bone stock car last year I added test pipes and thats when it started.
figured it didnt like the pipes so I bought HFC. It was less but still there and absolutely noticeable. Thats why I kept saying a tune would fix it.. so i proceeded to full bolt on and tune. That obviously did not fix the issue at all. Helped a little but still there. I was tuned with a 2.5 obx catback. I decided to buy a motordyne catback as I love the sound. So I asked my tuner if i could put it on without retune he said no issue. So I installed and went for a drive got on it and hesitation was gone.
have had the motordyne 4 months now and no hesitation until a few days ago when I put the oem catback back on. And now with the motordyne back the hesitation is now gone again.

 

When you've experienced the issue with the OEM catback, etc., did it happen every time you turned the car on or only intermittently?

 

Yea I have this issue as well, but mine is a 2010 g37x 7AT, ever time I drive I let the car warm up, when leaving my neighborhood at parking lot speeds I tap the throttle and hold it, it feels like it has 20 horsepower and then after a second I feel a shove in my seat like it has 100 horsepower but then back to 20 horsepower after another few seconds and doing that if I hold the throttle, when i accelerate from a stop sign or stop light I’ll accelerate progressively but the car will bog and have little power even when I’m giving it smooth throttle input (feels like it’s jerking when I give smooth throttle inputs), looks like I don’t know how to drive a manual even thou it’s a 7AT, but once the revs go passed 3k like 3.2k rpms and or I give it like 50 percent throttle it goes with no issue, even sometimes when I accelerate from a stop there’s a second or 2 delay before it actually goes, when I drove the car yesterday at night it was around 87 degrees but pulling away from my parking spot it felt good, I put only like 5 percent throttle just tapping the throttle and it goes smoothly but once I hit that stop sign it felt slower I’ll have to give it more throttle input, I’ve done what everyone else has done (TB, MAF, spark plugs) my car is stock just a muffler delete and dry drop in filters always shell 93 even sometimes i put octane booster and redline fuel system cleaner and none worked, changed the oil with PP 5w30 after I got the car, then redline 5w30 and last oil change with Mobil 1 0w40 and none of those oils felt any different, bought the car used in September 2019 with 97k miles, now has 104.8k miles, this issue really makes me frustrated, I can’t drive the car smoothly, makes me want get rid of it, it’s that frustrating.

 

Throttle bodies went in last night... unfortunately, the problem persists .

It's low 90 degree temps with some humidity today, and I did a good bit of spirited driving as well as intentionally sitting in city traffic to try to prompt it. Went about 40 miles or so to ensure the ECU was settled in. Seemed like it took longer to happen than it usually would under similar circumstances, but as we all know, this issue is inconsistent in the best of times. Additionally, a number of variables changed because after the install, I also did ECU reset / accelerator pedal relearn / throttle closed relearn / idle air relearn.

Initially, I was optimistic because it seemed like it wasn't happening, but I felt hints of it here and there just noticeable enough to keep me from fully feeling out of the woods, but ultimately it became so noticeable that there is no question it's still happening.

Last time I decided to put effort into trying to address this, I did the following:

• Cleaned TBs
• Cleaned MAFs
• Cleaned / Re-oiled intake filters
• Used fuel system cleaner
• Added octane booster
• Replaced spark plugs
• ECU reset and other relearn procedures

I did all the above, and for a brief amount of time it felt like a totally different car. It was unquestionably better than I had ever experienced before, even compared to occasions when the car was NOT having the issue and was behaving "normally". I could chirp the tires if I wanted in second just by applying throttle, and in any gear (even 6th), a bit of toe resulted in immediately feeling pushed back into the seat.

I have never been able to recreate that, but to have experienced the car's full potential briefly only makes it all the more disheartening that there seems to be no clear path forward in solving this issue.

 

I am finding it hard to believe different mufflers would help correct the issue, but I do have stock exhaust myself...anyone else not have this problem with a different set of mufflers?

 

i went to fast intentions cbe, and rhfc prior to any other mod and it didn't change mine. It wasnt until i swapped intakes, throttle bodies, and got tuned that it didn't happen again

 

No not mufflers, exhaust diameter piping. I had the same hesitation with a 2.5" exhause but no hesitation with 3" exhaust

 

Bringing it back from the dead. Has anyone came with a solution? It is so frustrating. I've noticed that once it starts doing this, I turn the car off and then back on....problem is gone, though eventually comes back again.

 

Update: I think I solved the problem for my car - I think new throttle bodies helped lower the frequency with which this was happening, but more recently I replaced the fusible link at the positive lead on the battery and also cleaned up all the connections and posts at the batter terminals. Haven't had the issue since.

I'd often seen a BCM code for low voltage throughout my ownership of the car; lately, I had some bad electrical issues where the car was sporadically sputtering on the highway and cutting power to the dash and entertainment console, etc. Not a great thing to have happen at 80 on the freeway! In RCA-ing that, people recommended replacing the fusible link; it was like $25 at the Infiniti dealership. Super easy to do and also really cheap part. Apparently the narrower pieces within the fuse linkage can start to corrode and cause issues - I had also bent the previous one a bit to accommodate wiring for an aftermarket amp.
Definitely recommend this fix! For the cost and time investments required, it certainly is worth a try. It figures that I figure out and solve this just as I'm getting ready to sell the car

 

Great to hear. Thank you for your dedication on the problem. I was reading your replies as you tried many things.

 

I have no idea if you're still active, if you are I'd love to talk to you about your old car. I recently bought a 12 g37s Sedan that I think belonged to you. (At least 99% sure) I'd love you hear about things the dealer didn't know. History and whatnot. I do have questions on how the after market amp was wired up.

 

Hey - not super active but saw this message as a notification in my email. Shoot me a DM on here and we can figure out a time to chat.

 

I posted a visitor message with my email. You can email me any time and we can figure something out. Don't want to take much of your time, honestly just looking for a quick rundown on your history with the car. Mods, Maintenance, annoying issues lol. Thanks for your time!

 

Tags: sputter hesitate miss

Back in my RX7 FD3 days if the grounds and battery connections weren't up to perfect, the thing would potentially sputter. I tried cleaning all the grounds I could find and nothing real bad. The ones on the front of the engine to the LF fender well and the terminals on the battery and the battery. NO DICE! Injector cleaner in the tank now and hopefully that will help but I doubt. This first started about a month ago with the car suddenly not wanting to move from a light with no warning like water in the fuel or clogged injectors but no codes or CEL. I shut the car off and waited for a while it almost went away but only happens when the engine is warm.

One of the things I have noticed is that after the car is started cold it is almost nonexistent but after it is warmed up to full operating temp it starts. Also when the car sits for 30min it is not as noticeable but then within a mile it starts up again.

I have attached videos. Yes the car just turned 229k miles and yes the exhaust is crap sounding with no cats and "kustom Speed Culture spec" exhaust and bananas resonance at 3200k, front mounted intake, nothing else. Replaced the coils (cheap *** fleabay set) and plugs, new post cat O2 sensors with 90* adapters AND extension (for no CEL) about 3000mi/2mo ago. 7sp AT trans oil changed a year ago and other driveline just 2 mo ago. It was all great until now.

Given what all others have tried I don't have much hope. Will call Soho in the morning and get a fuseable link at the $tealer. To be continued...

 

Well, cleaning TB and MAF's didn't do anything.