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Front axle replacement - AWD

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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 01:37 AM
  #16  
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More info in the Engine, Transmission and Drivetrain forum.
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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 07:30 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Rich11G37xS
what were some of the symptoms you guys expierienced???....My car clicks on turns....I can do a full circle in a parking lot, nothing, but as soon as I turn the wheel the opposite way it clicks...so driving straight no problems....turning the wheel a bit and you can hear and feel clicking
That could be a bearing - 90% easier. Symptoms of a bearing is usually a flat tire like sound. Metal on metal would make me think the axle needs replacement.
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Old Jul 31, 2018 | 10:26 AM
  #18  
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From: Endicott, NY
Originally Posted by RMB5190
That could be a bearing - 90% easier. Symptoms of a bearing is usually a flat tire like sound. Metal on metal would make me think the axle needs replacement.
I've had bearings go on my Altima definitely not the same sound, but I like your thinking ?

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Old Dec 20, 2018 | 06:14 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Stachuu
I was able to extract 3 bots and stripped 3 other, I had my car towed yesterday, was using 3 extension bars from 1/2" breaker bar to, 5/8" to 1/4" just to reach inside. You could also remove 3 bolts at the trans case but I guess it would leak out trans fluid so I didnt touch that.
To remove the 6 10mm bolts, you need to grain access from the front of vehicle not side with long handle 10mm wrench.
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Old Dec 21, 2018 | 10:40 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by nguyem01
To remove the 6 10mm bolts, you need to grain access from the front of vehicle not side with long handle 10mm wrench.
This is true... in part and I imagine much easier with the wheels on ramps...that being said, I just did this replacement a month or so ago...I didn't (and would't) bother even trying to remove those six bolts...theres three very low torque (like 30in/lbs or somthing) 10 or 12 mm bolts just behind them holding the stub axle to the upper oil pan, using a 1/4" 2ft extension from the side and a small ratchet from the bottom, I removed them in a couple of minutes, once they are loose you just need to slide a crowbar behind the far end of the axle and pull towards you....the whole thing pops out....another reason why I reccomend this method is that I imagine most people that are doing this replacement are sourcing the axle from a junker...many sell it as a single peice with the stub axle attached and dont charge a premium for it... for example the one in this link...https://www.ebay.com/itm/08-14-Infin...SNg:rk:22:pf:0 I got mine for $50.00CAD (about $37USD) delivered...

RE: spilling fluids if you do it this way, theres an "axle tube" that runs through the upper oil pan which may come unseated when you yank the stub out (as it did when I did it), if it does it just spills oil and I would presume diff fluid...when I saw it spill a bit, i just pushed it back into place and opened the drains on both the lower oil pan and the diff and refilled then completly with fresh fluid/filter after I was all done...I presume that if you go under the car and use something to brace it/hold it again the upper oil pan when you yank with the crowbar the axle tube won't come unseated

Last edited by Baadnewsburr; Dec 21, 2018 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Dec 21, 2018 | 11:47 AM
  #21  
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Very good info, I didn't realize the long stub axle behind it, I did the hard way by removed the 6 bolt one of them strip and I have to shaved the top bolt off (painful).
Anyway I recommend using sliding hammer instead of crowbar to pull out the axle.
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Old Dec 21, 2018 | 12:06 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by nguyem01
Very good info, I didn't realize the long stub axle behind it, I did the hard way by removed the 6 bolt one of them strip and I have to shaved the top bolt off (painful).
Anyway I recommend using sliding hammer instead of crowbar to pull out the axle.
I rented the slide hammer from the autoparts store and bought an axle pulling attachment off amazon when i did it and expected to need it if axle was fit in very tight like on the passenger side, but I didn't even take it out of the box...on the driver side I guess because its secured with those three bolts its not in tight at all, you just need something to reach behind it and you pull towards you.. it popped out with very little pressure sliding straight forward...lol, I think I only used one hand...
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Old Dec 21, 2018 | 05:40 PM
  #23  
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I thank my lucky stars I only had one vehicle that had FWD. I hated axle replacement because of the weak CV joint cover. I'm also thankful I don't live in the snow belt.
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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 03:27 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Hashim




This is true... in part and I imagine much easier with the wheels on ramps...that being said, I just did this replacement a month or so ago...I didn't (and would't) bother even trying to remove those six bolts...theres three very low torque (like 30in/lbs or somthing) 10 or 12 mm bolts just behind them holding the stub axle to the upper oil pan, using a 1/4" 2ft extension from the side and a small ratchet from the bottom, I removed them in a couple of minutes, once they are loose you just need to slide a crowbar behind the far end of the axle and pull towards you....the whole thing pops out....another reason why I reccomend this method is that I imagine most people that are doing this replacement are sourcing the axle from a junker...many sell it as a single peice with the stub axle attached and dont charge a premium for it... for example the one in this link...https://www.ebay.com/itm/08-14-Infin...SNg:rk:22:pf:0 I got mine for $50.00CAD (about $37USD) delivered...

RE: spilling fluids if you do it this way, theres an "axle tube" that runs through the upper oil pan which may come unseated when you yank the stub out (as it did when I did it), if it does it just spills oil and I would presume diff fluid...when I saw it spill a bit, i just pushed it back into place and opened the drains on both the lower oil pan and the diff and refilled then completly with fresh fluid/filter after I was all done...I presume that if you go under the car and use something to brace it/hold it again the upper oil pan when you yank with the crowbar the axle tube won't come unseated
​​​​
the whole thing pops out

I didn't have such luck. The housing from the stub that connects with the 6 bolts would not come through the small space between the engine mount and the frame support. No matter how much I pry. I ended up taking the 6 bolts off since the half shaft came out and the stub was left. The bolts were eay to get to then. I had to use the old stub since it will not come out.
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Old May 10, 2019 | 09:28 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Stachuu
I know this is old thread but I wanted to comment for anyone thinking to do it them self, the 6 x 10mm bolt are hell to remove, I just quit in the middle of it, there is no room to play, I made mistake and removed axle from the wheel hub so the ****er spins in place now.
I'm going to give it another try tomorrow, otherwise I will have car towed and shop do it.
The design is the most ****ing stupid I have ever seen.
/// Very late reply, but Ive done my share of axles on mine (2009 g37x 170k) due to being lowered and the best way I’ve found is to be under the car with a light and rotate the axle to get the best angle. I could only reach one really good so I kept rotating each bolt to that spot, in all took me about an hour an a half🤷🏼*♂️
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Old May 28, 2019 | 07:57 PM
  #26  
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So I'm attempting this in the am, does anyone have any tips to getting the stuff bolts to unbolt the axle at the flange? I'd rather much do it that way
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 06:16 PM
  #27  
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I just replaced the drivers side axle in my 2013 sedan and It was definitely a pain and a two person job. Like most people I could not get the 6 - 10mm bolts off and once I finally got leverage they just stripped anyway. I wouldn’t even attempt those bolts next time. It was much easier to remove the 3 12mm bolts just behind it. Once those 3 where out the whole stub axle and cv axle came out with a tug. Then as your pulling it out you have to spin the mounting plate around until you can get it past the engine mount. Once I got the whole unit out I was able to clamp down the old cv axle with a vice and get those 6 dumb *** bolts out with the impact gun.
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Old Aug 22, 2022 | 11:13 PM
  #28  
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I am in the same boat... Going to give it a try, but will be at shops mercy if I fail. How much did it cost you?
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 11:53 AM
  #29  
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old post, but I may give some extra information for future reference to hopefully help someone out in the future. I just took apart my right side front axle, etc (as the inner boot was torn).

a). no need to remove the whole axle from the transmission etc. you can just cut away the original rubber boot if that's the reason you are removing to fix it (like in my case), and just remove the axle without the housing etc that goes into transmission.

b) the original cv boots are made by GKN - and the inner passenger side boot is exactly same as they put on 2007-2015 Mini Coopers. it may be cheaper than getting them from Infiniti. Other models of cars may use the them too, didn't check yet.

https://www.gknautomotive.com/en/Aftermarket/
https://web.tecalliance.net/gkn/en/home?sessionArticleCountry=GB&sessionTargetCountry =GB
- catalogue

Also please note that the left inner boot is bigger than the right inner boot. The outer boots should be the same.

Last edited by si_driver; Oct 28, 2022 at 12:03 PM.
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 11:59 AM
  #30  
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******* notice ******

if you are removing your axles to fix a torn boots, you don't kneed to remove everything from the transmission!!!!!!! If it's the inner boot that needs replacing, just cut away the boot and you can remove the axle without the piece that goes into the transmission and/or removing those bolts you can't get to.

If you need need to fix the outer boot, you could in theory take off the metal band off from the inner boot and slide the whole thing out. (def easier than having to remove the bolts and the left side, or prying it out of the transmission on the right side)

of course this doesn't help if you need to replace the whole axle.

Let me know if you have any questions.
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