My 2009 G37s 6MT is 8 months old with 9800 miles on it. It gave me the Check Engine/SLIP/VDC lights one morning. I would lose engine power if I went above a certain speed. Above 20mph in first gear and above 30mph in 2<SUP>nd</SUP> gear, it was like someone suddenly cut the gas.
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I took it to my dealer immediately. The service manager came out and said they “found no oil on the dipstick”, which is why it was throwing those warning lights. He asked when the oil was last changed. I told him that I changed the oil back in May at 4,000 miles, using Mobil 1. "You changed it yourself?" I could tell this dealer didn't see too many owners who do their own basic maintenance. I couldn’t get the original filter off, so I figured I’d have the dealer do the 2<SUP>nd</SUP> oil change with the 10,000 mile service. He asked if I had any “proof” of this oil change. I was speechless. Should I look for the empty Mobil 1 bottles or bring in the used oil?
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He went back to have them do a regular oil change. Later that morning, he told me he needed to keep the car longer, and put me in a loaner. Three days later, he said that due to the “lack of oil” the timing got way out of whack and the technician was having to “pretty much take the whole engine apart and put it back together again”. WHAT?!?!?! He told me that Infiniti really recommends that you bring your car in for oil changes, and that if anything happens in the future without proof of an oil change, he won’t do the work under warranty. You mean I can void my warranty by changing my own oil and saving $70-some bucks (they charge $115 or something for a Mobil 1 change)?!?!?!
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I have changed the oil in my cars for 20 years, including 10 years’ worth on my previous car, a G20t, with zero problems. I know how to change oil. I followed the service manual to ensure the quantity and procedure. There have never been any tell-tale signs of an oil leak in my parking spaces or white smoke. One thing I didn’t do was check the levels periodically since May. I never thought I would need to. I never had to before. Precision luxury cars do not burn multiple quarts of oil in five months and 5,000 miles.
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I have to trust that the mechanics know you need to give a hot car a few minutes to let the oil get back down into the pan before testing the levels with the dipstick. I was thinking they didn’t, which would make it look like it was low.
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Anyway, I go back to get it later this afternoon (I hope) and hear the rest of the story, but I think I already know what they’re going to say.
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I’ve definitely gotten addicted to the Tech package, Nav, sport seat, and stickshift. The stock loaner X has been nice in the rain this week, but…
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Thanks for your help!

 

Should've had the dealership change the oil for you. Paying a few bucks to have the dealer change the oil and keeping warranty is better then saving a few bucks and risking your warranty.

Good luck.

 

You are perfectly fine changing your own oil. These engines are known to consume some oil during break in, you might not have a leak or abnormal condition.

In the future just keep your receipts from the oil/filters you buy. Check your oil at least every week at a minimum and you'll avoid a situation where you starve the engine of oil and run into problems.

 

edmunds has a BMW M3 and that thing ran low on oil too. at least the BMW displays it on the screen if you're low on oil. Some people are "car guys" but they can't even check their own oils.

 

You change your own oil and it doesn't occur to you to check the oil level periodically?

 

I know...I got complacent. My G20t (10+ year owner) was always trouble-free with oil levels - you changed it at regular intervals and it was always perfect. Bulletproof.

Great advice, BB.

As an update, they told me I'd be pushing the loaner over the weekend. They were not able to stabilize the idle on my G37. It was surging 4-500 rpm.

But still, where did the oil go? And low oil (2 quarts at the most?) = total system failure? Sounds electronic/fueling to me.

BTW, this is the car I was meant to drive...it really fit the whole bill for me, which is why I'm so bummed. I've found forums like this are an incredible source of information and cameraderie. Case in point: the Buell motorcycle rider's main site, badweatherbikers.com. Buell (my other favorite vehicle) was just discontinued by its parent company, Harley-Davidson, and incredibly personal and short-sighted blow. That site is BLOWING UP. People are ponying up cash to save a motor company and the jobs that were lost. However, I digress...

More updates to come. Thanks for the advice so far...

 

Over a lot of miles, it may have consumed the oil (not leaked it) normally. Some of these engines burn more than other. It may stop as it gets broken in. It's possible that it may continue (the G35 was known to be an oil drinker) and still fall within the "normal" range. Just keep an eye on it. If you detect any leaks or it burns more than a quart over 3000 miles (I think that's the guideline but not 100% sure) take it in for a test.

 

As others have said, just keep all your receipts and document when it was done.

That being said though, after every oil change, regardless of who does it, I check the oil level for the next 3-4 fill ups and then every other fill up.

 

I agree with BB and the others...there's no reason you shouldn't be able to change your oil unless you don't want to. Not changing the filter was a mistake though since you have no idea how much stuff could have been in there from the initial break in. I doubt it could have plugged up completely in that mileage, but you never know. Mine was also almost impossible to get off, but I finally figured out a way to break it free. Not sure why any filter would be put on so tight. This engine's oil change interval is what most car's extreme interval is, so there may be more to it than we think.

 

^^^^ That's why they invented oil filter wrenches kids

 

usually wait till 10 to 15k before going to full synthetic oil.....my guess HR engines have low tension rings and take a while to seat.....my dealer also told me to wait before I put in full synthetic....yours should have told you the same

 

^^^^that's crap. I'm running Pennzoil Platinum, check my oil regularly and have not consumed a DROP of oil.

 

thats crap....pennzoil not full synthetic its a blend...thats why

 

Not trying to split hairs or start a forum fight....but you actually might wanna do your homework here bro:
Pennzoil - Not just oil, Pennzoil

There's a difference between "Full Synthetic" and "100% synthetic". If you don't believe me, google it. Pennzoil Platinum is not a Synthetic blend, it's highly refined Group III oil. Group IV-V oils (like Motul 300v, Redline, Amsoil, etc) are "100% synthetic" PAO or ester based oils.

 

no worries... im not tryin to start anything either.....if you refine the "oil" more than 3 times they are "allowed" to call it synthetic.....i would not even bother to compair pennzoil to motul,redline,amsoil or even elf.....which i've tested personally on an engine dyno....sorry pennzoil...dosent compair.....dont believe everthing you read online....im jus tryin to help