Proper way to change your brake pads, even Auto Shops will refuse to do on your car.

Tools and etc.
Torque Wrench, a wrench, jack stands, jack, two bottles of brake clean, couple of shop towel, new brake pads, and caliper grease lubricant.

I always like to start with my front wheels. No particular reason, they are just easier. Unlike your rear wheels your front wheel will turn. So makes easier to inspect pads, make sure they need to be changed before proceeding.

Note: On a DIY posted by another member had extra step of removing your calipers. But I don't see the need to remove your calipers completely unless you are changing your rotors as well. So read on our Akebono's are designed to simplify brake pad change.

1. Pull your HAND BRAKES. While on the ground turn all five lugs 1/4 turn. Lift the car. Support with Jack Stands. Go to opposite side wheel and do the same. After both left and right side are secure balanced with Jack Stands. Rock your car gently to make sure the car is balanced. Remove lugz and tire.

2. Turn your steering wheel or rotors to the side. To expose better your Brake Pads. Spray small amount of brake clean to remove any dust from pads. Remove two clips which secure your hitch pins. The hitch pins are actually the simple rods which are driven through in order to secure your brake pads. Slide them gently out.

3. When you slide the rods out the brackets over the pads will also pop. Apply gentle pressure to old brake pads gently to relieve pressure exerted by your pistons. You don't have to force them, a gentle pull will do. At first you will feel your pistons push back but will loosen and provide enough room to slide the old brake pads out. But before make sure you push the pistons all the way back. Your new pads are much thicker than your old ones.

4. Now is a good time to use at least half bottle of brake clean inside the caliper. While your brake pads are out. You will see all the dirt accumulated Where before sat your brake pads and inside of your rotors. This step is very important. As you spray you will see for your self all the dust come off. Also spray on your rotors after so that any of the dust you removed from inside of your caliper end up on your rotors. Wipe excess using a shop towel.

5. With major brake pad manufacturers they will include Brake Part Lubricant. If they are not included at any auto parts you are able to get em very cheap. Make sure to apply them both top and bottom of the brake pads where they slide into your caliper. Not on the surface of your pads not the back. Slide in the new pads.

6. Slide back the rods and secure em with the pin. Make sure the cover is also put back. Put the wheel back on, properly torque and move onto the next wheel.

Auto Shops for lack of care or whatever. Most will not use brake clean nor grease brake lubricants. They are very important to ensure even wear of your pads. Dirt and dust makes pads not align properly. Prone to uneven pad wear. You will encounter common problems later, brake squeal, small vibrations, or in sever case warping of your rotor.

After all 4 brake jobs are done. Make sure to re-torque. Check for any loose lug nuts. Put your tools in their proper place. Always make sure your work area is clean and organized. To avoid any Major accidents.

Until you properly bed-in your brakes. Do not press your brake pedals with full force. Never come to complete stop with brake pedals pressed. Go easy at first you will not have knock back force into your brake pedals before all the pistons are properly aligned exerting pressure into your brake pads. Could take few pumps.

Bed-In
go to a safe place where you are comfortable of doing following.

45mph down to 15mph ten times consecutive. Never coming to a complete stop.
55mph down to 20mph ten times consecutive. Never coming to a complete stop.

Almost done check to see roughly if all rotors exert similar temperature. Making sure all brake pads are installed correctly.

NOW DONE

I will change my pads tomorrow, so while doing I will take some pictures and post them here.

 

Great write up. Should helP a lot of people:

 

awesome write up. is this the same with non-sport brake? can i still change the pad w/o removing the calipers?

 

sticky status!

 

Always here to help, Sincerely JOHN
Slight different for NON-Sport. Require less strength, and also no need to remove calipers.
Thank you, since you guys are going to be changing your own brake pads from now on. I will offer the Performance Hawk Pads at Jobber Pricing. Plus Free Shipping. Price I only offer to auto shops who will do your brake pad change.

So read on, pick your favorite pad from Hawk Performance. Order below USING PAYPAL Secure add to cart button.

HPS - High Performance Street

Stopping Power = 10 Very Good
Rotor & Pad Wear = 8 Above Average
Noise = 8 Above Average depends on proper bed-in
Dust = 8 Above Average
Compound = Ferro Carbon abrasive
Application = High Performance from Street to Track

PC - Performance Ceramic

Stopping Power = 8 Above Average
Rotor & Pad Wear = 8 Above Average
Noise = 9 Good
Dust = 9Good
Compound = Ceramic
Application = Luxury Daily & Performance Touring

HP PLUS - Autocross & Track Compound

Stopping Power = 10 Excellent
Rotor & Pad Wear = 2 Poor
Noise = 1 Very Poor Sucks
Dust = 1 Very Poor Sucks
Compound = Ferro-Carbon
Application = Track Use ONLY

Performance Rating: 1=Poor 10= Excellent (for each category listed above)


For Infiniti G37 with Sport Big Brake

HB602N.545 Disc Brake Pad HP Plus Rear $104
HB601N.626 Disc Brake Pad HP Plus Front $149
HB602F.545 Disc Brake Pad HPS Performance Street Rear $84
HB601F.626 Disc Brake Pad HPS Performance Street Front $114
HB602Z.545 Disc Brake Pad Performance Ceramic Rear $94
HB601Z.626 Disc Brake Pad Performance Ceramic Front $124
<form target="paypal" action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post"><input name="cmd" value="_s-xclick" type="hidden"><input name="hosted_button_id" value="X387MFXA4YGU8" type="hidden">
<table><tbody><tr><td><input name="on0" value="Choose your Pads" type="hidden">Choose your Pads</td></tr><tr><td><select name="os0"> <option value="HB602N.545">HB602N.545 $104.00</option> <option value="HB601N.626">HB601N.626 $149.00</option> <option value="HB602F.545">HB602F.545 $84.00</option> <option value="HB601F.626">HB601F.626 $114.00</option> <option value="HB602Z.545">HB602Z.545 $94.00</option> <option value="HB601Z.626">HB601Z.626 $124.00</option> </select> </td></tr></tbody></table>
<input src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_cart_LG.gif" name="submit" alt="PayPal - The safer, easier way to pay online!" border="0" type="image">

</form>For Infiniti G37 without Big Brake

HB600N.539 Disc Brake Pad HP Plus Rear $94
HB600F.539 Disc Brake Pad HPS Performance Street Rear $69
HB387F.547 Disc Brake Pad HPS Performance Street Front $79
HB600Z.539 Disc Brake Pad Performance Ceramic Rear $74
HB387Z.547 Disc Brake Pad Performance Ceramic Front $84
<form target="paypal" action="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr" method="post">
<table><tbody><tr><td><input name="on0" value="Choose your Pads" type="hidden">Choose your Pads</td></tr><tr><td><select name="os0"> <option value="HB600N.539">HB600N.539 $94.00</option> <option value="HB600F.539">HB600F.539 $69.00</option> <option value="HB387F.547">HB387F.547 $79.00</option> <option value="HB600Z.539">HB600Z.539 $74.00</option> <option value="HB387Z.547">HB387Z.547 $84.00</option> </select> </td></tr></tbody></table>
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Price as sold in pairs. Shipping costs included W/I USA, Including Alaska, Hawaii & Puerto Rico.

 

Lets start. Pads exposed. All dirty inside.


After removing pin, rod and bracket.


Removed only the pads without removing Rotor. Inside all dirty


Inside after cleaning using break cleaner.


Apply Caliper grease lubricant


Consider Cleaning also the bracket, Rods, and the pins.


ALL CLEAN AND DONE If you want to make the calipers shine, now is the time. Spend little extra time and clean them.

 

thanks for posting this, I know it will help me and I'm sure it will help a lot of other people!!

 

Always here to help

 

For us non-S owners, are there any adds / deletes?
Thanks for the write up!

 

ADD
1. Clean area around Brake fluid Reservoir.
2. Open up the cap to relieve piston pressure.
3. Unbolt Calipers just enough the cast iron shims will slide open.
4. Bleed your brakes.

Well I guess for Non-BBK's you can't cheat like us. The two bolts which secure your calipers are torqued by super man. Make sure you have in hand a JAW Breaker. Or extended arm wrench. Use bolt loosening fluids so you don't strip your bolts.

Recommeded: When you open Break Fluid Reservoir Cap. We recommend bleeding your brakes right after changing your pads. Since you have just introduced moisture to your brake fluids. Which later produce bubbles in you brake system.

Now the advantage you have over BBK's. Since you have opened up the Calipers. Better access inside for cleaning. Also will require less Brake Cleaners.

Our BBK's from Akebono most removal of parts, and during reassembly. We have to rely on our finger tips. Rather than our vision. There is no room to stick your head and look at small holes and parts. For the rear brake job.

 

Thank you JEBperformance

 

still not sure what to do with non-sport yet. if u could also show some picture for non-sport, it would be awesome. ah and how do you know when it's time to change? like how many mm of pad left?

 

Since I have never done brake pad change on G37 without Akebono's I thought best way is for you to see the service manual from Infiniti.
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Awesome write up. Dumb questions as this will be my first time replacing brake pads.
1. I am assuming you need to remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir so when you push in the pistons on the Sport model caliper, the fluid can rise slightly?
2. I am purchasing Wagner Thermo Quiets...any thoughts on that brand?

Thanks

 

great post