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They do look difference. Look at the designs near the outside of the bores. That's why dealers replace these rather than rebuild. Nissan can change suppliers so calipers are slightly different but still perform similarly. All dealer cares about is that part # specified in computer is what goes on the car. So long as the pads/mounting holes fit, all is good.
Well that is annoying. Makes it difficult to buy aftermarket parts. I am not having much luck. I might just have to replace the entire caliper. Really annoys me. I did track down my old dealer invoice. They replaced it back in 2014 with part number 19-B2792A for $204.99. But when I search that part, it comes back with a lot of brands and all for the Infiniti models. So nothing that tells me the specific seal info for it.
Dealers will sometimes install the cheaper Infiniti Maintenance Advantage Parts, and other times use the "genuine" parts. This may account for the differences you're seeing.
I am starting to re-assemble things this weekend on my 2009 G37XS (for the purposes of the brakes, just think of it as an X because it does not have the Brembo brakes.. I just finished looking up the torque specs for the bolts I am installing and I was wondering if someone else could give me a sanity check. Here is the information I have so far...
Caliper slide pin with rubber bushing -- read a lot of posts saying it goes on bottom but the service manual shows it on top for both front and back
Make sure the bleeder screw is on top as people have gotten the wrong caliper in the box. (I ended up buying rear brake calipers)
***Put matching marks on the wheel hub and bearing assembly and the disc rotor before removing the disc rotor*** <--- I saw this in the manual. I pulled the rear rotors when I had the calipers off to look at the parking brake assembly. I did not make marks before doing this. In thinking about it, I am assuming this is done because in theory...or maybe I should say in reality... the wheel hub is not in perfect alignment, and so the rotor wears imperfectly, and if I don't install it how it was, then depending on how off the wheel hub it the rotor will now be out of whack? Maybe I can figure out the position it was in based on the rust patterns on the wheel hun and the inside of the rotor.
Everything was going well until I tore a seal trying to install the piston. I should have spent $3 more and gotten an extra. Now I have to wait until Tuesday. <sigh> What I did finish looks pretty good so far. I will likely never do this again. Just too much damn effort. But I did learn a lot.
I saw you used Rock, but specifically AC Delco makes kits which might address your oddball caliper. They have quite a lot, although you'd have to dig deeper to confirm fitment.
I tore a boot as well, but worse, it was for my Stoptechs on my old G35. That made it much more expensive and slower to get a replacement.
You have clearly spent a lot of time rebuilding the calipers, well done.
Brakes are all finished. Bleeding them was an adventure. I used a pressure bleeder I got a few years back from Motive and I think the bleeder valves were sometimes allowing air to enter through the threads maybe as I would sometimes get a constant stream of bubbles that seemed to never end. Then I would close the valve and open it again to see no air bubbles and only a steady stream of brake fluid. I went around about 3 times to be sure. I also had a little bottle with a one way valve and a length of tubing that fit the bleeder nipple very snugly. It worked great. Glad I am finished with that project. Now to just see how long it all lasts. Curious if the front calipers that I rebuilt and painted will look better over time than the rear calipers which I bought painted.
Just a quick note. I do a lot of track driving and I have a Motive power bleeder as well, and what we've found (my friends as well as the race shop which supports our habit) is the old-fashioned pumpy-pumpy two person bit bleeds out air better than a pressure bleeder -- your foot gives more pressure than the Motive bottle can provide. Basically, I use the Motive system to push a pint of fresh fluid through the brakes each season to remove the fluid that has been thermally stressed at each caliper, and then do the pumping method with two people to give the firmest pedal.
