In searching I did not see a DIY write-up for installing extended lugs on your G and just so happened to take a good amount of pics this past weekend after completing the job. I installed extedned studs for the front of my sedan and also replaced all studs in the rear with OEM. Without further a do.

Tools I used:

Extended wheel studs, for my installation I used 10mm from Z1 which can found here.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...ds-p-5124.html

I also used Z1's wheel stud installer tool which helps pull the new stud through the hole.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/wheels...ol-p-9582.html

Magnetic Bolt retriever -
Standard hammer

Socket extension bar

Open ended lug nut

Socket or 4 way lug wrench


Step one - jack up the car safely on jack stands and remove wheel(s).

Step two - removing the old studs. The nice thing about the front hub/brakes is that you DO NOT need to remove the brake caliper or anything else on the car. You spin the hub until the back of bolt lines up with the opening in the back of hub. This is how the back of the hub will look.





Once you have it lined up, hammer the front of the stud until it pops out. At this time is when I used the magnetic bolt retriever to assist with removing the stud out the back as my hands are on the larger side plus it just makes things that much easier.

This is what you should see next is the empty hole



Your front should start looking like this.

**Note I would not knock all 5 studs out at the same time. I left 1 old one while I was installing the new stud to help use as leverage when using the stud installing tool along with my lug nut.



Step 3 - Start installing your new extended studs or OEM.



Here's a few pics for comparison of OEM vs Extended.







Step 4 - Put the new stud on the magnetic retriever and from behind the hub you can feed the new stud into the hole. Note you may have to turn the hub slightly as you are lining up the stud and hole.





Step 5 - Sorry I did not get a picture but its pretty easy and self explanatory. With the new stud lined up in the hole, I took the socket extension and the hammer and gently hit the back of the stud until it popped through the hole.

Step 6 - While holding the extension on the back of the stud still to give it enough pressure to hold while I installed the wheel stud installer and lug nut.





Step 7 - Put your open ended lug nut on the end of the stud and start tightening down until he new stud is threaded into the hole. Once that occurs then back the lug nut off and remove the installer tool. You are now done with that stud! Repeat this process for remaining studs, it would also be a good time to go in and clean up any rust you may see to help ensure a clean contact, put wheel back on, tighten lug nuts, lower car, enjoy a cold one!




Finished Product




I did have 1 broken stud in the rear as well as 1 cross threaded stud. I did not need extended studs in the rear with my setup and choose to replace all rear studs with OEM. Figured since I would be in there, why not.




The biggest difference from the front vs the rear is that you do have to remove 2 whole bolts to slide the caliper off the rotor and you have to take the rotor off to access the studs. This may sound like a lot but it really isn't.

While I did not take hardly any pictures, I'll do my best to outline the rear as well.

With wheel off you'll want to remove the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on. Both are 19mm, the top one was accessible with a socket while the bottom one I had to use a wrench due to the tight quarters.



Once those 2 bolts are removed you will want to secure the caliper from falling, I used bungee chord.

Next step once the caliper is secured, you'll want to take the rotor off. There are many ways to do this. On my car I found the easiest way was to take a rubber mallet and tap the back of the rotor while pulling towards me. I did have to turn the hub a couple times but both rotors came off without a fight. If you get stuck here, Youtube it, there are aot of helpful vids with tricks of getting rotors off.

Once the rotor is off you will see there is alot more room than the front assembly.

Same method, tap stud out with hammer, just be sure to line up so that the stud will fully come out.



Next follow the steps outlined above with installing the new studs as its the same process.

Once the stud(s) are replaced then simply reverse your steps taken and install the rotor and caliper back.


OEM Studs - part 43222-70T00



Used vs new

 

Well done!

 

Nice DIY...thanks for posting.

Question about the "stud" installer tool...couldn't you just use a shallow socket as a "spacer" to tighten the lug onto instead

 

Sure, there are plenty of ways to tighten the stud. This just made it very easy

 

Awesome DIY man. Really helpful.

 

Great job, this is "sticky" worthy!

 

Excellent DYI thanks!
One tip on the removing the rear rotors, Pop out the rubber grommet in the center and loosen the parking brake adjuster cog (silver toothed barrel in your picture)
That will release the pressure the parking brake shoes might be putting on the rear caliper. And give you more room to wiggle the rotor free.
Just remember to re-adjust them when you put the caliper back on.

 

Thanks a lot . I replaced a slipped stud front right on a 2012 G37s 6MT sedan following the instructions. Highly recommend the use of magnetic holder. Would have save me half an hour.