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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 03:52 AM
  #16  
Tommy Gunz PSIU's Avatar
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So if you go buy just that part, it is technically for the g35. So the gasket itself is paper. But the "fix" for the g37 requires the whole rear timing cover be replaced, which includes the newer non cardboard gasket. I believe I was told this by an infiniti tech, but it was awhile ago, so I'm not sure.
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 10:33 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Tommy Gunz PSIU

So if you go buy just that part, it is technically for the g35. So the gasket itself is paper. But the "fix" for the g37 requires the whole rear timing cover be replaced, which includes the newer non cardboard gasket. I believe I was told this by an infiniti tech, but it was awhile ago, so I'm not sure.
WHY do you keep repeating this incorrect information as if it were fact? It would certainly seem to be a disservice to those who are trying to research the topic.

The part number for the gasket(s) is in fact listed for the G35 and not the G37, but it us in fact one and the same gasket, and it most definitely is not just paper (cardboard) anymore. Further, the factory approved fix for the G35 is still to replace the entire rear timing cover, just as for the G37, since there is no factory approved torque spec for the cover plate screws nor thread locking compound spec. If an individual dealership chooses to "go it on their own" they may well opt to replace just the gaskets, but the factory will not support them, nor reimburse them for that effort. It makes no sense, but that is sometimes the nature of corporate policies.
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 03:09 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
WHY do you keep repeating this incorrect information as if it were fact? It would certainly seem to be a disservice to those who are trying to research the topic.

The part number for the gasket(s) is in fact listed for the G35 and not the G37, but it us in fact one and the same gasket, and it most definitely is not just paper (cardboard) anymore. Further, the factory approved fix for the G35 is still to replace the entire rear timing cover, just as for the G37, since there is no factory approved torque spec for the cover plate screws nor thread locking compound spec. If an individual dealership chooses to "go it on their own" they may well opt to replace just the gaskets, but the factory will not support them, nor reimburse them for that effort. It makes no sense, but that is sometimes the nature of corporate policies.
I have information to the contrary to part of what you are stating. Yes, the standard procedure for the repair is to replace the entire rear timing cover with the gasket included. That's how mine was repaired. However, I know of at least one instance of the repair being performed by an Infiniti dealership on a G37 by replacing just the gasket, not the entire rear cover assembly. Under warranty. The car in question belongs to a member of this forum and the repair was performed earlier this year.
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 03:23 PM
  #19  
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Lets do it this way...

FACT: You CANNOT find part number 13533-JK21A (the gasket) for the G37
FACT: You CAN find part number 13533-JK21A (the gasket) for the G35
FACT: Part number 13533-JK21A (the gasket) is still cardboard (Please keep in mind that I have one)
FACT: Part number 13533-JK21A (the gasket for the G35) WILL fit the G37
FACT: There are two ways to "fix" this problem.
Option 1- Replace the Gasket
Option 2- Replace the entire rear timing cover
It seems as though Infiniti will normally recommend Option 2, however there is someone on the forum (i forgot who) that still had their power train warranty, so Infiniti decided to opt for Option 1 (the cheaper option)
FACT: The reason Infiniti typically recommends option 2 is because there are no torque specs to put the gasket back in.

NOT SURE IF IT IS A FACT: If the whole rear timing cover is replaced, the gasket inside of it is no longer cardboard.
I heard this from someone at Infiniti, so i always take that with a grain of salt. However based on the fact this does only seem to be occurring in the earlier model G37s, i would think it may be true.
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 03:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Black Betty
I have information to the contrary to part of what you are stating. Yes, the standard procedure for the repair is to replace the entire rear timing cover with the gasket included. That's how mine was repaired. However, I know of at least one instance of the repair being performed by an Infiniti dealership on a G37 by replacing just the gasket, not the entire rear cover assembly. Under warranty. The car in question belongs to a member of this forum and the repair was performed earlier this year.
I was typing my response as you posted this... Thank you.
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 04:56 PM
  #21  
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i thought infinitidude over on g35 had personally handled the gasket and confirmed that it is not just cardboard
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 06:27 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by toddmorr
i thought infinitidude over on g35 had personally handled the gasket and confirmed that it is not just cardboard
Im not really sure if it is the same material or not but I know the new metal gasket is included with the new timing cover.
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Old Oct 29, 2014 | 11:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by toddmorr
i thought infinitidude over on g35 had personally handled the gasket and confirmed that it is not just cardboard
Me too:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...ml#post3838247

I hear what everyone is saying. I am going to look further into this and try to get a decisive read on all this conflicting info. Both about the gasket composition and about the factory approved repair methods for gasket issues.
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Old Oct 30, 2014 | 01:20 PM
  #24  
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OK, So i have to retract something I said because i was actually completely unaware of it... It looks like I may have gotten the wrong part, but I cant be sure because the gasket is actually in storage right now.

It looks like there are 2 different gaskets for the same part... 13533-JK21A and 13533-JK20A.

The difference based the on this thread ( Cause for the dreaded P0011/P0021 codes that everyone is curious about - Page 9 - G35Driver ) is that 20A is the cardboard one, and 21A is the newer metal core. I was completely unaware that there was an option. So clearly I ordered 20A rather than 21A. Good call vqsmile.

I was rushing like crazy when i did my research and just had to buy whatever the dealership had because of time constraints. Good thing you saw that... hopefully it'll help some people in the future.
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Old Nov 6, 2014 | 06:23 PM
  #25  
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Just in case there is any confusion or any doubters left among us (and because I had never personally verified it) regarding whether or not the new oil gallery gaskets are truly different now (i.e. specifically metal reinforced VS. paper material) . . .

I bit the bullet and purchased the smaller one for a whopping $4.25 w/tax and proceeded to dissect it. The larger one is made of the same material as this one, but it cost $21 and I'm too cheap for that.




Scraped away the coating down to the solid metal substrate.



The razor would not even cut through the metal. I had to use some good utility scissors.



And if you're still not convinced, here's the old magnet test:





SO, these new gaskets will definitely not be blowing out like the old ones.
Once again, the part numbers for these are: 13533-JK21A (the larger one) and 13533-JK21B (this smaller one).

Last edited by vqsmile; Nov 6, 2014 at 06:30 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 02:48 PM
  #26  
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^^^ Awesome info, I'll be tackling this job on my own as it now has 90k and have no idea if the previous owner has already fixed it. Is there any way to run the VIN somewhere and see? I have a detailed carfax and its not listed on there...
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 05:15 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Kris9884
^^^ Awesome info, I'll be tackling this job on my own as it now has 90k and have no idea if the previous owner has already fixed it. Is there any way to run the VIN somewhere and see? I have a detailed carfax and its not listed on there...
It's up to you but you might want to wait until you get the codes thrown, yours might never need to be repaired. Black Bettys coupe which he admits to driving much harder than his wifes sedan never has had an issue. There's plenty of drivers that have well over 100k miles an no gasket problems.
I'm almost to 80k and I'm just going to run it but I'm prepared to DIY that repair if & when it rears its ugly head.
Any car is a gamble and it sucks that this comes down to a $5 piece of paper, but I'm rolling the dice, but also keeping my expectations realistic.
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 11:47 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by blnewt
It's up to you but you might want to wait until you get the codes thrown, yours might never need to be repaired. Black Bettys coupe which he admits to driving much harder than his wifes sedan never has had an issue. There's plenty of drivers that have well over 100k miles an no gasket problems.
I'm almost to 80k and I'm just going to run it but I'm prepared to DIY that repair if & when it rears its ugly head.
Any car is a gamble and it sucks that this comes down to a $5 piece of paper, but I'm rolling the dice, but also keeping my expectations realistic.
That's a fair suggestion, since I'll be the one doing the work anyway I might as well wait until it happens. Grab a rental car for a day or 2 and take my time. I have an extended warranty for another 20k but I doubt this is included.
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 02:53 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Kris9884
^^^ Awesome info, I'll be tackling this job on my own as it now has 90k and have no idea if the previous owner has already fixed it. Is there any way to run the VIN somewhere and see? I have a detailed carfax and its not listed on there...

I called infiniti and requested the service records of my car and it showed that the gasket had been replaced under warranty. You might try to call infiniti and have them email that over to you. Any dealer can do it.

That being said, if it doesn't show up as being serviced, that doesn't mean it wasn't done by another mechanic.
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Old Feb 5, 2020 | 10:24 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Tommy Gunz PSIU
OK, So i have to retract something I said because i was actually completely unaware of it... It looks like I may have gotten the wrong part, but I cant be sure because the gasket is actually in storage right now.

It looks like there are 2 different gaskets for the same part... 13533-JK21A and 13533-JK20A.

The difference based the on this thread ( Cause for the dreaded P0011/P0021 codes that everyone is curious about - Page 9 - G35Driver ) is that 20A is the cardboard one, and 21A is the newer metal core. I was completely unaware that there was an option. So clearly I ordered 20A rather than 21A. Good call vqsmile.

I was rushing like crazy when i did my research and just had to buy whatever the dealership had because of time constraints. Good thing you saw that... hopefully it'll help some people in the future.
Hi, nice thread. I know it's been a while and you've probably already sold your car but did the problem ever come back? How did your vvt solenoid and gasket hold up? And still would love some clarification on whether or not the p0524 code was indeed due to your defective vvt solenoid because I'm living through this issue right now on my 2012 sedan.

Cheers!!


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