Thanks for the reply Coop! Such a shame that you never made it into the 10's on the strip. A tiny improvement in traction during your launch would have gotten you there!

I don't intend to try to follow your lead (I'm not a drag strip kinda guy) but I do want to figure out the best way to make the power in the first 2 gears more useable on the street :P

When you say 'splay out' do you mean in regards to toe angle? I'm not 100% sure that I understand caster exactly but I don't think that it affects traction in a straight line. I understand that caster adjust can help to get the camber as close to zero as possible but not sure how it can be used for further improvement if the camber is already setup nicely. I'm happy to be educated on that point though.

Getting the rear toe as neutral as possible and the rear camber as close to zero as possible will definitely help. From there I think that its a matter of getting the centre of gravity shifting towards the rear wheels as quickly as possible. Hence hard springs and dampers at the front with softer springs and dampers to the rear. Then stiffer sways to the front and softer to the back.

(I think tha I'll start a new thread about this and stop making you relive your drag strip dream!)

Hopefully you can recoop ('recoop' get it! :P) some of what you invested to put towards your next build. If shipping costs weren't ridiculous then I'd seriously consider taking the tranmission off your hands....i would have liked the diff too....damn lack of G37's here in Aus!!

If the 5A/T is still in one piece you might be able to sell it to the guy that bought your TT kit. Not a hard sell really seeing as the stock trans is definitiely on of the weakest points when pushing big HP and especially big TQ.

 

Good points. Clarification: I don't know the correct terms for wheel angles. My rear sway adjuster only adjusted toe-in, and naturally that needs to be neutal.

Your wish for the car to squat in the back is what would be best and does happen. However, in doing so, the two rear wheels 'bend' outward at the bottom while it's under the most traction need. So, the car loses some friction area on the outside third of the tread. From what I could determine, there was no easily adjustable method to change that.

I originally thought (silly me) that the links I did install would be able to adjust two or three threads at the strip and the car would look bowlegged standing still. But when the power and weight shifted it would lay the tires FLAT. That link actually didn't have any effect for that parameter.

I'm putting around with a nice grin on my face with my Mini Cooper Clubman. However, it's a nice EDC, and provides my escape from my omnipresent Silver Chrysler T&C minivan. (You have a child? You OWN a minivan or an SUV. LOL!)

Seriously considering a Ford Mustang SVT in my next iteration of performance. It appears, dollar for dollar, you can get maximum bang for the buck. Of course you and every other NINE SECOND STREET Mustangs. This platform will not allow me to stand tall in that crowd (I like having had the World's Quickest G37)

By every measure quickest at the track is the auto trans.

I'm not done with this board yet.

 

I want to be in the fastest G37 competition!

 

You think you're ready??

 

Still need a year. But SOON!

 

< 11.13" = it's there for the doing. Even the lighter 370Z hasn't gotten there yet.

I'll be the FIRST to congratulate anyone.

Gentlemen, START your engines!

Coop

 

Props to you sir, it goes to show what a proper build can do.
Plus you know your sh?t, you have a very mean g.

 

Wow. I don't know where to start.

I've been reviewing this thread for a good 2 weeks now. slowly reading it, researching, outside the thread, finding that at first all seems good, push the envelope and i found out on pg 29 I'd just like to thank you for documenting all this, extremely informative and helpful. Really set me straight in terms of expectations, costs, power, time down, future mods etc.

Did you ever find the culprit of your blown engine? You threw in rods and pistons prior correct? Is the Engine management software to blame? assuming knock, lean conditions and then it was shot? What compression were you running? Did you monitor your wideband A/F?

 

Been a while since I visited this thread.

NeoNz: It wasn't a tune-related or even heat related failure above the piston. It was an oil failure at the rod. I lost one rod bearing and crank journal. The block is in my garage still to be finished disassembling. All of this was done correctly before, but the OEM G37 pump wasn't capable of keeping up with my 8500 shift point. I should have installed a NISMO pump. That is all.

New news: I have enjoyed runnning around with my Mini Cooper for almost a year. The car is fun and I added a few items to give it some speed...

...but speed isn't authority, and I simply have wanted that.

This week, I took delivery of this:



Right now it's a base. I'll do the requisite AED tune, Air Raid intake, X-pipe, and GT500 muffler swap. That will get me through 2014. Then we consider a blower for 2015...

The car reminds me of the G37 to drive. It's got great road feel and sound, and has a similar cockpit. I'm in heaven.

I still enjoy reading this forum, as the people are cool, and I still enjoy seeing what is going on. Thanks.

Coop

 

Hey guys. I"ve been away on my new journey with my 'Stang. It's quite the car.

I couldn't resist what the G37 felt like. Twin turbos are SO deceptively potent.



Tens. With ease. Lots of them.


Coop

 

Wow Jim, welcome back, what output are you putting out w/ that Stang build?
Very nice!

 

Always good to have you back here sir! More details on the Mustang build please.

 

Nice Coop! Your new 'Stang is Black Betty approved. Looks like a fun car.

 

Hi Friends: Nice to see familiar faces.

I've posted the above in the SVT Ford Time slip forum: Crickets. 10.7's are mediocre.... LOL!

I went 11.96 once as N/A with an airbox, Xpipe, hi-flow cats, Circle D torque converter, and a tune. Too docile....

Swapped the higher flash TC for a larger diameter lower rpm one Circle D (turbo WANTS load). Installed this kit on my own over the course of two weeks at The Shop CT (After two previous High$ builds my buddy allowed me to work on it on my own.)

It made 530whp at 6400. I'm shifting at around 7200. The car can only hold the auto in third, and it's so much torque it was spinning the tires. (Needs fourth, but we can't select that on the 2011-2012.)

Incredible strength on the 'coyote' motor and the 6R80 Ford transmission. Guys are going into the EIGHTS and 800+whp without doing a long block and only a TC. It's recommended to do pistons, rods, etc. But it's been done.

Same as with my Auto in the G37, the tuning is wonky and complex for this. If you watch the vid above, listen to it go soft in third. Even more line pressure? Something. It did this as N/A too.

I've also learned the wheel stud spacing is the same (4.5") on my Infiniti and this car. All I needed was to buy $10 of plastic concentric rings to make my 10" rims and drag radials fit. Keep this in mind if someone has a set of rims from another car which you want. (4.5" fits Subaru STI's as well. I think it's fairly universal).

At this point I'm running about 6-7 lbs boost. I have ordered a set of 1000cc injectors and a JMS Voltage booster for the fuel pump. The vendor (Blow By Racing) is going to retune for this at no charge (!)

I'm looking forward to more. I still visit and lurk often.

BB and Sam: Thanks!

Coop

 

Awesome to see you back in the game (even though it's not a G). Posted my slips on dragtimes and am trying to bump up to that #1 spot.


About to shoot you a PM to ask a couple of questions. Hope all is well!