I noticed an issue with a loss of power at high RPM's. I read of a similar (or exact!) issue on here a few weeks in another post (but can't find it now). The recommendation was to reset the ECU - and that recommendation was perfect.

Symptom: The car would accelerate strongly then fade completely at high RPM's. Something like 6500+ rpm.

On Sunday - I attempted to reset the ECU via the pedal method - but no luck. It must REALLY need specific timing - I couldn't get it. So - I pulled the negative battery terminal for a few hours (like 4.5).

The result? Smooth power delivery all the way to 7,500rpm. Feels stronger at all RPMs. Problem solved. I know it might adapt again depending on how it is driven, but this is great for now (and I know I can do it again in case the symptoms reappear).

I had never reset the ECU since getting the car. Drove it gently thru break-in period....then it sat in body shop for 30+ days due to hail damage....then I sat in an incredible amount of traffic never topping 30mph on many days! Now...construction has cleaned up much of the traffic - and I'm able to drive more 'normal'.

Interesting thing....I never lost the radio stations? I thought I would - maybe I didn't read something correctly.

Anyway - this is just a thank you to the board - it saved me a trip to the dealer (which probably would state it is normal or not able to duplicate or.....).

 

You wont loose your radio stations, but the windows need reprogramming when you press up it wont go up automatically, you will loose your memory seat that were saved, and i think your dashboard brightness will be set to default. and regarding your issue did you try to clean your throttle body ?

 

Disconnecting the battery is the best way to reset the ECU.

 

I did not clean the TB. It only has about 8k miles on it - figuring (hoping?) that wasn't the problem.

2 things....

1) the reset seemed to fix the issue. It is fun running up to redline now. Strangely - the engine feels smoother at all rpm? Maybe that is just a mind trick..

2) my wife's car - similar mileage - does not need the reset. Now the response in my car is similar to hers. One difference - she drives short distances...5 days a week, she drives @4 miles each way to work. Does it not learn in that manner? Just a curiosity. Or she has a lead foot...since day 1. But I don't think so....

 

Just curious, did you notice a difference in the pedal response after this procedure?

 

Yes indeed.

 

This might as well describe how your car taught itself into an "eco mode". I drive mine as hard as condition permit. Now at 15K, acceleration is stronger than ever. G37 is one of the worst cars to sit in bumper-to-bumper traffic. This is the absolutely worst kind of driving where you can barely touch the go pedal with the lightest pressure before having to break again, I would opt for a Prius instead. It's always more fun to drive a slow car fast than drive a fast car slowly.

 

Thanks, gonna give this a try to see if that helps with the throttle lag. Tried soft ECU reset many times, hypertech (worked great until I update it again) but to no avail.

 

Disconnected the battery yesterday, drove about 80 miles today... pedal response is little better, it shift at a higher RPM, it feels little more aggressive, overall better than before. I would say its certainly worth doing when ecu relearns instead of using the pedal method to reset ECU. I am on tsb 27a, 2009 sedan awd.

 

Good to know it wasn't just me. Easiest fix I have done. I'm thinking it may be worth a reset about every 6 months.

 

MalbecG37s, your comment about it drives like your wife's car post battery disconnect is what made me try this. I didnt think there was a difference between soft and hard reset but there are merits to this. Thank you!

 

As an update, I ran some 0-60's today...

One item I forgot to mention in my original post, I ran an 0-60 (pre-reset). It was bad (IMO) - 6.89s. Ugly...again, very strong in the low and mid rpm's - then it fell off completely.

I finally got to re-test today. 2 runs. 5.873 and 5.791. I am very satisfied.

Couple of comments: I did not power-brake; Traction control was on; temp was around 45 degrees; I rolled on the throttle aware of limited traction at these temps (did not want traction control to engage).

All runs were measured with the Torque app.

 

This is half my commute, b2b traffic. Utterly frustrating. If I had known I might have gotten the Prius.

 

For you guys that did the reset, did you have the latest Reflash done? I have found that since the Reflash, there are moments of the lagging returning, and then there are times when it is performing wonderfully. Having this car for near 3 years now, this Adaptive Shift Control (it seems that the new cars all do have some form of this built into the programming: Lincoln, Fords, etc ), which adapts to the way you drive (according to the Infiniti Web site) is the least desireable feature I've ever encountered. All foe the sake of attaining the highest MPGs they can get.

I may give the reset (battery disconnect method) a whirl.

 

I am on the latest update. All I can say is... you want the blue pill or red pill lol.