Michael Moheban

Good Evening Everybody,




Id like to preface this by saying this method only works if the fault code was caused by a dirty MAP sensor. This method works just as well for both MAF sensors if they caused the fault (MAF = P0101). This method will not work if your MAP sensor is physically broken.




Ok so my 2011 Infiniti G37x preforms beautifully; always smooth, and sharp. Every few months however, the MAP sensor triggers a fault code. So how do we fix this?




You're going to want to grab a flat head screwdriver from your toolbox and tighten the screw clamps around the intake piping. One reason the MAP sensor faulted could be a leak in your vacuum intake lines. Any leaks can cause pressure discrepancies within the engine, which screws with your MAP sensor. You're going to want to visually inspect them for cracks, breaks, deformations, and holes. If it passes your visual inspection to your satisfaction it's time to take the engine cover off to get to the MAP sensor, which is located on far right corner of the top portion of the engine block. If you're having trouble finding your MAP sensor, click here to view a google images search of the MAP's location.




Now remove the screw holding the MAP sensor to the engine, for this you'll need a 10mm socket wrench. With some MAF/MAP sensor cleaner spray the inside of the sensor 8-10 times, making sure to flip the sensor upside down to allow for the fluid to drain. After your done spraying the sensor, put the Engine cover back your car, and let the sensor sit for 15-20 minutes under room temperature conditions, to allow the cleaning solvent to evaporate. It also doesn't hurt to give the electrical connection a squick spray or 2, to clean it out. A good way to tell if your sensor is free from any cleaning solvent is to give it a small (I mean very small) sniff. The cleaner is made from non-polar organic volatile substances, so I recommend caution, and gloves, when you're using the stuff. Once you're sure your sensor is free of any residual solvent, put the sensor back, and secure it with its screw. Once this is done you can plug the sensor cable into the sensor. It doesn't really matter if you plug it in before you screw it down, I just find it easier to use the socket wrench without the wiring there. Now you're all set to put the engine cover back on.




Once the engine cover is back on, we need to reset the ECU BEFORE you turn the car on. I find it easiest to follow along with video, which always works for me. I find it best to follow along exactly what he's doing as he's doing it in the video. It might take 1 or 2 tries but you'll get it.




Once you do this you're all set to turn your car on! I usually let it idle for 20 minutes, so the ECU can get new data for the cleaned sensor. At this point, if the only issue was the dirty sensor, you should NOT see the Service Engine Soon light come on. If the sensor is malfunctioning, the ECU will recognize this during the idle period, and you should get the same fault code. This means the sensor needs to be replaced. OEM sensors have never steered me wrong, but can be on the expensive side. The Hitachi MAP sensor is a decent choice, although less reliable, it is much more affordable at around half the price (~$105) compared to OEM (from Infiniti, ~$235).




Also, feel free to recommend better ways of doing this, as well as advice. I'm a chemist, not a mechanic but this has always worked for me. Best of Luck!




-M




Edit 1: Grammar/Spelling; DO NOT SPRAY THE ENGINE BLOCK WITH MAP/MAF SENSOR CLEANER, ONLY SPRAY THE SENSOR AWAY FROM THE ENGINE

rgsurfs

Great article, Took vehicle to auto store, they read the code P0106, I cleaned throttle bodies, changed filters and replaced the MAP sensor. Then reset the SES light... OUTSTANDING... It all worked first time..

THANKS !!!!!

Cost me about $140 total and an hour of my time.

Robert

Vedran0621

You the man!

Inf_g37_2010

Hi there,
I got P0106 and replaced the MAP sensor but again got the same error.

Now I found out there is another MAP sensor. I ordered and waiting to replace the other one. IS IT EASY TO REPLACE THIS ONE? ANY TRICK OR SURPRISE??!!!


"Images from partsgeek"

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

The VQ37VHR only uses one (1) MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. This is the first sensor in your pics (one bolt hole). Nissan/ Infiniti p/n: 22365-EY00B. This engine DOES use two (2) MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensors.

I do not know what the second sensor (two bolt holes) pictured is for- or from- offhand...

SonicVQ

The second sensor is the absolute pressure sensor for the brake booster.

When the VVEL is controlling the air intake to the engine, the intake manifold vacuum is very low, about 80 KPa / 4 inHg
There is a one way valve in the line from the intake manifold to the brake booster.
This sensor monitors how much brake booster vacuum there is, and when it gets low, the ECU will close/open the throttle bodies to increase the booster vacuum.
Cool huh?

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the identification and info- I never would have thought that but then there is a lot to these VQ's and VR's that Im finding "cool." Sad that these engines will be the last of their lines- if not the V6 entirely...

SonicVQ

The only reason I found out about that sensor was when I was at the scrap yard looking for a MAP sensor to measure crankcase pressure.
When I saw it had a barbed port, I grabbed it and read up on it to find out its function.

On a different note, I am also a little sad that we are in the "sunset" of the internal combustion engine.
Having said that, I may have to my duty to keep good examples of engines and keep my G37 AND buy the new Z.
400 HP, mechanical locking diff and 6 speed manual checks all the boxes!

ILM-NC G37S

iTrader: (3)

Not to stray off topic, but Im not sold on the new Z, yet (though I said the same thing about the new Supra until I saw it in person, but damn its only a rebadged BMW (hard NO)). Though I will never part with my G, I am struggling to find something that I actually like to add to the stable.

Again, thanks for the info on brake boost sensor!

BULL

As far as this fault goes, in my own experience and those of tuners.
Only times you should see this fault are:
Voltages being off due to air leak
In correct reading due to electrical connection
Running a G37 ECM on a 370z

That last one was fun. Trying out a 370z ecm on a G37 we found that NIssan with the 370z ditched the MAP and replaced it with a DUD.
It's a fake sensor with no internal electronics that plugs the hole, the wiring even plugs in. But no sensor = no reading.

The sensor itself has a flexible metal sheet that air pushes or pulls on, sensor converts this into numbers and you get your reading. Because of this design it makes it pretty robust and resilient to any dust/dirt. Granted debris can still affect it however the changes wont be as significant as a dirty MAF

As for the new Z... I believe it will follow the same fate of the first gen R35 GTR everyone will use and abuse then they'll be cheap for a bit with the rise of updated models until everyone with updated models realize it's the same car and it's cheaper to upgrade the older model. Hope the dash doesnt melt!

bedhead

So excited for reviving this old post as my first post here, sorry and thank you if anyone can answer my question. After buying a new Hitachi MAP sensor off Amazon and clearing the P0106 code, the CEL came back. I thought maybe it was because I didn't reset the ECU after putting in the new sensor. After resetting the ECU it took away the "permanent trouble code" off my Blue Driver code reader, I thought that should do it. A few days later the CEL is back. I thought maybe the Hitachi sensor was defective, but I'm having doubts that it's the sensor throwing the code.

Has anyone found that the problem was something else, like a vacuum leak or dirty throttle bodies? I feel like I'm going down a rabbit hole with this apparent very common problem. Can anyone help me or lead me in the right direction for what to check next?

SonicVQ

A P0106 has nothing to do with a MAF... Did BlueDriver lead you to that?
You may want to search for " Infiniti TSB P0106"

bedhead

Did I say MAF or MAP? I thought this entire thread was dedicated the fault code related to the MAP sensor.

BlueDriver said this fault code was very common and the most common fix was to reset the ECU, which I did, on top of replacing the MAP sensor as shown in the pictures earlier in this thread. There is no TSB for P0106, or am I mistaken? I'm looking for anyone who had a similar problem that a new sensor did not fix.

SonicVQ

Crap, I guess I should re-read my responses with my glasses on!

BULL

You should be able to check the values of this sensor. Many times a faulty sensor will show itself on the on board diagnostics.

Pay close attention to your vacuum levels, anything under 19inhg and a high throttle angle will mean vacuum leak. Ideally with the AC off in P/N it should be closer to 22inhg.

Any type of post MAF intake leak can trigger this code. A bursted out oil seal has the ability to produce a leak since the PCV pulls vacuum into a "sealed engine" it's possible that significant oil leak might me leaking vacuum as well.

Lastly as s side note, many 370z came without a MAP sensor, when you use G37 ecm's on 370z engines you throw this light because in many 370z VHRs there is only a dummy "blank" MAP sensor.

The difference is that the Z "sensor" doesnt have any pins nor the metal film inside that detects vacuum/pressure, if you're not paying attention you wouldn't look at it twice.