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I have to do some more research about camber/toe adjustment because I have little to no knowledge on that subject. Would I get the rear bolt kit installed and then get everything adjusted when I get an alignment? Would it be wise to purchase the Swift springs, rear bolt kit, and hotchkis all together? Appreciate your input, blnewt.
The rear bolt is for toe adjustment that you need because of the drop, but can't get to with the OEM part. The bolt hole on the frame of the car is elongated to support adjustment, and the bolt is longer. Toe is a more critical component than camber to an alignment. It represents how level the wheel is parallel to straight-line direction. If toe is out of alignment, the wheel will wobble, whether you can see it or not. In any event, it will destroy your tires.
Camber represents tilt on the wheel. A little bit of negative camber helps the handling of the car, by increasing the size of the contact patch that results from body-roll in a turn. Another use of negative camber is to tuck the top of your wheel towards the car, which is a technique people use for aesthetic considerations while chasing a flush fitment. Too much negative camber, and you'll rip up the inside edges of your tires. Go look at any of the cars on http://www.stancenation.com. These people have money to burn on tires and destroyed suspensions, and value an exaggerated approach to proper fitment. Personally, I don't get it and think it looks asinine... but it's a hobby for these people.
Originally Posted by ZahyMatar
I just figured if I'm gonna be messing with my brakes, I might as well go all out. It's going to be a gift to myself after my next deployment. I'm in no rush to do it.
I think you should gift yourself some high performance summer tires before blowing big money on vanity brakes.
The rear bolt is for toe adjustment that you need because of the drop, but can't get to with the OEM part. The bolt hole on the frame of the car is elongated to support adjustment, and the bolt is longer. Toe is a more critical component than camber to an alignment. It represents how level the wheel is parallel to straight-line direction. If toe is out of alignment, the wheel will wobble, whether you can see it or not. In any event, it will destroy your tires.
That's the full kit if you want to elongate your camber bolt slot & your toe bolt slot. It requires using a dremel tool to widen the slots. Sometimes you can get your toe in spec & still retain reasonable camber if you just use the toe bolt kit (only 2 bolts total, not 4). But having the camber bolts to fine tune your alignment is a plus.
Here's the install info. https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
That's the full kit if you want to elongate your camber bolt slot & your toe bolt slot. It requires using a dremel tool to widen the slots. Sometimes you can get your toe in spec & still retain reasonable camber if you just use the toe bolt kit (only 2 bolts total, not 4). But having the camber bolts to fine tune your alignment is a plus.
Here's the install info. https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
If that's the only kit I need, then I'll just get that. Now to see if my friend who's helping me install my Swifts and swaybars is proficient with a dremel. If not, I'll just take it to a shop.
If that's the only kit I need, then I'll just get that. Now to see if my friend who's helping me install my Swifts and swaybars is proficient with a dremel. If not, I'll just take it to a shop.
I found it very easy using these small cutoff wafer/wheels, this allows you to keep the dremel tool perpendicular to the control arm so you can easily see what you're doing and you won't need the flexible extension. Just get some scrap metal to wear down the initial cutting disc a bit so it's smaller and easier to get into the smaller OEM slot, then once you get it a bit wider you can use the full size wheels, get about 10 wheels, they're cheap and it's best to have a couple extra. Just take your time and it's a piece of cake. And if you look at the template, you ONLY need to cut one side of the template, the side facing the center of the car, this is the side the new bolts will slide out to. If you cut the outter side of the slot it's the side that increases toe & camber and you won't be needing to do that. This makes the cutting even easier.
With toe correction available, the alignment Tech will probably be able to match rear camber on each side. And with the mild drop, I suspect the AWD G on matching AWD Swift Springs will be somewhere between -1.5 to -2.0, which is entirely fine. It will wear well, and look good, IMO.
The other plus about Swift Springs on the AWD is that the floor-2-fender measurements are similar front to back, whereas the RWD G and matching RWD Swift Springs retain that droopy rear, stock configuration.
Believe me, once you drop your car and tuck those wheels flush with the fender, you're going to absolutely love the way it looks, and you'll no longer feel like a complete idiot using words like drop, tuck and flush.
Believe me, once you drop your car and tuck those wheels flush with the fender, you're going to absolutely love the way it looks, and you'll no longer feel like a complete idiot using words like drop, tuck and flush.
With toe correction available, the alignment Tech will probably be able to match rear camber on each side. And with the mild drop, I suspect the AWD G on matching AWD Swift Springs will be somewhere between -1.5 to -2.0, which is entirely fine. It will wear well, and look good, IMO.
The other plus about Swift Springs on the AWD is that the floor-2-fender measurements are similar front to back, whereas the RWD G and matching RWD Swift Springs retain that droopy rear, stock configuration.
Believe me, once you drop your car and tuck those wheels flush with the fender, you're going to absolutely love the way it looks, and you'll no longer feel like a complete idiot using words like drop, tuck and flush.
I noticed that AWD Gs on Swift springs have a "raked" stance which I think looks great. I'm sooo excited to lower my car. Haha
So I decided to go with the Tanabe exhaust for my sedan after nearly a two month wait for the TopSpeed Pro. I think I'll be happy with the Tanabe by itself for the next few months until I pair it up with some HFC. Exhaust should be here the beginning of February.
So I decided to go with the Tanabe exhaust for my sedan after nearly a two month wait for the TopSpeed Pro. I think I'll be happy with the Tanabe by itself for the next few months until I pair it up with some HFC. Exhaust should be here the beginning of February.
Should be a good choice, and w/ that HFC combo it should work out well.
Too bad you were constantly lead down a dead end w/ the TS.
Should be a good choice, and w/ that HFC combo it should work out well.
Too bad you were constantly lead down a dead end w/ the TS.
I got quoted less than $1,200 for AWD Swift Springs, Hotchkis F&R sway bars and Berks HFC with free shipping which actually sounds like a great deal. So for a little over $1,700, I'll have a great sounding exhaust and a better handling car.
With the help of my friends, I got my Tanabe exhaust and sway bars installed along with an oil change. Took us around 3 hours to do everything, having air tools helped a lot with removing the end links. But other than that, everything went smoothly. The Tanabe looks great and I definitely notice a difference. It's very subtle and should become more prominent once it's broken in. Can't wait to try the sway bars out.
01-17-2016, 06:27 AM
Took us around 3 hours to do everything, having air tools helped a lot with removing the end links. But other than that, everything went smoothly. The Tanabe looks great and I definitely notice a difference. It's very subtle and should become more prominent once it's broken in. Can't wait to try the sway bars out. 
