Im getting my stuff together and will be doing a 100 wet shot on my car. No worries...Im getting it all tuned...im going to go one step colder on my plugs...and I will have a nitrous map put in and it will all run on a window switch. So before anybody asks that...im stating it lol. I been doing a lot of searching over on 350z forums since more of those guys are running nitrous setups but im getting conflicting info between various motor platforms. What im looking for is the TPS wire and the rpm wire. Is the TPS wire the green wire on the driver side throttle body? RPM a red wire with yellow stripe on cyl 1 coil pack? I have a Zex tps module and i read that our tps is a decreasing voltage where as the zex unit is an increasing voltage unit yet people are using it without problems but not really getting into exactly what they did to set it up. Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

If your talking about the window switch itself I could NEVER get mine to work correctly and I just ended up running it off of a button which i flipped when I wanted to spray - fast and furious style ftw

 

THe TPS is just to sense when im actually WOT....and the window is just so i can spray between certain rpms, while at WOT ofcourse haha. What brand of window switch were you using? A lot of the 350z HR guys have window switches without issues...I just cant find somebody to confirm which effin wire it is lol

 

I had the dynotune setup for a vq35hr motor which we installed on my vq37. For some reason we could never get a constant voltage while at WOT, and thats why i had to use a button. Maybe its because we had the wrong wire lol as far as which wire we used I cant remember.

 

From what ive read the problem is that certain modules are an increasing voltage to turn on, where as the voltage for ours is a decreasing... no throttle is 4.38 volts and WOT is like .98. I may actually call Zex to confirm how there unit works in this case because i know guys are using it haha

 

lol well good luck!

 

[QUOTE=tyler20c;3555166]I had the dynotune setup for a vq35hr motor which we installed on my vq37. For some reason we could never get a constant voltage while at WOT, and thats why i had to use a button. Maybe its because we had the wrong wire lol as far as which wire we used I cant remember.[/had my set up at a 150 shotQUOTE]

You need a nitrous progressive controller, it gets gatekeeper into the car. You can set different settings to ramp up the shot, instead of it hitting all at once.

BTW I have a brand new nitrous tank & brand new nano tank for sale with a progressive controller.

Pm if you are interested.

 

I thought about doing this too but i am always unsure about this. Can you guys post some pix so i can see this in the engine bay?

 

I had the kit on my 370z which I sold so I dont have it anymore. It just looked stock except with a few braided lines running into the intakes. Most people wouldnt notice it was there unless they looked for it.

 

Any 1/4 mile times with this setup?

 

I ran my 370z and got a 13.0 dont remember the trap but i think it was around 110. That was with only a 55 shot. Never got a chance to run it with the higher shot.

 

So honestly I don’t even remember why I was on this thread, and I know it’s old af, but I’ve been running big spray on my VHR for several year now with very few catastrophic failures. But the guy right here is exactly right that our cars run on a descending voltage at wide-open throttle and the Zex box needs ascending voltage. You will never find it in the engine bay what you have to do to get the increasing voltage at wide-open throttle is there should be a plug it has six wires going right behind the pedal assembly for your gas pedal. I know for a fact on the sedan and I believe the G37 coupe the green wire is the one with the increasing voltage, and on the 370z it’s the red wire. Programming the box is easy so just watch a YouTube video on that lol. When I first put my car on the zex kit It was just bolt ons and pump gas. All I did was 100 shot to start and honestly the car loved it. I did not use a progressive controller or a window switch and I had no issues whatsoever. All I recommend is shift a little early until you get used to it because banging redline on nitrous is a bad idea. And for those of you that know the rolling launch feature.. DO NOT USE IT WHEN YOU SPRAY. I will say it again. DO NOT USE THE ROLLING LAUNCH ON SPRAY!! I **** you not, I blew my intake manifold clean off the car! It was pretty dope though. Long story short the car now is strictly built to street race fully gutted, cut and swapped the glass for lexan so it’s lighter than a feather. I’ve been running a fully built high compression block, I think it’s 12.1:1 But I’m not 100% off the top my head, idx1700s, 455 pump, ported heads and manifolds and pretty much just about everything else. Generally I keep the car on a 250 shot with roughly a 2 second progression from a 50 so I can launch from digs with it. Obviously this is way more than a stock motor would even remotely handle, at least more than a few times. But now the week point is the transmission. I have tried several different things from billet flexplates to high stall converters to way overpriced valvebodies and most recently a whole *** vr30 trans swap. Highly recommend the VR trans to anybody making anything more than 350whp. It literally made as big a difference as getting the car tuned for the first time. That and the one piece driveshaft. If anybody randomly comes across my bull**** *** post and knows anything about level10 built transmissions and the reliability with ridiculous amounts of torque hit me up hahahah. Welp This was my first post ever and I hope it helps at least one person. The VHR and HR platforms Are amazing and I will be a diehard fanatic for life even though my next car will be an Iroz RS3. Thanks for listening that’s all folks

 

got to see you’re build fs