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Black G37 Coupe Detailing difficulty: High detail pictures included.

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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 06:38 PM
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Black G37 Coupe Detailing difficulty: High detail pictures included.

Hello guys,

I may not be really active at posting \ commenting stuff on this website but I have been reading a lot, I don't normally start a thread, search button is awesome. I think this one is case specific so please help me out in this.

I am not a professional detailer but I have been detailed 3 cars that I owned over last 5 years and kept them in shape after that, I have read a lot of posts here and on other forums and I know how to do it right using DA polisher.

I bought my G37 coupe around 4 months ago, since i was confident in my detailing skills, I chose obsidian black (i never owned a black car before).
I started working on my car piece by piece and removed almost all swirl marks from the car. Side panels \ doors \ fenders are perfect.

full detailed pictures can be found here:


My main issue is shown in attached pictures. Pictures here are cropped to show a small section from each main picture. I am also attaching a link to full resolution pictures, If you guys like to download it and analyze them.

roof


roof


Trunk


Trunk (see this dust like thing, I hate it!)


Hood


I have these spots \ marks all over my horizontal planes (trunk, roof and hood). I have corrected most of the swirls but I have no idea how to get rid of these dust link dings. A normal person cannot spot it for some reason, I know how to look for them and I see them everytime i see my car in day light, It annoys me!!!

I tried using 105/205 yellow/orange pad. I tried to concentrate in a very small area briefly, these things just wont move.

I need solution to this problem :/ I love my car, its still the cleaner than 90% of G37 i see on road but i want to fix this.

Please guide me.

Full res pics:







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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 08:21 PM
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Looks like acid rain damage to me, I would take it to a body shop to have it looked at. I would be real careful about buffing it any more, I got a little too agressive on my trunk lid and went thru the clear. By the time I realized it I had damaged the base coat. Needless to say it will be getting a respray in the spring. Good luck and keep us posted
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 09:05 PM
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Black Betty
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1) you are beyond ****
2) the way to correct those imperfections involves wet sanding. You will sacrifice a substantial amount of clear coat for minimal visible improvement.

Sometimes good enough is good enough. I've been through this. It sometimes doesn't end well.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 09:14 PM
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wet sanding and have a new clear coat or something like opticoat over it should work? I dont have a strong heart, i cant wet sand G !!!
I need to know if its worth it, I will have to get some professional help and evaluate the cost. If not, then i will HAVE to trade this car with another one.
this is a deal breaker for me, even though it does look clean if you look at it in a normal way.
I see I can always tell if a car is repainted, I think having mine repainted will drop its value and it will never look the same as original paint?

While I took these defects pictures, I also took full pictures of the rest of the car.
This is how she looks, Isn't she pretty!




Last edited by main_shoby; Dec 11, 2014 at 09:31 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2014 | 10:04 PM
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Rest assured that your car looks perfectly fine, even gorgeous, to the vast majority of people. You even acknowledge that it looks normal.

A car can be resprayed and look better than new by a quality shop. But it's expensive. It does not lower your car's value at all as many people falsely presume. Damage from an accident lowers the value. If the car hasn't been damaged and it is repainted by a top notch shop, it doesn't lower its value and can actually increase it. An older car that hasn't been in a wreck and has much better paint than cars it's age is more valuable, not less.

I've never used Opticoat so I can't comment on that. A good quality shop can color sand it and make it look better than new. I believe there's a thread by someone who did it or had it done with great results somewhere on the forum with photos.

If it bothers you that much and you're dead set against refinishing it, sell it and get another car. Good luck with whatever you decide.

EDIT: https://www.myg37.com/forums/car-car...ding-my-g.html
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 08:34 AM
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I swore off black after my car before the G.
Wetsanding should work on that. If you let a pro do it, they should take off very little of the clear, but the sun WILL get to it over time.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 08:44 AM
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Can't I have a pro-body shop wet sand and apply additional clear coat on my car?
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 02:53 PM
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Just noticed for the first time ever that a coupe's side mirror perch is flat and dull, appears maybe porous, whereas a sedan is nice, shiny and glossy. Hope this doesn't affect your OCD, but it would drive me nuts. I'd get those painted while the body shop wet sands your top surfaces. Not certain that new clear would be needed until a pro does his magic in sanding. I think wet sanding this will correct 99%. Car really does look good, but I can clearly see what you are pointing out. I too have heard of Opticoat but never seen it in person. (I also have OCD, so that wasn't a stab)
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 03:20 PM
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Yes, It is plastic and is very dry!
I owned a 2012 sedan before, it was fully finished on those.
Not sure if its only the case in black coupes.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 05:29 PM
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Are you using a compound polish or just using wax with the DA? Are you using a pre wax cleaner or just rubbing alcohol mixed with water in a spray bottle to wipe the paint between steps in paint correction?

It looks like if you use meguairs 105/205 or something similar you could get rid of those spots.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 05:41 PM
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+1 on Meguiars M105 then followed up with M205 to finish it of M21 its perfect result..
Maybe you might have to try some Color sanding with 3m 5000 grit..Try it on a small spot and then follow by the M105,, Should take some of the stuff out...
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by John B
Are you using a compound polish or just using wax with the DA? Are you using a pre wax cleaner or just rubbing alcohol mixed with water in a spray bottle to wipe the paint between steps in paint correction?

It looks like if you use meguairs 105/205 or something similar you could get rid of those spots.
yes sir, I am using meg's 105/205 with yellow/orange pad combo and using PC DA polisher. I am not using alcohol mix between steps, instead I am using garry dean detail juice detailer.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by main_shoby
yes sir, I am using meg's 105/205 with yellow/orange pad combo and using PC DA polisher. I am not using alcohol mix between steps, instead I alm using garry dean detail juice detailer.
If I'm not mistaken detail juice is not the same as using a cleaner. The purpose of the cleaner is to clear off buildup and fillers which the detail juice is probably helping fill in swirls and such.

Also if the foam pads are not working you may need the meguairs wool pads because the PC may not have enough power to correct those spots if it's acid rain. I would call chemical guys or Autogeek and watch some YouTube videos. I know you can correct with out paying someone else to do it. Good luck!
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 11:38 PM
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That is hard water etching which is super hard to remove. Have you tried a premium compound like Wolfgang 3.0 compound? What steps have you taken to correct your paint? Black cars are a bitch to get perfect. if you bought it used and/or didn't care for it properly at the beginning you may need to get a respray and start over. That's going to run you a solid $3k+ for a quality job. I'd try the recommendations provided and go for 5000 grit to start and see if that eliminates the etching and follow that up with a compound, then polish and then wax/sealant for protection. If that doesn't work try 4000 grit and so on. If you are trying 3000 grit in a small area and that isn't working you would be better served to go the respray route.
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by John B
If I'm not mistaken detail juice is not the same as using a cleaner. The purpose of the cleaner is to clear off buildup and fillers which the detail juice is probably helping fill in swirls and such.

Also if the foam pads are not working you may need the meguairs wool pads because the PC may not have enough power to correct those spots if it's acid rain. I would call chemical guys or Autogeek and watch some YouTube videos. I know you can correct with out paying someone else to do it. Good luck!
Okay, I can get wool pads and give them a shot. for cleaner between steps, I never tried alcohol + water or vinegar before, what do you guys recommend and how it may help me do a better job?
I thought detailer juice should be enough.

Originally Posted by Upscale Speed
That is hard water etching which is super hard to remove. Have you tried a premium compound like Wolfgang 3.0 compound? What steps have you taken to correct your paint? Black cars are a bitch to get perfect. if you bought it used and/or didn't care for it properly at the beginning you may need to get a respray and start over. That's going to run you a solid $3k+ for a quality job. I'd try the recommendations provided and go for 5000 grit to start and see if that eliminates the etching and follow that up with a compound, then polish and then wax/sealant for protection. If that doesn't work try 4000 grit and so on. If you are trying 3000 grit in a small area and that isn't working you would be better served to go the respray route.
I never tried anything other than meguiar's 105/205 on this car. I am sort of not liking 105 on black car because of its white dust issue, very very hard to remove. I still have some area where i can spot 105's dust and I am thinking about moving to something which wont dry out fast and dust as much as 105.

If I go sanding 3000-5000 grit, will I need a wool pad or yellow pad + 105 should be enough? I want to try a small area on roof tomorrow morning.
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