DIY: Replacing your Brake Pad on 08+ G37S
#32
#33
I have a 2009 G37x and was wondering if its the same procedure as the S model. Do I need to replace the rotors if I get ceramic brake pads? Is there anything else I need to do for the X model? Thank you for the help.
#34
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
I just replaced my rear pads with akebono proacts. I used the supplied grease between the back of the pad and the backing plate, and then again to the outside of the backing plate. I also greased the sides where it touches the caliper, just like was pictured in this thread.
My rear rotors are new, as were the previous pads, however they squealed like crazy when cold, and then again when they warmed up. so I bought a new set to see if that would do the trick. Both these were beck arnley premium oe replacements. Now I went with the akebono pads on the beck arnley rotors.
After the install i did the bed in procedure. Unfortunately the new pads are just as bad. Loud squeal for the first 1 or 2 brake applications in the morning, and then again after about 10 minutes of city driving.
What am I doing wrong?!?! My neighbours are going to hate me if my rear brakes keep squealing this bad first thing in the morning.
Of course, this is all in addition to the dreaded front brake squeal when reversing out of my garage. No apparent fix to that...
My rear rotors are new, as were the previous pads, however they squealed like crazy when cold, and then again when they warmed up. so I bought a new set to see if that would do the trick. Both these were beck arnley premium oe replacements. Now I went with the akebono pads on the beck arnley rotors.
After the install i did the bed in procedure. Unfortunately the new pads are just as bad. Loud squeal for the first 1 or 2 brake applications in the morning, and then again after about 10 minutes of city driving.
What am I doing wrong?!?! My neighbours are going to hate me if my rear brakes keep squealing this bad first thing in the morning.
Of course, this is all in addition to the dreaded front brake squeal when reversing out of my garage. No apparent fix to that...
#35
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
I recently finished up a DIY video for this: 2008-2013 Infiniti G37 Coupe Akebono Big Brake Kit Replacement Procedure Video | Infinitihelp.com
#36
Awesome DIY! I used this and changing my pads was a breeze. I only wish I wasn't dumb enough to buy pads from autozone.....whoops. Maybe i'll give it another go soon with some higher end pads
#38
Hey!
First post wooh, and apologies for necro'ing this thread.
Potentially stupid question but I've never worked on this style of caliper or parking brake before. Do you need the parking brake to be off before doing the rear pads? Can it be done with the parking still on? I was hoping I could get away with putting an axle stand under one corner and working my round the four corners that way.
The reason being there is a slight slope to my drive way and when I've needed to take wheels of previous cars (this is my first G) I've always done one corner and chocked the other three wheels so there is at least some parking brake force on one wheel of the car.
Any help gratefully appreciated!
Gaz
First post wooh, and apologies for necro'ing this thread.
Potentially stupid question but I've never worked on this style of caliper or parking brake before. Do you need the parking brake to be off before doing the rear pads? Can it be done with the parking still on? I was hoping I could get away with putting an axle stand under one corner and working my round the four corners that way.
The reason being there is a slight slope to my drive way and when I've needed to take wheels of previous cars (this is my first G) I've always done one corner and chocked the other three wheels so there is at least some parking brake force on one wheel of the car.
Any help gratefully appreciated!
Gaz
#39
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
Hey!
First post wooh, and apologies for necro'ing this thread.
Potentially stupid question but I've never worked on this style of caliper or parking brake before. Do you need the parking brake to be off before doing the rear pads? Can it be done with the parking still on? I was hoping I could get away with putting an axle stand under one corner and working my round the four corners that way.
The reason being there is a slight slope to my drive way and when I've needed to take wheels of previous cars (this is my first G) I've always done one corner and chocked the other three wheels so there is at least some parking brake force on one wheel of the car.
Any help gratefully appreciated!
Gaz
First post wooh, and apologies for necro'ing this thread.
Potentially stupid question but I've never worked on this style of caliper or parking brake before. Do you need the parking brake to be off before doing the rear pads? Can it be done with the parking still on? I was hoping I could get away with putting an axle stand under one corner and working my round the four corners that way.
The reason being there is a slight slope to my drive way and when I've needed to take wheels of previous cars (this is my first G) I've always done one corner and chocked the other three wheels so there is at least some parking brake force on one wheel of the car.
Any help gratefully appreciated!
Gaz
I would recommend placing the car on jack stands at the factory approved jacking locations. I used to put the stand right on the pinch weld, but if you looks right behind the pinch weld (more towards the inside part of the car) you will see there is a flat piece of metal that gives that area the most reinforcement, this i the best place for the jack stand as you are using the factory lift point and at the same time you will not harm the pinch weld as in my DIY video.
Get on a flat surface, chock the front wheels (from the front), jack up on the diff/pumpkin - the steel part, not the aluminum cover, then place the stands on the places I mentioned and lower down slowly then proceed to work now safely!
Good luck and let us know if you need any further assistance. Remember that one of the most important steps of this job is to retract the caliper pistons in evenly, do not only push on one side as this can damage the caliper bore.
#40
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
Welcome and congrats on your first post! I would recommend having the pbrake off so that you can make sure nothing is binding, but you could also do it with it on if you wanted to - you will still get a very slight rub, it's normal.
I would recommend placing the car on jack stands at the factory approved jacking locations. I used to put the stand right on the pinch weld, but if you looks right behind the pinch weld (more towards the inside part of the car) you will see there is a flat piece of metal that gives that area the most reinforcement, this i the best place for the jack stand as you are using the factory lift point and at the same time you will not harm the pinch weld as in my DIY video.
Get on a flat surface, chock the front wheels (from the front), jack up on the diff/pumpkin - the steel part, not the aluminum cover, then place the stands on the places I mentioned and lower down slowly then proceed to work now safely!
Good luck and let us know if you need any further assistance. Remember that one of the most important steps of this job is to retract the caliper pistons in evenly, do not only push on one side as this can damage the caliper bore.
I would recommend placing the car on jack stands at the factory approved jacking locations. I used to put the stand right on the pinch weld, but if you looks right behind the pinch weld (more towards the inside part of the car) you will see there is a flat piece of metal that gives that area the most reinforcement, this i the best place for the jack stand as you are using the factory lift point and at the same time you will not harm the pinch weld as in my DIY video.
Get on a flat surface, chock the front wheels (from the front), jack up on the diff/pumpkin - the steel part, not the aluminum cover, then place the stands on the places I mentioned and lower down slowly then proceed to work now safely!
Good luck and let us know if you need any further assistance. Remember that one of the most important steps of this job is to retract the caliper pistons in evenly, do not only push on one side as this can damage the caliper bore.
#41
Amazing stuff thanks for the detailed reply bythabay!
EDIT: I have one of these Halfords | Tool Connection Laser Disc Brake Piston Spreader - 5093 to push the pistons back which should do the job I guess?
EDIT: I have one of these Halfords | Tool Connection Laser Disc Brake Piston Spreader - 5093 to push the pistons back which should do the job I guess?
Last edited by Gazmond; 02-06-2015 at 12:30 PM.
#44
Just wanted to say thank you for all the info and help in this thread did my pads today all went well apart from a couple of rounded wheel nuts where it looked like they had been done up super tight by someone before, luckily I had spares.
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