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I took a couple of pictures to help members out. I heard a few people say it's rather difficult to hold the nut inside the subframe. I used a magnet to hold it in place.
After install I noticed the nut and washer combo inside the subframe doesn't seat 100% flush inside the hole. Is this normal, or does it need to be shifted slightly?
Install took less than 30 minutes, did not require loosening and moving the rear diff.
I have whiteline diff bushings and z1 subframe collar inserts.
Great pictures, thanks for posting them them... great idea with the magnet...did you need to remove the wheel to get clearance to get the tools into the subframe?...Z1 and bell have been sold out/back ordered for a while but I was finally able to order one yesterday so hope to install mine soon
I had the same issue. The small welded on washer needs to go completely inside the hole. Bell had to send me another brace, but yours looks like it would fit and may just be positioned wrong..
I contacted Z1 and was told that it should seat flush with the hole. The very next day I tried loosening all the nuts and bolts and tried again to get the nut to sit perfectly flush with the hole and it was pretty much impossible so I gave up and just installed it as-is.
Z1 told me
"We would recommend you try to readjust the brace and re-tighten this to see if it will correct. It should not be an issue but we would try to get it flush".
Ever since I got my vehicle tuned from a complete stop I would just spin all through 1st and 2nd gears. I was convinced that I needed wider stickier tires to be able to launch without getting tire spin. I'm running Contintental DWS06 245/45-18s in the rear mounted on 18x9 Enkei RPF1s.
After installing this rear diff brace I can launch the car from a complete stop and get very little to almost no wheel spin. The difference is very drastic. I have a 7AT.
Before the tune I had 0 problems with traction. I never experienced wheel spin in my car at all. After getting it tuned I experienced lack of traction for the first time ever. What I'm trying to say is if you are stock than a rear diff brace most likely won't make a noticeable difference for you (Unless you are a 6-spd and can launch the car hard).
If you are bolt-ons and tuned you will definitely notice a difference out of the hole.
I have Whiteline urethane rear diff bushings, Z1 subframe collar inserts & this bell raceworks rear diff brace. All 3 of those work together to make the rear end of the car feel very tight.
Right now I have a cracked flex plate so I have been taking it easy until I get a chance to replace it sometime next week.
How'd you crack the flex plate? And what are the symptoms
No idea how I cracked my flex plate but it happened shortly after getting the car tuned. The symptoms is a ticking / rattle / knocking noise that sounds like it's coming from the bottom of the engine and can only be heard coming from the wheel well area or under the car. When listening for the noise in the engine bay underhood it's quiet.
Vehicle still drives normally. I've actually been driving it with a cracked flex plate for about a month now. When it happened I didn't know it was the flex plate so I was still driving the dog **** out of it and launching hard. I've been taking it easy for the last week now. Just got my replacement flex plate delivered today, will be installing it myself early next week.
Stick to the diff brace, please. A new thread in Tech/Engine, Drivetrain, Forced Induction is warranted as a cracked flex plate is a rather rare occurance.
04-12-2019, 09:56 AM
