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Elongate rear toe bolt hole - what dremel bit?

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Old Feb 13, 2019 | 12:56 PM
  #16  
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Top left nut is the one he will need to elongate to get toe in spec. I need to do mine as well. I'm on the ragged edge of what is acceptable. Been wayyyy too cold the past days.
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Old Feb 15, 2019 | 11:45 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by teahead

Are you elongating the hole that's on the frame?

I think that's the frame per the picture.
Yes, I am gonna elongate it, I got some dremel bits on Amazon. I am planning to do this all tomorrow, so I'll take pictures if my hands aren't too filthy.

Hashim - I took your advice and I bought a big bottle of Permatex anti seize. Now I will have silver sleeves and hands thanks for the suggestion. It makes sense. I'd rather wash grease off than have non-adjustable coilovers. It is a pretty simple decision when you think of it that way.

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Old Feb 17, 2019 | 11:22 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by PNW_IPL
no problem .
goodluck. They make quick work of the subframe.
I searched for that Dremel bit on Amazon, and noticed in the results some cheap "tungsten carbide" bits for like $5 for 8. Like a stupid idiot, I bought them. Well, they are worthless. They cut for about 1/4 second until they were worn smooth.

So I am going to buy the real Dremel 115 today from home Depot and finish the job (I had to clean up and go somewhere yesterday)
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Old Feb 17, 2019 | 04:32 PM
  #19  
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I recall from old threads here that the g37 frame is tough to shave through . Looking forward to ur updates. I did it on my g35 which wasn't too bad. Decided to jus pay a shop to do it on my g37 lol
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Old Feb 17, 2019 | 05:12 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by saywat?
I recall from old threads here that the g37 frame is tough to shave through . Looking forward to ur updates. I did it on my g35 which wasn't too bad. Decided to jus pay a shop to do it on my g37 lol
correct. 350z and g35 are aluminum vs the steel we have. Those bits made quick work on my nismo. Have not done it on the Gs steel frame.

interested as well op.

btw i did use those bits on the demon bolt once the cats were off. They worked on that steel so they should work on the steel sub frame.
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Old Feb 18, 2019 | 11:18 PM
  #21  
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Ok, I did it today after work. "Like butter" definitely does not describe how these cut, but I am sure if it was aluminum they would eat through it like no tomorrow! Still, they did pretty good against steel. I used one bit per side (two came in the package and it definitely slowed down after the second hole). It took me about an 1.5 hours to jack the car up, drop the spring buckets, and grind the holes. It probably took about 5-10 minutes of grinding per hole, the rest of the time was spent scratching lines in the metal, jacking the car up, positioning my body, and being enraged and angry. Also, it started pouring buckets of rain as I was putting everything back together in the dark, so I didn't get to install my rear camber arms.






Last edited by Infinibini; Feb 18, 2019 at 11:20 PM. Reason: I am a stupid idiot.
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Old Feb 19, 2019 | 09:14 AM
  #22  
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LOL we have matching war wounds....

I installed mine Sunday and the 115 bit was not happy with what I was asking it to do. I picked up the 1/8 steel cutting bit and that made pretty quick work of the steel frame but was a rough finish. I then used the 115 to clean up the edges.
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Old Feb 19, 2019 | 10:05 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by RMB5190
LOL we have matching war wounds....

I installed mine Sunday and the 115 bit was not happy with what I was asking it to do. I picked up the 1/8 steel cutting bit and that made pretty quick work of the steel frame but was a rough finish. I then used the 115 to clean up the edges.
There is a steel cutting bit? Dang it!!!!! Oh well, if I ever need to cut more steel I will remember that.
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