Neomist build
07-11-2014, 10:49 PM
#1
Neomist build
Okay so i am starting this because i want all the feedback (pos & neg) on my build. So for starters i just purchased new 2013 g37. Last month i removed the stock 17s and purchased a new set of staggered 19' IPLs with michelin as/3, which i love. I will post pics soon. I installed the gen3 stillen intake two weeks ago but have to remove it because of a defect in the passenger piping. Still waiting on a replace passenger pipe to reinstall.
Today i just received my kwv1 coilovers, hotchics sway set, spc front and rear camber kits, and stainless steel brake lines. Next week i should have my 14inch drill/slotted rotors and wilwood front and rear kit powder coated red BBK. Mid august my FI HfC systems should be shipped. Once i get started on installing ill try to take as many pics as possible. I may need some help getting the coilovers set properly. More to follow!!!
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Today i just received my kwv1 coilovers, hotchics sway set, spc front and rear camber kits, and stainless steel brake lines. Next week i should have my 14inch drill/slotted rotors and wilwood front and rear kit powder coated red BBK. Mid august my FI HfC systems should be shipped. Once i get started on installing ill try to take as many pics as possible. I may need some help getting the coilovers set properly. More to follow!!!
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]
Last edited by Neomist; 07-13-2014 at 12:42 PM. Reason: Grammer
07-12-2014, 12:02 AM
#2
Okay so i am starting this because i want all the feedback (pos & neg) on my build. So for starters i just purchased new 2013 g37. Last month i removed the stock 17s and purchased a new set of staggered 19' IPLs with michelin as/3, which i love. I will post pics soon. I installed the gen3 stillen intake two weeks ago but have to remove it because of a defect in the passenger piping. Still waiting on a replace passenger pipe to reinstall.
Today i just received my kwv1 coilovers, hotchics sway set, spc front and rear camber kits, and stainless steel brake lines. Next week i should have my 14inch drill/slotted rotors and wilwood front and rear kit powder coated red BBK. Mid august my FI HfC systems should be shipped. Once i get started on installing ill try to take as many pics as possible. I may need some help getting the coilovers set properly. More to follow!!!
Today i just received my kwv1 coilovers, hotchics sway set, spc front and rear camber kits, and stainless steel brake lines. Next week i should have my 14inch drill/slotted rotors and wilwood front and rear kit powder coated red BBK. Mid august my FI HfC systems should be shipped. Once i get started on installing ill try to take as many pics as possible. I may need some help getting the coilovers set properly. More to follow!!!
Keep us posted!
08-03-2014, 05:34 PM
#5
Guys, I will be installing the Wilwood BBK this weekend. I researched most of the posts I could find on it, but most seem to dedicated to upgrading non-sport to akebono or the older brembos. These post were pretty informative but...:
Install Akebono Big Brake Kit on 370z or 350z
I am switching to a completely new brake system. And while I'm in there I'm going to switch over to the KW coilovers. So my questions are:
1. If I am removing my entire brake system minus the master cylinder is the power bleeder really necessary? I've seen countless videos on folks just filling the master cylinder then attaching a bleeder hose to each caliper and pumping the brakes. (but again they are just flushing new fluid not replacing their calipers)
2. Is it reasonable to just completely disconnect all the calipers let them drain over night (or pumping the brakes) then remove them (which I know will introduce air into the lines) then bleed them with all new Motul 600 once I get the wildwood installed? either by the power bleeder or pumping the brake?
3. How many .500ml of Motul 600 are necessary? Some say 1, some say two others say 4???
3. Is anyone aware of any special hardware i.e. longer, short banjo bolts? If I have to order anything thing I want to do it tomorrow so Saturday and Sunday I don't have any hiccups.
Once I get some time this week I will start assembling the rotors and calipers. I try to get as many pictures as possible.
Any help will be appreciated.
Justin
Install Akebono Big Brake Kit on 370z or 350z
I am switching to a completely new brake system. And while I'm in there I'm going to switch over to the KW coilovers. So my questions are:
1. If I am removing my entire brake system minus the master cylinder is the power bleeder really necessary? I've seen countless videos on folks just filling the master cylinder then attaching a bleeder hose to each caliper and pumping the brakes. (but again they are just flushing new fluid not replacing their calipers)
2. Is it reasonable to just completely disconnect all the calipers let them drain over night (or pumping the brakes) then remove them (which I know will introduce air into the lines) then bleed them with all new Motul 600 once I get the wildwood installed? either by the power bleeder or pumping the brake?
3. How many .500ml of Motul 600 are necessary? Some say 1, some say two others say 4???
3. Is anyone aware of any special hardware i.e. longer, short banjo bolts? If I have to order anything thing I want to do it tomorrow so Saturday and Sunday I don't have any hiccups.
Once I get some time this week I will start assembling the rotors and calipers. I try to get as many pictures as possible.
Any help will be appreciated.
Justin
08-03-2014, 07:57 PM
#6
I went through 2 liters of fluid when I did the akebono upgrade. I would get a little more in case of mistakes and leaks.
I wouldn't empty out your brake fluid, I would change one caliper at a time starting with the rears (farthest from the master cylinder). Install the new caliper and bleed it until the air bubble are gone and you see the new fluid coming out. After doing all four your system should be flushed of the old fluid.
Also power bleeders will make your work easier but not necessary.
I wouldn't empty out your brake fluid, I would change one caliper at a time starting with the rears (farthest from the master cylinder). Install the new caliper and bleed it until the air bubble are gone and you see the new fluid coming out. After doing all four your system should be flushed of the old fluid.
Also power bleeders will make your work easier but not necessary.
08-03-2014, 09:16 PM
#7
Hopefully you have all the Wilwood install instructions, if not here's the 6 pot front instructions
http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds763.pdf
Here's another 370Z install pdf from Wilwood site
http://www.wilwood.com/pdf/howtostor...ke_Install.pdf
And a list of videos for various topics that may be of interest (2 or 3 pgs.)
http://www.wilwood.com/Video/VideoHowTo.aspx
As far as bleeding the brakes, conventional wisdom states going from the furtherest caliper and work your way in but the ABS system in Nissan has a different sequence, this is from the Inifiniti FSB passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...sport-g37.html
I went through about 24oz of Dot4 w/ my standard brakes. Should be about the same amount since it's piston area should be similar. You can surely do it old school w/ a helper.
As far as banjo bolts, you won't be using them w/ Wilwoods, you'll be using the designated SS lines that come w/ your kit. These should be the F&R lines you have
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Flexline No: 220-11590
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Flexline No: 220-9197
http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/DataSheets/ds763.pdf
Here's another 370Z install pdf from Wilwood site
http://www.wilwood.com/pdf/howtostor...ke_Install.pdf
And a list of videos for various topics that may be of interest (2 or 3 pgs.)
http://www.wilwood.com/Video/VideoHowTo.aspx
As far as bleeding the brakes, conventional wisdom states going from the furtherest caliper and work your way in but the ABS system in Nissan has a different sequence, this is from the Inifiniti FSB passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...sport-g37.html
I went through about 24oz of Dot4 w/ my standard brakes. Should be about the same amount since it's piston area should be similar. You can surely do it old school w/ a helper.
As far as banjo bolts, you won't be using them w/ Wilwoods, you'll be using the designated SS lines that come w/ your kit. These should be the F&R lines you have
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Flexline No: 220-11590
Wilwood High-Performance Disc Brakes - Flexline No: 220-9197
Trending Topics
08-03-2014, 10:40 PM
#8
I guess I was just concern with not having an oh sh*t moment once the car is in the air. I am hoping the coilovers are too much of a PITA get install either. I'll post some pics as soon I as I can.
08-10-2014, 08:36 PM
#12
Thanks Kuro!
Well I finished up today with the rear done and the driverside front caliper mounted. Man it was a slow day. Here is where I ended. All the suspension work, minus the alignment is complete.
Lessons learned today:
1. Read the instructions slowly
2. Refer to 1.
3. Make sure you have either a deep well 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 inch drive 12 point 7/16 socket. I drove all over town and apparently they are not that popular. I ended up having to use a standard 1/2 inch drive 7/16 12 point because I could find a 3/8 deep well. These are needed for mounting the front and rear calipers to the bracket.
4. Make sure you torque to the right specs. When I assemble the first rotor and rotor head I twisted off the first screw. It was spec for 140 in/lbs and I accidentally set my digital torque wrench to 140 ft/lbs. It prob broke at 60 ft/lbs. What a rookie mistake. I was pissed needless to say.
I had some issues with the stoptech ss lines. The rear went on find, but when I went bleed the passenger rear I couldn't get the banjo bolt in the caliper to stop leaking (it wasn't bad, a couple drops every 10 secs). Stoptech spec was 14 ft/lbs for the rear banjo bolt.
Questions/help:
1. Does anyone know what maybe causing this leak?
2. When installing the driver side front caliper the banjo bolt didn't seem to want to go into the caliper. I was unable to hand tighten pass a 1/2-3/4 of a turn. I was told that the stoptech ss lines would work the wilwood calipers. I using stoptech's ss line part number 950.42012. Any suggestions? here's a pic.
I'm going to call the vendor I purchased from in the morning.
Any help would be appreciated!
Well I finished up today with the rear done and the driverside front caliper mounted. Man it was a slow day. Here is where I ended. All the suspension work, minus the alignment is complete.
Lessons learned today:
1. Read the instructions slowly
2. Refer to 1.
3. Make sure you have either a deep well 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2 inch drive 12 point 7/16 socket. I drove all over town and apparently they are not that popular. I ended up having to use a standard 1/2 inch drive 7/16 12 point because I could find a 3/8 deep well. These are needed for mounting the front and rear calipers to the bracket.
4. Make sure you torque to the right specs. When I assemble the first rotor and rotor head I twisted off the first screw. It was spec for 140 in/lbs and I accidentally set my digital torque wrench to 140 ft/lbs. It prob broke at 60 ft/lbs. What a rookie mistake. I was pissed needless to say.
I had some issues with the stoptech ss lines. The rear went on find, but when I went bleed the passenger rear I couldn't get the banjo bolt in the caliper to stop leaking (it wasn't bad, a couple drops every 10 secs). Stoptech spec was 14 ft/lbs for the rear banjo bolt.
Questions/help:
1. Does anyone know what maybe causing this leak?
2. When installing the driver side front caliper the banjo bolt didn't seem to want to go into the caliper. I was unable to hand tighten pass a 1/2-3/4 of a turn. I was told that the stoptech ss lines would work the wilwood calipers. I using stoptech's ss line part number 950.42012. Any suggestions? here's a pic.
I'm going to call the vendor I purchased from in the morning.
Any help would be appreciated!
08-10-2014, 08:54 PM
#13
Hmmm, shouldn't have banjo bolts going into the caliper, this is the line and fittings you should have'
Front lines
http://www.wilwood.com/LineKits/Line...emno=220-11590
Rear lines
http://www.wilwood.com/LineKits/Line...temno=220-9197
Sure hope you didn't cross up your caliper threads.
Looking nice so far, best of luck.
Here's a Wilwood install video for the 370z, just click the window in teh bottom right corner for the 370z it shows a bit of the line install, no banjo bolts just the chassis coupler and the angled fitting that goes into your caliper.
http://www.wilwood.com/Video/VideoDisplay.aspx
Front lines
http://www.wilwood.com/LineKits/Line...emno=220-11590
Rear lines
http://www.wilwood.com/LineKits/Line...temno=220-9197
Sure hope you didn't cross up your caliper threads.
Looking nice so far, best of luck.
Here's a Wilwood install video for the 370z, just click the window in teh bottom right corner for the 370z it shows a bit of the line install, no banjo bolts just the chassis coupler and the angled fitting that goes into your caliper.
http://www.wilwood.com/Video/VideoDisplay.aspx
Last edited by blnewt; 08-10-2014 at 09:04 PM.
08-10-2014, 09:27 PM
#15
So stoptech ss lines picture at the beginning of this thread are the wrong ones? I am starting to get slightly worried now. And your right... I hope I didn't strip my threads in the rear calipers. Hopefully the vendor will call me first thing. I sent a PM. 
