I believe it only allows one to clear codes. I'm not aware of anything that allows a deletion of a code, seems to defeat the purpose of the OBDII monitoring system.

 

i know if you go fo a tune they can delete certain codes for oyu, so i was just curious. Cobb allows codes to be deleted

 

Jeas guys I'm a mechanical engineer and I'll wire you up a voltage step up amplifier in about 10 minutes for about 10 bux. But you can pay me $300 if you so please to One thing about the G modding community is the naivety of what modifications do and what they are functionally are...

 

DIY or never happened lol

 

^^^ i agree, show us how to save 300 bucks haha

 

Come on guys it's really simple:

 

^^^^ That. Lol

 

Still dunno what that means lol... I'm an entire noob when it comes to wiring n stuff. DIY or

 

Our cars are drive by wire. The car takes a pedal input in the form of voltage, converts that to a % throttle response then outputs that in the form of throttle opening. I dont know how the whole VVEL thing works, but for drive by wire cars this is how the car takes your pedal input and converts it into throttle response.

The thing they are selling you is basically an operational amplifier circuit. They place the circuit between the pedal output and the ECU input so the circuit amplifies the signal going into the ECU from the pedal. They play with the gain in the op-amp and the resistors they use so that the voltage they input is amplified to a higher voltage. That higher voltage makes the car output a higher throttle response. Basically it thinks you have the pedal pressed more than you do as it has been said in this thread a lot. Now, whatever the effect that has on your driving style and what you feel I am not sure when it comes to this car. It could very well "eliminate" throttle "lag" by opening the throttle more per pedal travel, but again as people have said its just liek mashing the throttle harder and faster...

If someone could give me a map of a voltage input vs voltage ouput that one of these things uses [using a DMM and input signal], it would be very easy to calculate the values those resistors would have to have in order to output the amount of voltage the gadget wants the car to read. When it says it has different settings for agressiveness, all those different settings do is adjust the gain in the amplifier so that different levels of voltages are outputted from the gizmo making the response feel more or less agressive.

 

Found a pretty good review @ Sprint Booster- My Review w/0-60 data - Club Lexus Forums

****
Ok guys, my apologies for this taking a few more weeks to get done than I planned, my front tires finally gave up the ghost and I had to replace them and break the new ones in a touch... (and they're vastly better, but that's a story for another thread).

This will be very long.



Anyway, the folks at Sprint Booster were kind enough to provide me with their product in exchange for a thorough review, and I think I've now gathered about as much useful data as I can without ECU datalogging hardware, which is goofy expensive for this purpose, especially given what I could get from accelerometers that I already had.

I'm going to start by saying I was long a critic of this device, because based on both my decent knowledge of cars, and how this device must be doing its job based on how and where it is installed, I was absolutely certain it would, in fact couldn't, do any more than lie to the ECU about how far you pressed the gas pedal... and that further it couldn't do anything for $300 that simply pressing the gas harder could do for free.

Having now installed, tested, and used the device for most of roughly two months now I can say this-

Objectively, my initial thoughts are accurate.

BUT- there's a certain subjective entertainment value to be had from the device, and I'll get more into that in a bit.

But first the hard data-

Since there's no local dragstrip I found a reasonable flat and straight piece of road I could safely do 0-60 testing on. I used an Escort G-timer GT2, it reads 0-60 down to hundreds of a second.

All runs were started from the exact same point, and logged to 60 mph.

All runs were followed with a brief slowdown, turn, return to the start point, and turn.

Important: These runs were not done to get the best possible 0-60 time out of the car. For that I would have had as little weight as possible, cold weather, I would have brake-torqued, etc...

Instead, these runs were done to maximize consistency of conditions between runs.

That means I had more fuel in the car, and a couple of people (to insure no tire spin). Traction control and VSC were off for all runs. All runs done in ECT-Normal. All runs done with left foot held on brake, GT2 set to begin run, then foot slammed over full on the gas.


The sprint booster has 3 settings, I will call them off, SB1, and SB2. (off is obvious, and SB2 is more aggressive than SB1).

I did 3 runs off, then 3 runs in SB1, then 3 runs in SB2 and then, to insure there wasn't any heat soak messing up my results (I wouldn't expect there to be with 5-6 second runs following by a minute or two of cooldown as I returned to start), I ran again in off mode.


Results as follows:

Off:
5.50
5.53
5.60

SB1:
5.65
5.60
5.65

SB2:
5.65
5.65
5.63

Off again:
5.63


It's probably safe to say there was a touch of the engine heating after the first 1-2 runs, but times remained very consistent after that point... never varying more than 0.05 seconds between runs, regardless of the sprint booster being off, on SB1, or on SB2.

I can only conclude from this that, as expected, the Sprint Booster makes no measurable performance difference for a WOT run.

****

 

Do you have a stick or an automatic with the shift paddles?

 

What, no more testimonials since October on this gadget?