SlateBlue G

iTrader: (2)

so ive been noticing lately my cars bugs out at time.this only happens when the cars been properly warmed up.for instance lets say i go to a store turn my car off and come back like 15-20 mins later i start the car and the rpm needle dips like its about to stall and comes back to the idle point. My car actually stalled out once cuz of this.sometimes its all fine and sometimes it does it.I would just take it to the dealership but my hours kinda been krzy so no time to stop by.any input guys

Gamedog

iTrader: (9)

I've noticed mine do this too... Not to the point to where it turns off though... Drops to about 500 rpms or so then jumps back up... I think you should take it in when you get a chance... Let us know what they tell you man...

willizm

Sometimes have an issue where it stalls when I initially start the car, but don't hold down the clutch all the way to the floor. Nothing wrong with the car, just me being retarded.

Staples

iTrader: (9)

Have you done the TSB for the bank actuator? Reason why I ask is because I had the same exact issue until I got the service bulletin, now I have no issues whatsoever. You turn the car on, then the needle dips below normal idle to the point where it feels like it's going to stall. If you didn't I suggest next time you get an oil change you have them do it. Say the car is "knocking" after driving for a while.

delfin2003

that happened to mine too. I added more oil, closer to FULL on the mark. Still did it. Took it to the dealer and they cleared the error codes in the ECU and it never did it again. They said that it was caused by a computer misscominication and error codes in ECU were messing it up (sound a little like BS to me though). But add oil for sure..especially if you park on incline.

squarehead

iTrader: (1)

bumping this up as I've been having the same issue intermittently.

I've reset ECU and cleaned TB's several times but it still happens. Randomly, 1/10 times - makes me curious.

evil-G-nius

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar issue too. The other day mine stalled twice, the third time I blipped the throttle and it stayed running. This is only the second time this has happened to me but it was weird

takeapieandrun

iTrader: (2)

Did this to me at the airport the other month. Never actually stalled though.

squarehead

iTrader: (1)

Yeah - to be clear, mine has never actually stalled out. Just random RPM dip at startup that seems like it's about to stall

donshou

I also had the issue with stalling on startup too. The dealer replaced my battery citing it would resolve the issue. It doesn't stall anymore, but it dips to 500 rpm.

SlateBlue G

iTrader: (2)

wow bringing back my old thread lol.
Guys clean the throttle body and you MUST do the idle air relearn procedure.
Make sure you get 2 new gaskets as well. You're welcome


Idle Air Volume Learning

Description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced, or if idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

Preparation:
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

- Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
- Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 Degrees C (158 – 212 Degrees F)
- PNP switch: ON (Park/Neutral Position Safety Switch - AT only, MT fully depress clutch)
- Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, rear window defogger, headlamps. Note: on vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamps will not be illuminated.)
- Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
- Vehicle speed: Stopped
- Transmission: Warmed-up (For A/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.)

Operation Procedure:
1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning"
2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning"
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds:
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications:

Kb Cool

I just did this today. Disconnected the battery last night. Came out this morning and pulled the throttle bodies. I know they say, not to move the butterfly valves . But, i did it anyways! How else are you going to clean the area between the valve and the bore? Anyways, put everything back together. Car started up just fine and seemed to idle ok too. Went for a quick spin, came back home and did the idle relearn and all is well.

SlateBlue G

iTrader: (2)

I've molested the butterfly 3-4 times now and my throttle body is fine.
Did your butt dyno notice that it pulled harder after the clean?

Kb Cool

No, i haven't romped on it yet since the cleaning. But, it is idling better and feels much smoother. Do you also disconnect the battery before moving the butterfly?