Happy motoring.
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Old 11-09-2018, 10:11 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Skylineactiv16 View Post
All new automatic transmissions are not tune to the fullest capacity, and thank God for the workers who got fired from car manufacturers that saw that they where ripping faithful customers and just human beings in general, they came with great products for the aftermarket consumers. I want that level 10 transmission since 2013 but my car was to new and still has 96,000 miles for being a 2010. I'm about to purchase that tmcmotorssport black auto flash gearing tool just because the old school one was the first one to exist and ofcourse is going to have flaws but the new auto flash works way better. This tool gives you instant torque and horsepower specially if you have a uprev or tune. Search Transmission Control Unit Module and you will exactly understand me and the TMC Motorsports TCU Flash autogearing. Happy motoring.
Uhm...

'The all-new TCU Flash Tool integrates with the vehicles onboard communications network via OBD to access the ECU, TCU and Convenience modules to adjust/reset the shift strategies within the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) control components to "point" or “re address” these strategies to the best and most optimal settings.'

'This includes changing the transmission shift speed pointer to a faster/different setting. The internal components that make up the mechanics of the transmission have a wide range of tolerance and multiple settings allowing manufacturers in most cases to use single components across a whole range of vehicles, from a VW golf to a Lamborghini Aventador. They all contain similar if not the same generation components, usually built in the same factory, but have model specific programs that are used for their specific application.'

No.

The fact their "explanation" is all transmissions are the same should be more than enough reason to give this snake oil a wide birth.
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