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1 - Jack up your vehicle and support it on jack stands.
2 - Without getting under the vehicle, grasp each wheel at the top and bottom and attempt to rock it. There should be minimal movement. Excessive play may indicate that the wheel bearing is worn and needs to be replaced
3 - Put the gearshift in Neutral and rotate the wheel.Listen for any unusual noise and feel for any roughness around the A arm or steering components as the wheel rotates
Replacing front wheel bearings for RWD G37
1 - Jack up both sides of your car, set it safely on jack stands and chock the rear wheels.
2 - Remove the wheel.
3 - Turn the wheel to the right to clear up some room and remove the caliper and rotors. (you can leave the car on so that the steering does not lock. Since the front of the car is lifted off the ground you can manually move the direction of the wheel assembly without having to touch the steering wheel)
4- Remove the brake line clip with a 12mm wrench.
5 - Remove the caliper by removing these two bolts with a 22mm socket.
6 - Remove the caliper and rotor. (never hang the caliper from its lines, you can use cable ties or a bungee cord to hold it up)
7 - Using your 17mm socket remove the 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing in place.
8 - Turn the wheel to the left and remove the hard to get bolt all the way at the bottom corner and remove the ABS sensor(10mm).
9 - Once all four bolts have been removed you can pull your bearing off, if it is stuck a couple light taps with a rubber hammer will set it loose. Make sure you remember the way the backing plate is mounted, last thing you want to do is re-do the job all over again.
So I changed mine! Used the Timeken Brand. FYI for anyone doing it:
The Timeken has a backplate with a slit in it. You have to line it up to put the ABS sensor through the backplate. I found that after torqueing all bolts to spec
Great write up Jas, thanks. This job went really smoothly for me and didn't take long. None of the bolts required more than a 2' breaker bar and a reasonable amount of force.
The trickiest part was pulling the hub out. Luckily a slide hammer made quick work of that. I'd recommend not using your lug nuts with the slide hammer.
I undid both the front and back brake line mounts and held the caliper up much higher (see picture below). This allowed me to access the 4 bolts that secure the hub to the knuckle much easier.
pretty much the same for the AWD except for the axle getting in the way but super easy! you can actually use a hub puller instead of a slide hammer since there is the axle to push against
Is there any pressing involved when replacing the front wheel bearings? Do these hubs need to be pressed to the spindle or to any other steering components beside tightening the bolts? Great write by the way
Is there any pressing involved when replacing the front wheel bearings? Do these hubs need to be pressed to the spindle or to any other steering components beside tightening the bolts? Great write by the way
no. Theres no pressing. On the first gen G the rear bearings needed to be pressed think, but on all the 2nd gen g's front and rear the hub and bearings come as 1 piece assemblies that just bolt into the spindle arm.
I haven't done this on my G37 yet, but did it a few times on my old 2006 G35X. The trick there was to back out the 4 bolts holding the hub a little at a time, tapping all of the bolt head lightly, in a criss cross pattern, with a hammer. Loosen the 4 bolts a little more and repeat the tapping. This works the hub assembly forward a little at a time. Keep repeating until the hub assembly is free.
I expect it to be similar for the G37, but I'll find out for sure when I do mine in a few weeks.
11-14-2012, 04:17 PM
