Detailing Is the Key to Maximizing the Value of Your Car
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Detailing Is the Key to Maximizing the Value of Your Car
I found this interesting read from Infiniti of Marin newsletter and thought I'd share..
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Detailing Is the Key to Maximizing the Value of Your Car
Your car’s surfaces are the equivalent of your body’s skin. Treat them gently!
Detailing is one of the least understood, but most valuable services your vehicle requires. Since your car or truck is a significant investment, it deserves to be taken seriously. Washing the exterior, wiping down the interior and vacuuming the carpets is basic care. Those are the easy things. Detailing involves the real work of addressing wear and tear over time – the things that lead to nasty stuff like rust, oxidation, mold, chips, cracks and plain old neglect.
The importance and value of professional detailing is frequently discounted because it seems so “trivial.” We believe it’s detailing when all we are doing is washing, cleaning and perhaps waxing. Even then, most of us are doing those basic things incorrectly!
Take washing, for instance. Chances are you are not doing it effectively. Typically, carmakers advise the following: “Wash your vehicle frequently. Rinse the vehicle with clear cold water and do not wash your vehicle with hot water. Do not use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, fuel or strong detergent as these can damage your vehicle’s protective coating and paint.” A professional detailer hand washes your car with de-ionized, chlorine and mineral-free water using specialized tools to remove salt, dirt, grime, bug remains, sap and all other damaging surface deposits properly including on the underbody and wheels. A thorough washing is the first step in detailing.
In addition to a sponge and cloth, a professional detailer will use a special clay bar to remove surface deposits and contamination. Claying does not remove the clearcoat of the paint, but can cause marring or dullness if used incorrectly. It takes a few passes of clay to feel the difference on the surface of the paint. Claying does not replace polishing. It is simply a process that should be used before polishing compound is used. Claying should be used once or twice a year depending on the year of the car or truck.
While washing your vehicle, the detailer will make note of surface damage – chips, cracks and scratches – that will be repaired and renewed later. The same goes for the glass surfaces of the vehicle. The steps of a basic exterior detail of the paint surface consist of, in this order, wash, dry, clay bar, fill and touchup paint, wash again, polish, glaze, sealant, wax. Application of a glaze is optional as is application of both a sealant and wax.
Polishing is another task that we “amateurs” rarely do properly. The purpose of polishing is to remove oxidation, swirls, scratches, water deposits and other imperfections from the paint. In contrast to a clay bar, which removes surface contamination, polishes remove surface imperfections. Polishing generally is the single most time consuming step in an exterior detail.
Polishes typically are classified in two categories – chemical polish or abrasive polish. A chemical polish, sometimes called a pre-wax cleaner, cleans the surface and removes oxidation. An abrasive polish removes a small portion of the clearcoat or, on single-stage paint, the base paint itself. Abrasive polishes are classified based on how abrasive they are. The most abrasive polish typically is called a rubbing compound. A rubbing compound will remove heavier scratches and swirls, as well as oxidation. It can be compared to very fine sandpaper. The least abrasive polish typically is called a finishing polish. A finishing polish is used to remove light oxidation and fine scratches and swirls. It is also used to remove the haze resulting from application of a more abrasive polish. Abrasive polishes are generally applied with a rotary buffer or random orbital buffer. Different pads are used on the buffer depending on the abrasion level of the polish. Try doing this yourself and odds are you’ll end up with prominent swirl marks.
A polished surface still lacks the protection needed to resist the ravages of weather and the road. Most of us would assume the protection comes in the form of wax. Wrong! Seal first, wax later!
Synthetic sealants provide more durability than even the best carnauba wax. They go on very much like a liquid wax and cure for 12 to 24 hours before additional coats are layered on. Waxing further enhances the gloss and depth of the paint and provides even more, but shorter lasting protection. Wax comes in many forms such as cream, paste and liquid, and contains synthetic content or carnauba wax, a substance that forms a solid layer between the paint and the atmosphere. Your professional detailer will no doubt ask about the type of shine you prefer. Synthetic waxes create a high gloss while carnauba waxes give a warm and wet looking finish.
Today’s high-solid clearcoat finishes are the result of laws created by the EPA in 1983 regulating paint solvents and emissions. The new paint systems are actually softer and less durable than the low-solid single-stage finishes applied years ago. A wax or sealant acts as a sacrificial layer of protection for the vulnerable finish of your vehicle. You do not want to neglect your vehicle's finish. Not having it treated regularly will result in the paint fading, blemishes and other problems that will end up costing you more money to have repaired than the cost of having your vehicle detailed regularly.
For a “daily driver,” professional detailers recommend applying wax every three to six months. More frequent waxing is needed if your car is red, black or white as these colors are more susceptible to acid rain and ultraviolet (UV) rays.
When it comes to selling your vehicle, you never get a second chance to make a great first impression. The most important thing is to clean the vehicle inside and out. A clean, shiny vehicle gives the impression that you cared about the vehicle and maintained its condition. This may also increase your vehicle's sale price significantly.
Link
Detailing Is the Key to Maximizing the Value of Your Car
Your car’s surfaces are the equivalent of your body’s skin. Treat them gently!
Detailing is one of the least understood, but most valuable services your vehicle requires. Since your car or truck is a significant investment, it deserves to be taken seriously. Washing the exterior, wiping down the interior and vacuuming the carpets is basic care. Those are the easy things. Detailing involves the real work of addressing wear and tear over time – the things that lead to nasty stuff like rust, oxidation, mold, chips, cracks and plain old neglect.
The importance and value of professional detailing is frequently discounted because it seems so “trivial.” We believe it’s detailing when all we are doing is washing, cleaning and perhaps waxing. Even then, most of us are doing those basic things incorrectly!
Take washing, for instance. Chances are you are not doing it effectively. Typically, carmakers advise the following: “Wash your vehicle frequently. Rinse the vehicle with clear cold water and do not wash your vehicle with hot water. Do not use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, fuel or strong detergent as these can damage your vehicle’s protective coating and paint.” A professional detailer hand washes your car with de-ionized, chlorine and mineral-free water using specialized tools to remove salt, dirt, grime, bug remains, sap and all other damaging surface deposits properly including on the underbody and wheels. A thorough washing is the first step in detailing.
In addition to a sponge and cloth, a professional detailer will use a special clay bar to remove surface deposits and contamination. Claying does not remove the clearcoat of the paint, but can cause marring or dullness if used incorrectly. It takes a few passes of clay to feel the difference on the surface of the paint. Claying does not replace polishing. It is simply a process that should be used before polishing compound is used. Claying should be used once or twice a year depending on the year of the car or truck.
While washing your vehicle, the detailer will make note of surface damage – chips, cracks and scratches – that will be repaired and renewed later. The same goes for the glass surfaces of the vehicle. The steps of a basic exterior detail of the paint surface consist of, in this order, wash, dry, clay bar, fill and touchup paint, wash again, polish, glaze, sealant, wax. Application of a glaze is optional as is application of both a sealant and wax.
Polishing is another task that we “amateurs” rarely do properly. The purpose of polishing is to remove oxidation, swirls, scratches, water deposits and other imperfections from the paint. In contrast to a clay bar, which removes surface contamination, polishes remove surface imperfections. Polishing generally is the single most time consuming step in an exterior detail.
Polishes typically are classified in two categories – chemical polish or abrasive polish. A chemical polish, sometimes called a pre-wax cleaner, cleans the surface and removes oxidation. An abrasive polish removes a small portion of the clearcoat or, on single-stage paint, the base paint itself. Abrasive polishes are classified based on how abrasive they are. The most abrasive polish typically is called a rubbing compound. A rubbing compound will remove heavier scratches and swirls, as well as oxidation. It can be compared to very fine sandpaper. The least abrasive polish typically is called a finishing polish. A finishing polish is used to remove light oxidation and fine scratches and swirls. It is also used to remove the haze resulting from application of a more abrasive polish. Abrasive polishes are generally applied with a rotary buffer or random orbital buffer. Different pads are used on the buffer depending on the abrasion level of the polish. Try doing this yourself and odds are you’ll end up with prominent swirl marks.
A polished surface still lacks the protection needed to resist the ravages of weather and the road. Most of us would assume the protection comes in the form of wax. Wrong! Seal first, wax later!
Synthetic sealants provide more durability than even the best carnauba wax. They go on very much like a liquid wax and cure for 12 to 24 hours before additional coats are layered on. Waxing further enhances the gloss and depth of the paint and provides even more, but shorter lasting protection. Wax comes in many forms such as cream, paste and liquid, and contains synthetic content or carnauba wax, a substance that forms a solid layer between the paint and the atmosphere. Your professional detailer will no doubt ask about the type of shine you prefer. Synthetic waxes create a high gloss while carnauba waxes give a warm and wet looking finish.
Today’s high-solid clearcoat finishes are the result of laws created by the EPA in 1983 regulating paint solvents and emissions. The new paint systems are actually softer and less durable than the low-solid single-stage finishes applied years ago. A wax or sealant acts as a sacrificial layer of protection for the vulnerable finish of your vehicle. You do not want to neglect your vehicle's finish. Not having it treated regularly will result in the paint fading, blemishes and other problems that will end up costing you more money to have repaired than the cost of having your vehicle detailed regularly.
For a “daily driver,” professional detailers recommend applying wax every three to six months. More frequent waxing is needed if your car is red, black or white as these colors are more susceptible to acid rain and ultraviolet (UV) rays.
When it comes to selling your vehicle, you never get a second chance to make a great first impression. The most important thing is to clean the vehicle inside and out. A clean, shiny vehicle gives the impression that you cared about the vehicle and maintained its condition. This may also increase your vehicle's sale price significantly.
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From: Rothesay, New Brunswick, Canada
Great article, thanks for posting it. I 100% agree that detailing is definitely one of the keys to maximizing the value of your vehicle. The only thing in the article that I didn't agree with is when they mentioned the use of a sponge to wash your vehicle. A sponge????? Yikes!! 
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For a “daily driver,” professional detailers recommend applying wax every three to six months. More frequent waxing is needed if your car is red, black or white as these colors are more susceptible to acid rain and ultraviolet (UV) rays.
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 256
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From: London, UK / Ponte Vedra Beach, FL
To see just how much the condition of your vehicle affects its valuation and its resale value we examined some figures from Kelly’s Blue Book and Glass's Guide. The only variable that changed for each vehicle was its condition, rated fair or excellent, with a scale of poor, fair, good or excellent. This clearly shows the significant differences in the value of maintaining your vehicle. The average difference was over three thousand dollars or 16% more when comparing the value from fair to excellent. A vehicle maintenace log showing that all recommenended services have been carried out is also an invaluable selling point. These figures do not solely reflect the added value of detailing, but clearly it's a large component of the equation.
Here's how Kelly Blue Book defines used car condition:
Excellent (less than 5% of all used cars fall into this category)
•Looks new, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning.
•Never had any paint or body work and is free of rust.
•Clean title history and will pass a smog and safety inspection.
•Engine compartment is clean, with no fluid leaks and is free of any wear or visible defects.
•Complete and verifiable service records.
Good (most consumer owned vehicles fall into this category)
•Free of any major defects.
•Clean title history, the paints, body, and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems.
•Little or no rust on this vehicle
•Tires match and have substantial tread wear left.
•A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning (detailing) to be sold at retail.
Fair
•Some mechanical or cosmetic defects and needs servicing but is still in reasonable running condition.
•Clean title history, the paint, body and/or interior need work performed by a professional.
•Tires may need to be replaced.
•There may be some repairable rust damage.
Poor
•Severe mechanical and/or cosmetic defects and is in poor running condition.
•May have problems that cannot be readily fixed such as a damaged frame or a rusted-through body
•Branded title (salvage, flood, etc.) or unsubstantiated mileage
Here's how Kelly Blue Book defines used car condition:
Excellent (less than 5% of all used cars fall into this category)
•Looks new, is in excellent mechanical condition and needs no reconditioning.
•Never had any paint or body work and is free of rust.
•Clean title history and will pass a smog and safety inspection.
•Engine compartment is clean, with no fluid leaks and is free of any wear or visible defects.
•Complete and verifiable service records.
Good (most consumer owned vehicles fall into this category)
•Free of any major defects.
•Clean title history, the paints, body, and interior have only minor (if any) blemishes, and there are no major mechanical problems.
•Little or no rust on this vehicle
•Tires match and have substantial tread wear left.
•A "good" vehicle will need some reconditioning (detailing) to be sold at retail.
Fair
•Some mechanical or cosmetic defects and needs servicing but is still in reasonable running condition.
•Clean title history, the paint, body and/or interior need work performed by a professional.
•Tires may need to be replaced.
•There may be some repairable rust damage.
Poor
•Severe mechanical and/or cosmetic defects and is in poor running condition.
•May have problems that cannot be readily fixed such as a damaged frame or a rusted-through body
•Branded title (salvage, flood, etc.) or unsubstantiated mileage
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