Hello and Oil plan
Hello and Oil plan
First post, saying Hello and I like what I see at this forum.
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Bought wife's dream car, white G37S Coupe, auto. Discovered the "oil" situation.
Went to local Nissan today (no Infiniti around here). Parts didn't have the Nissan Oil. Never heard of it or the "problem" it is supposed to fix. Parts manager looked it up and said $12.00. I pretend shock..."I can get Redline for...can you give me a better price." He said he would have to order a whole case....short story, got case for $8.25 a quart. Nice considering what it is. Two oil changes with whatever this is seems a good break-in oil choice. I think its a blend at best with minimal esters. Maybe to help get the Nano particles against the metal? I don't know.
I'll change out the FF at about 1,800 mile, next week, then one more time at 3,750. Maybe by 7,500 miles there will be more UOA's and such to take the next step. Redline, M1, GC or PP... and I'm leaning towards PP which gives great UOA's in my Si and in the Accord V6 the wife used to drive. Wait and see for now. I would REALLY like to use RLI but I don't think it is API SM certified. Will investigate.
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Bought wife's dream car, white G37S Coupe, auto. Discovered the "oil" situation.
Went to local Nissan today (no Infiniti around here). Parts didn't have the Nissan Oil. Never heard of it or the "problem" it is supposed to fix. Parts manager looked it up and said $12.00. I pretend shock..."I can get Redline for...can you give me a better price." He said he would have to order a whole case....short story, got case for $8.25 a quart. Nice considering what it is. Two oil changes with whatever this is seems a good break-in oil choice. I think its a blend at best with minimal esters. Maybe to help get the Nano particles against the metal? I don't know.
I'll change out the FF at about 1,800 mile, next week, then one more time at 3,750. Maybe by 7,500 miles there will be more UOA's and such to take the next step. Redline, M1, GC or PP... and I'm leaning towards PP which gives great UOA's in my Si and in the Accord V6 the wife used to drive. Wait and see for now. I would REALLY like to use RLI but I don't think it is API SM certified. Will investigate.
Welcome!
And by "The oil situation" do you mean the VVEL ticking? I haven't heard of any one getting it during break in. Usually it creeps up eventually and people end up switching to the magic ester oil.
But to be honest, there is no reason to use anything other than conventional oil for break in because you should be dumping that stuff right after break in. I did mine at 1500 miles, switched to PP, never looked back. And no ticking yet so I haven't ventured over to the expensive ester oils.
And by "The oil situation" do you mean the VVEL ticking? I haven't heard of any one getting it during break in. Usually it creeps up eventually and people end up switching to the magic ester oil.
But to be honest, there is no reason to use anything other than conventional oil for break in because you should be dumping that stuff right after break in. I did mine at 1500 miles, switched to PP, never looked back. And no ticking yet so I haven't ventured over to the expensive ester oils.
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,335
Likes: 1
From: Metro Detroit, MI [Sterling Hts.]
Welcome to the board. I bet the wife loves the new ride. Sounds like you know what you're doing with oil. I'll let you know my oil journey below, as it has worked out well for me so far.
Personally, I started with the basic oil on the first and second cycles of 3750mi each, got Nissan ester oil on the 3rd cycle at 7500 which was right around when I first noticed a slightly jerky idle; and Nissan ester again at 11250, and then at 15k I made the switch to synthetic since I wanted to wait out a very complete break-in on dino oil, and after much research I went with Motul 8100 5w30, Motul is one of the few, if not only, manufacturers that make premium full synthetics out there with an ester-base. The Motul has been running great, no return of any VVEL knock and RPM needle keeps easy at idle.
Good luck with your choice!
Personally, I started with the basic oil on the first and second cycles of 3750mi each, got Nissan ester oil on the 3rd cycle at 7500 which was right around when I first noticed a slightly jerky idle; and Nissan ester again at 11250, and then at 15k I made the switch to synthetic since I wanted to wait out a very complete break-in on dino oil, and after much research I went with Motul 8100 5w30, Motul is one of the few, if not only, manufacturers that make premium full synthetics out there with an ester-base. The Motul has been running great, no return of any VVEL knock and RPM needle keeps easy at idle.
Good luck with your choice!
Thanks everyone. I'm enjoying learning about this coupe. A good sign if many oils work well. Tonight I'm thinking about filters. PP and AMSoil Ea012's every two OCI's on the Si or PP and Wixx/NAPA every OCI on the Accord produced NICE UOA's so I might try that with the G37 after break in. However, joining AMSoil for the discount is getting old, K&N's are always available, the Wixx did just as good for me.... and I'll just have to wait and see what others get on their UOA's to decide. It's a Wixx this first change.
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As for the wife...she's really happy. I don't think she realizes, yet, just how powerful her car REALLY is. She likes the way it sounds when it starts. Her day is made. It's hard not to laugh. "How do I look in my car?". Good, babe.
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And yea shes lucky

