the heat ex-changer pump is runing the whole time. I will check the ohms for the MAF harness again.

 

that's weird!

i hope your injectors are installed correctly too cuz that's gotta be a major pain to remove the manifold and surrounding parts.

keep us posted!

 

my muti-meter isn't working for me now. I check the wires for the MAF they are making good contact and is their a reason why their is a different number of wires for each MAF? Shouldn"t they have the same amount of inputs?

 

What about the injectors could have been installed wrong? From what I saw was that each injectors plugs into the rails and then drop them in.

 

heh, that's a little too technical for me there. i really doubt you will have any issues on the MAF's sensor relocating wires. how did you connect them? solder or butt connectors?

i believe you can use your stock pump to start up the car, just don't give any gas. try that out if you've exhausted your ideas

 

yea, it is but there is a tube of lube for the o rings and you gotta be extremely careful while installing those.

 

"posi-locks" is what I used they are a form of butt connectors, but much better. Do you think it could be the tune? I am going to call stillen tomorrow.

 

You can actually flash your car back to stock and try starting it too. That will tell you whether it's the tune or not.

 

Weiboy is correct. You should be able to start the car on stock ecu, but just dont drive it. Also, have you tried giving it gas when you tried starting it?

 

yes I tried to give it gas when starting to car and I even had someone look at the throttle body's when doing so and they go full open.

 

whoa! your friend must have some kind of special power to be able to see the throttle plate open lol. isn't your intake pipes on? so how can he see them being opened?

man! just my method and flash your car back to stock and try starting it. if it starts then it's likely your tune. i would do that first to eliminate the tuning issue first.

 

Watching the vid, it is definately a fuel problem. The car tries to run at :15" in the vid and then returns to starter RPM. That's a signal that a little bit of fuel sprayed and then stopped.

Tip: Take WD40 and spray it in an intake close to the throttle body for three seconds. Then try. If it does the same thing only a bit moreso, you've isolated the dilemma.

it may be a simple as a hose at the pump popping off. As a technician in my past career, retracing the steps and components I mucked with, always netted me the culprit. In your case, you mucked with the injectors and the fuel pump.

My money says the tune is just fine, and it's mechanical or incorrect wiring.

 

My ruling is the fuel pump as well. One way to possibly tell is to take off the fuel line where its going into the fuel rail(at the fuel damper). This is the same spot where you would install a fuel pressure guage line. Take this off. Dont start the car but have the line going into a bucket and see if when you put the car to on(NOT start) the fuel pump will prime and should spit out some fuel. This is another way to possible tell.

Take a look at the picture and see where the fuel line goes to the fuel damper. You will want to take the fuel damper off. Do not remove hose from damper. It will permantly damage fuel line. Also remove fuse to fuel pump and try to start car to remove pressure from fuel line. You can get to the damper without having to remove anything except the old engine cover which you can not use now that you have a stillen.

 

So I swap the fuel pump to the stock on to see if it will start and it did work. for some reason I can't flash back to stock either. I am working with Stillen on this and still no solution.

 

I took off the intake to take a look.