Weiboy718

iTrader: (10)

haha, you can't just spray paint the FMIC, you'll have to use a special coating for that otherwise it'll more than likely block off the cool air to the thermos. if you're planning on going the GTM route you probably won't have a lot of choices on a bigger FMIC since all the pipings are cut precisely to fit the FMIC that comes with it. Yep, they know about it and sent me new oil lines and i just installed them about 2 weeks ago. It's all good now!

You won't find an off the shelf S/C kit has it's own oil lines for the blower unless you wanna get creative and get a different blower that requires tapping oil to it. Not the GTM kit that's for sure. You can possibly do that on the Stillen kit since Vortech offers so much different trim blowers. That might just work. My heat soak issues usually hits when i'm stuck in heavy traffic on stop and go mode. That's when i experience the most lag but once i get up to speed and have cooler IAT's the car runs like a dream.

I personally don't have a lot of hot oil issues since i live in San Francisco, it get's pretty cold around here especially during night time. You should go to the370.com and search about it. There's more hardcore and grease monkeys there that actually knows what they're talking about and can def shed some light on that issue.

Mike

iTrader: (1)

The kit itself is new, but I love Rotrex blowers. Much better flow at lower (relative) RPMs.

As for oil temps, the biggest factor is RPM. The more time you spend at high RPM, the hotter the oil gets. You can make a stock car go into limp mode simply by HOLDING high RPM, even cruising on the freeway.

kingdavid

I was just joking about the intercooler bodykit, I have to drive this to the track remember?
I can dodge the oil lines issue if I decided to scrap the idea of a kit and build my own SC using a procharger C-2 blower. problem with one-offs is it can cost a pretty penny if you screw up on bending the plumbing and have to redo a couple pieces, keep in mind if you screw up an elbow/bend you most likely have to redo EVERYTHING past that point and dealers arent keen on taking their pipes back because they don't fit. I doubt GTM would be interested in letting me see a sheet with all their pipe specs on it either but such is the struggle of capitalism.
Another issue is that prochargers go for a good 4k for just the head unit which leaves me only 3k to fab/have fabbed all the pipes, lines, valvles etc. that are required....and after that there's no guarantee Ill pick the correct diameter pipe for the intake and with heat soak a real threat you need to eek out as much power per rpm as possible though it's not NEARLY as big a concern as it is with a turbo but y'know...or maybe you don't...w/e
This isn't really your guys problem lol, just venting my worries outloud...But can anyone tell me how GTM ensures that the same level of boost is going to each cylinder bank? I should probably just go to the GTM website and hunt but if anyone knows offhand....

kingdavid

Yay for circuit racing! I was spending as little as 10% of the time pulling what we called "heavy boost" or rather -boost that makes a significant difference in the performance of the vehicle- because of the constant decceleration/downshifts that come with corner entry.

I'm intrigued by the words "LOW" and "RPMs" as that's what I'm after. How much true boost were you looking at from 3-5 rpms?

Modme

iTrader: (17)

Not sure what youre saying but to answer your question: pressure will equalize among the different cylinders. The intake manifold is an open chamber. The air pressure will even out inside the manifold so all the cylinders see the same PSI.