Bought the car over a year ago at 90k miles and it has 110k now. I now have the money to start putting money into it to make it faster. Would the motor still be good to do bolt ons and then twin turbo? I don't beat on it every day. It runs perfect. I'm replacing the transmission soon because the syncros are bad and grinds alot. Any recommendations? Just because it's '' higher milage''doesn't mean it won't hold power

 

I'm in no way an expert in FI builds, but from what I've read, you should have enough funds to cover a rebuild and a second car if things go south. IMO it'd be cheaper and safer to just buy a car that has a factory turbo (STi, evo, 335i) than risk losing $10k on parts/install and car value.

 

"Sometimes just because you can do something doesn't mean you should" - Some guy one time

 

Don't boost until you have money to build the motor properly beforehand.
Adding twins CAN BE done fine with stock internals but why risk having to do the same thing twice...?
Read up on all the boost builds on here and the370z forum to get a better idea of what it takes to get power out of the VQ.

 

Leak down test and compression test would be where you should start. Stock block can hold 450 whp reliably. Charles from CJM has 70k miles on his car and runs it at 600~ WHP and it's stock block too. But always keep money on the side or have a second car just in case it blows. I have been planning to single turbo my car for a while now but like kickintheglass said, I might just buy an evo X and play around on that. Stock turbo cars are way more reliable even on high boost.

 

I'm not looking to get like 600 wheel. Just like 450ish wheel

 

Its a MUST to have a daily driver separate from your project car. There's no way you can have your car down for a build while still getting to work and get groceries etc. Unless you rely on public transit then no big deal. Other than that, yeah, mileage is just a meter showing how far you have driven. As long as the motor has good compression results then go for it. As stated above, 450WHP can be had no problem on the stock block and heads. Don't bother with any bolt ons since they are all going to be traded for FI parts anyway. Pretty much the only swappable parts for NA/FI are gonna be the mid pipe back.

 

Thanks for the info. I have a suv I could drive. But if I plan on doing turbo some time in the future it'd be pointless doing any bolt ons? Because I wanna do full bolt ons and run it like that for awhile then sooner or later throw money for turbos but then I'd have to get rid of everything?

 

By the sound of your question, no offense, but it sounds like you don't know even the basics of how a turbo works. In the most basic of explanations, a turbo is part of the exhaust/intake so getting cold air intake and high flow cats, y-pipe etc will just be pointless. You'll have to turn around and sell them later to get the right parts. They are NOT interchangeable.

 

Most of what you've been told here has some merit but in my particular case it's like this: I don't have a built motor, turbo been on for 50k miles and 7 years, still running strong, been up to and over 600whp but I normally run it at spring pressure which is 425whp. I also don't have a second car and neither have I needed it much, I've had some downtime when I replaced the clutch but not any more than you would have with a stock car. I didn't build it myself, I bought the car from a previous owner who had it built, I owned another G at the time that I was considering going FI with but I've decided to just trade it for a car that's already built, some people look down on this type of thing but personally I think that if you are not doing all the work yourself - than just save yourself time money and headache and buy a boosted car, be it a G or something boosted from factory like 335/evo/sti.

 

As others are stating, just because you have the finances to turbo it doesn't mean you should. If you are going for ~425, why not supercharge instead?

I'd try to find a lower mileage G than turbo one with higher mileage personally

Nick C.

 

I vote to tubo that BiAtCh!!!

 

In short, as long as the compression is sound, who cars if it had 400k.. If you're only after 400-450, I would just go with nitrous. Its like 80% cheaper and just as fast.

 

If you have turbo plans then do it... whether to do it now or do it later.... get it done. my advice is since u want to get bolt ons, get some that would be beneficial to going turbo. Catback exhaust, test pipes, intake manifold, bigger throttle bodies, oil coolers, gauges, thicker radiator or vented hood etc... if you want/need an extra level of comfort then get a compression test and a leak down test done... you could also spend that money into a new block and turbo it one time. either way the choice is yours and its your car.... have fun.

 

THIS!!!! ^^ Or you can save up for a low mileage motor while you just play around with bolt ons, and then they can attach the kit on the new motor and just drop it in and you can sell your current motor.