I read in a previous thread that when you add the additional ground wires you are bypassing the voltage regulator and may experience problems with the battery under charging or over charging.
Has anyone had this issue after installing grounding wires?

 

There have been a few people that have had battery charging issues when connecting the grounding kit directly to the negative terminal on the battery (which bypasses the current sensor). However, based on this poll, most do not have issues:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/general...y-failure.html

^ Post #7 has a good explanation.

You can still install a grounding kit, but connect it to the negative cable where it mounts to the frame just passed the sensor. This may not be as effective in terms of grounding but may be a safer way to do it. And it will still create a better ground from the engine, TB (whatever you connect the grounding wires to) to the frame.

 

There's also a little room to pass a ground wire (those flat braided ones) through the current sensor along side of the original wire...... just saying......

 

Has anyone added a ground wire from the battery to the regulator and then a second wire from regulator to frame?
That will in effect increase the ground wire size but still use the regulator in it's full design function by not bypassing it.
Or is the regulator a sort of bottleneck for current flow?

 

It's not a regulator, it is a sensor. The ground wire does not connect to it, but rather goes through it.

Do a Google search for open loop and/or closed loop current sensors.

*edit*
Here is an example.... Note, our cars do not have nearly the extra room that this pic shows.

 

Thank you very much.
That is very good information.
I will follow up once I see how much wire I can get through the space.
That is unless you know if there is enough room to feed a 8 ga wire through

 

Unfortunately there is not, it is very tight. But like Pope said, you might be able to fit a flat braided grounding wire in there.

So your grounding kit would need to be connected to the frame at the point the negative wire from the battery does. Then connect a flat braided wire to the same point, and lead it through the sensor and to the negative terminal on the battery.

In addition to the grounding kit, you would get something like this: https://www.delcity.net/store/Ground...hoCikUQAvD_BwE

 

I was able to feed a 8 gauge wire through the current sensor.
The fit was snug but I did not have to put much pressure on it.
This should eliminate any issues with under or over charging.

 

Surprised it fit. Hopefully it is not putting too much pressure on the sensor housing.

I guess when I did my grounding kit, I used 4 gauge wire which will not fit for sure.

 

4 ga won't fit for sure.
8ga wire can carry quite a bit of current especially considering a vehicle electrical system operating at 12 v
8 ga wire can be used for 220 v and carry quite a load.
it was not tight but snug.

 

looks like a great way to deal with this issue...so does this mean that all the grounding kit connections in the DIY's terminating at the neg batt post are moved to the end of this wire? can you post a picture of what it looks like on that end?

 

The kits just spread the existing ground points to more locations.

 

. . . and make the car faster because your wallet is lighter!

 

The picture is of the DIY wire connected to the neg battery terminal.
It passes through the sensor and is connected to the passenger side fender where there are existing wires.

 

Well I put mine in over the weekend...I honestly don't think the radio works any better (if anything one of the stations I usually tune into seems to be worse) and can't tell if the paddles are any quicker for sure as all I've had time for was rush hour stop and go driving. I will say though that the tranny seems less confused but that might just be cause I left he battery disconnected over night... but it does look nice...lol

For the TB cable I made it using two runs of wire combined at the battery. As an FYI cause I couldn't find it anywhere:

the battery to the drivers side run is about 32 inches and the battery to the pass side is about 18 inches... they were both a bit too long but tucked away nicely anyways....