Hello All,

What can I do to prevent my leather from cracking? I clean and condition my seats 3-4x a year with lexol. Yet it is still cracking. Any advice would help, I have also searched and found a few threads, but I do what everyone says. Yet my seats are still cracking, am I doing something wrong that I may not be aware of?

 

I think warranty covers it

 

No. Unless your car is fresh off the lot, it is wear and tear.

 

Creases or Wrinkle’s - similar to a paints clear coat, upholstery urethane is classified as a semi-solid permeable membrane, being a thermosetting polymer (elastomers) it remains flexible while retaining its tensile strength, to enable it to expand and contract, following the temperature fluctuations (elasticity) of the substrate and is therefore subject to show wrinkle’s. These can be lessened by using a damp (microwave heated) towel, which will cause the urethane to contract slightly.

The foam, leather hide and its urethane covering are subjected to compression (the weight applied by people sitting on them) which causes them the stretch, which in turn produces creases (wrinkles). If they become excessive it may mean that the foam is compressed to the point it will no longer ‘rebound’ and should therefore be replaced

Modern automotive leather upholstery use a completely different tanning processes and finishing system, utilizing advanced polymers and chemicals (urethane doesn’t require conditioning or rejuvenation) and as a consequence they do not need to be treated with aftercare products containing oils or proteins.

Oils and soft plastics (polymers, acrylics and urethanes) are not compatible; repeated application on to finished leather can cause the break-down of cross-linking and binding agents. Oil accelerates the deterioration of urethane over time. After extended use the condition of the finished leathers pigmentation (colour) will be removed by the oil causing the urethane protection to become delaminated



“Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html

 

wait lol.. so does that mean I shouldn't do anything to my leather, other than a hot towel?

 

TOGWT great advice!

 

Three Step Leather Care

Unless a Premium Leather option was purchased the type of leather upholstery used by ~ 95% of OEM is a multi stratum covering over the leather hide; the top strata is the surface pigmentation (colour) and an abrasion resistant urethane.

Premium leatherhas a recognizable fragrance that is missing from polyurethane and plastic. Simple cleaning, hydration and protection are the steps that will prolong the life of finished leather.

1. Clean - there are two cleaning-related factors that can cause your leather to wear prematurely. The first is dirt, and the second is oil, combined they become very abrasive, as dirt / grit and subsequent friction cause the finish to wear

2. Hydrate – when leather tanner’s talk about conditioning leather they are referring to its moisture content, re-hydration is used to restore or maintain fluid balance (transpiration and evaporation of moisture); not the replenishment or replacement of the fat liquoring, oils and / or waxes.

3. Protect - is essential as it will protect the surface finish, without hindering transpiration, while acting as a sacrificial layer; this way you are not actually cleaning the Leather's original surface, but cleaning from the surface of the protection. It also makes dirt easier to clean off

Ultra violet (UV) protection - 303® Aerospace Protectant will provide invaluable ultra violet (UV) protection against photo degradation (fading); especially in a roadster or convertible vehicle, steering wheel and dashboards

Urethane doesn’t require conditioning; always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather and not with the leather hide itself


“Proper Finished Leather Cleaning and Care” - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ning-care.html

 

I've been using Meguiar's Gold Class Leather spray for 2-3 times a year since I've had my car in June 2008. I've been lucky to have no cracking or bubbling problems since. **knocks on wood**. My car gets baked under the sun all day since I moved into my condo without shaded parking in 2010.

Now I finally found and bought Lexol a few days ago because I've heard/read nothing but good things about it here. Now I'm hesitant to use that stuff.

 

I use leathermasters cleaner followed by leathermasters conditioner. Keeps the leather in mint condition.

 

I use Griots leather conditioner. It kept my 2003 G35 leather like brand new and smelling like brand new leather Car stayed outside in the Sun in FL for 9 years. I am using it on my G37 and will continue to do that until I sell it.

Great stuff great smell

 

Why would you need to 'condition' polyurethane (which to all intents and purposes is a plastic) covered leather? Urethane doesn’t require conditioning; always keep in mind that you’re dealing with the finished coating on the leather, which applies to 95% of modern vehicles and not with the leather hide itself

 

I wash the seats with soap and water and use a conditioner that the dealer buys from a supplier of auto detail products its worked very good.

I apply the conditioner and let it sit for half hour.

 

I use poorboys leather stuff since I got my G in June 2008 new. My leather still looks new, she is always garage kept n leather gets conditioner every 2 weeks (this method has worked for me) granted I'm the only driver n my G only has 28,715 miles on it so maybe that's why....

 

I use Griots as well...awesome stuff.

 

i use aerospace 303 on all the interior rubbers/plastics, as well as the leather. it works great for me as a protectant. i'm sure there is better stuff out there but my seats look like new - as does the rest of the interior.