g37 340+ whp
11-02-2014, 09:59 PM
#62
I just dyno'd my car today, by a friend of mine who works for D3 performance engineering, they do a lot of the tunes for Hennessy... Came out a little high I thought, just a GT Haus full catback... Got 301.1 hp and 251.6 ft-lbs... One run was 297.4 I think... But the other 3 were 300, 301, and 301. 4th gear pulls, 73F and 48% humidity. A/F's were high 11's ... Video and graph in my build thread.
11-10-2014, 02:35 PM
#64
Registered User
I actually wonder why so many people disbelieve the G is capable of doing these numbers.
It is pretty standard for a 15% drivetrain loss to the wheels. Starting stock numbers should be around 280 whp. A few basic bolt ons and you are easily in the 300+ range. Stillen Gen 3 intakes and a cat back exhaust alone should put one over the 300 mark.
I think with straight (test) pipes or HFC's, exhaust, CAI, Motordyne Intake Manifold, and UpRev tune you should easily be able easily reach the number mentioned in the post. (340).
The reason many of "your" dyno's are low, is most likely because you guys are not getting SAE corrected numbers. Elevation plays a major role in dyno numbers.
If you have a high altitude, the air is less dense and you will make less power.
The closer you are to sea level, the better your dyno results will be. Obviously cooler temperatures will also help increase the power numbers.
Those of you that barely break 300 with all your bolt ons, you should ask your dyno operator if they can reprint you a dyno chart with SAE corrected numbers. It is a standard used to compare gains across a level platform.
I'm waiting to get my upRev tune before I get my dyno. I am located in Florida and it's finally starting to cool off. I'll post my numbers as soon as I get them.
Most likely Jan 2015 I will have some results for you guys.
Maybe I can get a few more mods before then and offer some good numbers.
It is pretty standard for a 15% drivetrain loss to the wheels. Starting stock numbers should be around 280 whp. A few basic bolt ons and you are easily in the 300+ range. Stillen Gen 3 intakes and a cat back exhaust alone should put one over the 300 mark.
I think with straight (test) pipes or HFC's, exhaust, CAI, Motordyne Intake Manifold, and UpRev tune you should easily be able easily reach the number mentioned in the post. (340).
The reason many of "your" dyno's are low, is most likely because you guys are not getting SAE corrected numbers. Elevation plays a major role in dyno numbers.
If you have a high altitude, the air is less dense and you will make less power.
The closer you are to sea level, the better your dyno results will be. Obviously cooler temperatures will also help increase the power numbers.
Those of you that barely break 300 with all your bolt ons, you should ask your dyno operator if they can reprint you a dyno chart with SAE corrected numbers. It is a standard used to compare gains across a level platform.
I'm waiting to get my upRev tune before I get my dyno. I am located in Florida and it's finally starting to cool off. I'll post my numbers as soon as I get them.
Most likely Jan 2015 I will have some results for you guys.
Maybe I can get a few more mods before then and offer some good numbers.
11-10-2014, 04:36 PM
#65
Anything over 310whp is almost impossible to achieve. You will be dumping so much money that it would make much more sense to go FI. Also most manufactures overestimate gains or forget to mention that their gains are only within a narrow powerband, while at certain rpm points - gains might turn into losses. I know it took me 10 performance upgrades to get 40hp when I was NA. If manufacturer says you gain 10 - you might actually lose some. If they say you will gain 20 - you might get 5. Overall that was like $150 per Hp not counting labor, horrible horrible return on investment. In the end I went FI anyway.
11-10-2014, 07:48 PM
#66
Registered User
If i can get 300whp on a mustang dyno & around 250wtq i will be satisfy. Artpipes just came in having them put on this wed. Only if there was a god damn dyno close by to my shop !
11-11-2014, 10:29 AM
#67
Registered User
When I first got into tuning cars, I used to argue with the Honda/Acura community that I was part of. We would but heads about the powerband and low end torque. I was usually on the opposite side of the argument who opposed the majority.
Most Honda/Acura guys wanted more low end torque b/c those tiny engines didn't make much low end power. I always argued with them that it doesn't make sense to obtain more low end in a front wheel drive car that will have major traction problems. Thousands of dollars needed to be spent on suspension, wheels and tires, just to get good 60' times on a FWD car putting down 200-300whp. I was always the advocate for mid and top rpm gains. When racing, you almost hardly ever use anything under the 3,000-3,500 rpm range.
I read an article a long time ago about how it's better to continue to make power in the upper rpm range and it's always better to go through your power band faster. The idea is to make a flat torque line throughout the rpm range, the longer you can produce torque (in rpm's) the more horsepower you make b/c hp is only a mathematical equation derived from (RPM x Torque) / 5252.
Sometimes what you see in a dyno when there might be a "loss" in low range power is actually a shift in the powerband. You aren't really losing anything, you are simply shifting the powerband upwards in the RPM range. B/C of math you will see an increase in horsepower.
This is why people that brag about their whp numbers are fools. In the end, the argument really comes down to who has the faster car. Obvious a 280whp gutted Honda would beat down on a 300whp G since their is a massive weight difference. (assuming both people can drive and get traction)
I have only been part of this community for about a year and I would say active for the past few months. What I noticed is that the G community seems very discouraging when it comes down to performance.
"serega13" I do agree with you that it will make much more sense economically to go FI if you want any real performance gains. I will most likely go Twin Turbo on my G in about a year from now once my other car is finished.
But I would argue that the G is also very capable of producing good dyno numbers and 1/4 times. I'm not sure if the real goal in this post is a bragging right about getting mid 300's to the wheels or really about claiming to have a fast car without showing time slips. Regardless, it is my opinion that the G37 with bolt ons (NA) with the proper setup and tune should be able to break into the 12's and dyno mid 300's for less than the price of a turbo set up. The advantage to this is that if you have any mechanical skills, you can do the bolt ons yourself and save a lot of money. There is also a lot of savings on bolt-ons if you pick up some used parts.
So after my long story...
Is it possible? YES
Is it affordable? Everyone's pocketbook is different.
Is it cheaper than FI? Nitrous is actually the cheapest power adder.
Most Honda/Acura guys wanted more low end torque b/c those tiny engines didn't make much low end power. I always argued with them that it doesn't make sense to obtain more low end in a front wheel drive car that will have major traction problems. Thousands of dollars needed to be spent on suspension, wheels and tires, just to get good 60' times on a FWD car putting down 200-300whp. I was always the advocate for mid and top rpm gains. When racing, you almost hardly ever use anything under the 3,000-3,500 rpm range.
I read an article a long time ago about how it's better to continue to make power in the upper rpm range and it's always better to go through your power band faster. The idea is to make a flat torque line throughout the rpm range, the longer you can produce torque (in rpm's) the more horsepower you make b/c hp is only a mathematical equation derived from (RPM x Torque) / 5252.
Sometimes what you see in a dyno when there might be a "loss" in low range power is actually a shift in the powerband. You aren't really losing anything, you are simply shifting the powerband upwards in the RPM range. B/C of math you will see an increase in horsepower.
This is why people that brag about their whp numbers are fools. In the end, the argument really comes down to who has the faster car. Obvious a 280whp gutted Honda would beat down on a 300whp G since their is a massive weight difference. (assuming both people can drive and get traction)
I have only been part of this community for about a year and I would say active for the past few months. What I noticed is that the G community seems very discouraging when it comes down to performance.
"serega13" I do agree with you that it will make much more sense economically to go FI if you want any real performance gains. I will most likely go Twin Turbo on my G in about a year from now once my other car is finished.
But I would argue that the G is also very capable of producing good dyno numbers and 1/4 times. I'm not sure if the real goal in this post is a bragging right about getting mid 300's to the wheels or really about claiming to have a fast car without showing time slips. Regardless, it is my opinion that the G37 with bolt ons (NA) with the proper setup and tune should be able to break into the 12's and dyno mid 300's for less than the price of a turbo set up. The advantage to this is that if you have any mechanical skills, you can do the bolt ons yourself and save a lot of money. There is also a lot of savings on bolt-ons if you pick up some used parts.
So after my long story...
Is it possible? YES
Is it affordable? Everyone's pocketbook is different.
Is it cheaper than FI? Nitrous is actually the cheapest power adder.
The following 2 users liked this post by Joe 'Cyclone' E:
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03-10-2015, 04:21 PM
#68
When I first got into tuning cars, I used to argue with the Honda/Acura community that I was part of. We would but heads about the powerband and low end torque. I was usually on the opposite side of the argument who opposed the majority.
Most Honda/Acura guys wanted more low end torque b/c those tiny engines didn't make much low end power. I always argued with them that it doesn't make sense to obtain more low end in a front wheel drive car that will have major traction problems. Thousands of dollars needed to be spent on suspension, wheels and tires, just to get good 60' times on a FWD car putting down 200-300whp. I was always the advocate for mid and top rpm gains. When racing, you almost hardly ever use anything under the 3,000-3,500 rpm range.
I read an article a long time ago about how it's better to continue to make power in the upper rpm range and it's always better to go through your power band faster. The idea is to make a flat torque line throughout the rpm range, the longer you can produce torque (in rpm's) the more horsepower you make b/c hp is only a mathematical equation derived from (RPM x Torque) / 5252.
Sometimes what you see in a dyno when there might be a "loss" in low range power is actually a shift in the powerband. You aren't really losing anything, you are simply shifting the powerband upwards in the RPM range. B/C of math you will see an increase in horsepower.
This is why people that brag about their whp numbers are fools. In the end, the argument really comes down to who has the faster car. Obvious a 280whp gutted Honda would beat down on a 300whp G since their is a massive weight difference. (assuming both people can drive and get traction)
I have only been part of this community for about a year and I would say active for the past few months. What I noticed is that the G community seems very discouraging when it comes down to performance.
"serega13" I do agree with you that it will make much more sense economically to go FI if you want any real performance gains. I will most likely go Twin Turbo on my G in about a year from now once my other car is finished.
But I would argue that the G is also very capable of producing good dyno numbers and 1/4 times. I'm not sure if the real goal in this post is a bragging right about getting mid 300's to the wheels or really about claiming to have a fast car without showing time slips. Regardless, it is my opinion that the G37 with bolt ons (NA) with the proper setup and tune should be able to break into the 12's and dyno mid 300's for less than the price of a turbo set up. The advantage to this is that if you have any mechanical skills, you can do the bolt ons yourself and save a lot of money. There is also a lot of savings on bolt-ons if you pick up some used parts.
So after my long story...
Is it possible? YES
Is it affordable? Everyone's pocketbook is different.
Is it cheaper than FI? Nitrous is actually the cheapest power adder.
Most Honda/Acura guys wanted more low end torque b/c those tiny engines didn't make much low end power. I always argued with them that it doesn't make sense to obtain more low end in a front wheel drive car that will have major traction problems. Thousands of dollars needed to be spent on suspension, wheels and tires, just to get good 60' times on a FWD car putting down 200-300whp. I was always the advocate for mid and top rpm gains. When racing, you almost hardly ever use anything under the 3,000-3,500 rpm range.
I read an article a long time ago about how it's better to continue to make power in the upper rpm range and it's always better to go through your power band faster. The idea is to make a flat torque line throughout the rpm range, the longer you can produce torque (in rpm's) the more horsepower you make b/c hp is only a mathematical equation derived from (RPM x Torque) / 5252.
Sometimes what you see in a dyno when there might be a "loss" in low range power is actually a shift in the powerband. You aren't really losing anything, you are simply shifting the powerband upwards in the RPM range. B/C of math you will see an increase in horsepower.
This is why people that brag about their whp numbers are fools. In the end, the argument really comes down to who has the faster car. Obvious a 280whp gutted Honda would beat down on a 300whp G since their is a massive weight difference. (assuming both people can drive and get traction)
I have only been part of this community for about a year and I would say active for the past few months. What I noticed is that the G community seems very discouraging when it comes down to performance.
"serega13" I do agree with you that it will make much more sense economically to go FI if you want any real performance gains. I will most likely go Twin Turbo on my G in about a year from now once my other car is finished.
But I would argue that the G is also very capable of producing good dyno numbers and 1/4 times. I'm not sure if the real goal in this post is a bragging right about getting mid 300's to the wheels or really about claiming to have a fast car without showing time slips. Regardless, it is my opinion that the G37 with bolt ons (NA) with the proper setup and tune should be able to break into the 12's and dyno mid 300's for less than the price of a turbo set up. The advantage to this is that if you have any mechanical skills, you can do the bolt ons yourself and save a lot of money. There is also a lot of savings on bolt-ons if you pick up some used parts.
So after my long story...
Is it possible? YES
Is it affordable? Everyone's pocketbook is different.
Is it cheaper than FI? Nitrous is actually the cheapest power adder.
06-29-2015, 03:42 AM
#69
Registered User
Numbers are easily achievable.
I have a 2015 q40 which is basically a 2013 g37 sedan.
Have dynoed at 3 shops, dyno jet and dyno pack.
First dyno was done on dyno jet.
Mods at the time: custom cbe cheap manzo tps and takeda long tube cai. Put down 301 whp and 249 wtq in 4th gear 85f day.
Second dyno was perfomed on dyno pack.
It's known dyno pack puts higher numbers than dyno jet, but in this case it was a brand new dyno pack which read almost identical numbers as dyno jet.
Same mods 95 f day 303 whp 251wtq.
3rd dyno was performed on dyno jet at specialty Z when tuning my car with Ecutek by Seb.
Same mods Baseline on 105 f (!!) day was 300 whp and 244 wtq.
After tune we hit 321whp and 263 wtq in 4th gear on 91 Oct.
Considering I have invested less than 1700 in performance mods I think these engines provide pretty affordable power.
I do think that newer vehicle have a different ecu tune due to many build threads of older g37 barely get 310 whp with similar mods.
I have a 2015 q40 which is basically a 2013 g37 sedan.
Have dynoed at 3 shops, dyno jet and dyno pack.
First dyno was done on dyno jet.
Mods at the time: custom cbe cheap manzo tps and takeda long tube cai. Put down 301 whp and 249 wtq in 4th gear 85f day.
Second dyno was perfomed on dyno pack.
It's known dyno pack puts higher numbers than dyno jet, but in this case it was a brand new dyno pack which read almost identical numbers as dyno jet.
Same mods 95 f day 303 whp 251wtq.
3rd dyno was performed on dyno jet at specialty Z when tuning my car with Ecutek by Seb.
Same mods Baseline on 105 f (!!) day was 300 whp and 244 wtq.
After tune we hit 321whp and 263 wtq in 4th gear on 91 Oct.
Considering I have invested less than 1700 in performance mods I think these engines provide pretty affordable power.
I do think that newer vehicle have a different ecu tune due to many build threads of older g37 barely get 310 whp with similar mods.
06-29-2015, 01:56 PM
#70
Registered Member
iTrader: (13)
The 321 WHP is HIGH for your mods and 91 OCT.
like it's stated already but 340 WHP with dropping crazy cash is not happening. I have everything (ex headers) don't want a loud car :/..
Made 302 WHP and 240 WTRQ and at the track car ran 13.5's and trapped 105 MPH consistently, for a 3800 LBS car at the MPH is 303 WHP if you use one of those online calculators. Not saying those are right but the proof of WHP is at the track and your trap speeds.
like it's stated already but 340 WHP with dropping crazy cash is not happening. I have everything (ex headers) don't want a loud car :/..
Made 302 WHP and 240 WTRQ and at the track car ran 13.5's and trapped 105 MPH consistently, for a 3800 LBS car at the MPH is 303 WHP if you use one of those online calculators. Not saying those are right but the proof of WHP is at the track and your trap speeds.
06-30-2015, 02:12 AM
#71
Registered User
The 321 WHP is HIGH for your mods and 91 OCT.
like it's stated already but 340 WHP with dropping crazy cash is not happening. I have everything (ex headers) don't want a loud car :/..
Made 302 WHP and 240 WTRQ and at the track car ran 13.5's and trapped 105 MPH consistently, for a 3800 LBS car at the MPH is 303 WHP if you use one of those online calculators. Not saying those are right but the proof of WHP is at the track and your trap speeds.
like it's stated already but 340 WHP with dropping crazy cash is not happening. I have everything (ex headers) don't want a loud car :/..
Made 302 WHP and 240 WTRQ and at the track car ran 13.5's and trapped 105 MPH consistently, for a 3800 LBS car at the MPH is 303 WHP if you use one of those online calculators. Not saying those are right but the proof of WHP is at the track and your trap speeds.
I haven't had a chance to run 1/4 yet and only ran 1/8 th mile. Before tune best time was 8.4 at 85 mph which is around 13.2 at 1/4 th mile. Planing on 8.3 with tune.
09-13-2019, 04:36 PM
#72
Registered Member
I deffinetly agree that 340whp is a little too pricey for the output, basically my point is with just 1700-2000 you can push 320 to wheel and anything over 330 is gonna be ridiculously expensive to achieve and numbers won't be justified.
I haven't had a chance to run 1/4 yet and only ran 1/8 th mile. Before tune best time was 8.4 at 85 mph which is around 13.2 at 1/4 th mile. Planing on 8.3 with tune.
I haven't had a chance to run 1/4 yet and only ran 1/8 th mile. Before tune best time was 8.4 at 85 mph which is around 13.2 at 1/4 th mile. Planing on 8.3 with tune.
- CPT Check Point Tuning Cold Air Intakes
- Ebay Throttle Body Spacers
- Mishimoto Dual Intake Oil Catch Cans
- DC Ceramic Coated Headers
- Berk Resonated Test Pipes
- Manzo V2 Full Exhaust System, From The Test Pipes Back
on 91 octane and STP octane boost at every fill-up. Next is ECUTEK tuning, done by Moncef of Admin Tuning.
02-07-2020, 09:34 AM
#73
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07-25-2020, 12:17 AM
#74
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I don't think you can do it. Even with full bolt ons and a tune the most you will see is a little over 300. Maybe 310 or 315 on a really good day. Only thing I can think of that might get you close would be raising the rev limiter and spinning it up to like 8K. However, if you do that you will prob run into other issues.
Just had my G37S 2009 Single exit isr , Megan y Pipe, berk test pipes and admintuning intakes with a 2015 370z motor swap come out to 324 WHP tuned on ecutek by admin tuning. They say that this dyno is 6whp shorter than this other dump they compared same cars with.
07-25-2020, 10:29 AM
#75
I saw an admin tuned G37 make 350 whp, but it had every bolt on, Admin 3" intake, Stillen headers, catback exhaust, HFC, oversized TB, potted upper and lower intake manifold, oversized injectors, an Admin tune and a few other accessories I don't remember.
From what I've observed I think I'll just go catback, HFC, CAÍ, and tune. I need the CAÍ now and the tune...you may be making more power with the other power adders, but be you'll be spending a lot of money to squeeze out that extra hp. I've taken my time and really shopped for deals, but even so it's gonna cost about $2000 total.
From what I've observed I think I'll just go catback, HFC, CAÍ, and tune. I need the CAÍ now and the tune...you may be making more power with the other power adders, but be you'll be spending a lot of money to squeeze out that extra hp. I've taken my time and really shopped for deals, but even so it's gonna cost about $2000 total.